Does landscape rock/gravel compact soil?
ahappy camper zone10
6 years ago
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Comments (11)
ahappy camper zone10
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Path: Thin layer of crushed gravel on compact clay?
Comments (13)I just think you would find that that construction method does not hold up--especially for heavy-ish objects on wheels.The fact that it would be over the compacted clay affects how the path handles water and so the thin layer that you describe will not necessarily compact together properly, as I understand it. So one point might be, if you are just trying to have a path that has some gravel showing here and there and you like the texture combo rather than just hardpacked dirt, it may be that no special kind of gravel is needed because--and I am not an expert here--you have bypassed the construction methods that promote the behavior of DG as packing and interlocking particles. If you were just aiming for a footpath to avoid mud, I would say that it is possible to make informal stepstone or paver paths with less rather than more preparation than is often recommended--again that is allowing for lower expectations for aesthetics and stability; but for rolling wheelbarrows and garbage cans, you need more width than a step-stone type path. Maybe it is because I take to heart your proposed dimensions--1/4-1/2 inch thick is not very much! I believe that some apparently well-worn hiking trails actually have additional gravel added over time for this very reason. Plus if you have hiked after a rain and after the park rangers have driven through you will see the ruts with standing water and mud. One concern I have is that adding the very thin layer may actually change the clay to be more of a weed substrate than before, because now the soil may become more porous and aerated instead of being relatively inhospitable. When you say "easy to hoe," I think, hoeing is so disruptive, it will make it worse, and then how does it end up looking better than just a beaten path? But what I hear you saying is, you would like the look of a gravel-ish path. So maybe if your expectations for better function are low and you like the aesthetics of a gravel-ly path, it is right for you. This is a long way of saying I have not made a path like this with good long-term results....See MoreCovering soil of indoor plants with rocks or gravel? OK or not OK?
Comments (12)" I thought the Cactus Miracle Gro mix was the perfect type and designed for this specifically..." I used to think that too. At the risk of sounding like a fanatic: Miracle Grow cactus soil is basically potting soil consisting of mainly peat moss (as opposed to plain peat or peat humus, which is even worse), and a tiny bit of perlite, with some added sand. Sand will make it heavier and gloppier (sorry for the technical terms). The particles are too small for them to really make it faster draining, plus it does hold some water. It has been said that larger ingredients (like perlite, pumice, etc.) need to make up at least half of the mix if there's peat moss, in order for them to effectively increase drainage and especially porosity (giving roots more air). But what I find interesting is that even African Violet growers recommend 1/2 perlite and 1/2 potting soil. Many people who grow succulents use that, but watering needs to be done very carefully, as in not too much. I don't really know how Miracle Grow, Schultz, Scotts (all of which I've used), and the others can market that as cactus and succulent soil. That's not a reflection on L Evve, I'm just saying. I've gone through all of that. I've stopped using peat moss at all for all cactus and most succulents, but if I was using a peat moss based soil with ceramic pots and also top dressing, and all I had was perlite and 'potting soil', I would use at least 60-70% perlite. Then you need to water over the sink or into a pan or whatever, because a dish below the pot won't be able to hold what a thorough watering would release out of the bottom. Again, I realize we might sound like fanatics, but I can assure you everybody who grows these plants is like us, not necessarily the no-peat-moss part, but the importance of a free draining mix. Here is an example of a peat moss and sand based mix in a plastic pot with pebbles as top dressing: I did drastically prune the top branches but the bottom part is rotted with no roots left. (In another thread I said I wasn't going to describe all that I did wrong, but I'll sacrifice one for the team.) I really didn't think I was watering it too much. I found this out recently as I'm gradually repotting almost everything. So I'm learning too. Sorry for the long off-topic post. I thought this might be beneficial....See MoreDo I need to compact the soil before putting rocks?
Comments (1)No need to tamp. You could spray weed killer first, lay landscape fabric, and then your rocks and it will work for a while. Eventually weeds grow up through the fabric and/or on top of the fabric in the dust/debris/dirt that blows in. Nothing is perfect. At our current house, the owners had TARPS laid in flower beds. Tarps as in very very heavy woven/vinyl material. Weeds and whatnot grow on top of the tarps in the mulch. 🙄...See MoreDIY PEA GRAVEL CACTUS GARDEN and WALKWAY - LANDSCAPE FABRIC?
Comments (18)Thanks everyone for the helpful input! I was leaning to not using the fabric, now I feel more confident in my decision. Yes, I think for the gravel pathway surface between the pavers and the planter boxes, where it will see more foot traffic, I'm looking for a very hard, compacted surface made up smooth pea gravel mixed with some fines and compacted into either drain gravel or base rock. Our local nursery has this surface, and it looks like pea gravel, maybe mixed with blue fines, compacted into road base. Towards the dry garden, I agree with either bigger gravel but I definitely thought it'd be looser. I have been thinking about what gravel material layers to use for back garden and now the front pathway for about a year! Pro landscapers tell me Decomposed Granite is what I want, but it will carry into house and scuff up floors, and does not drain well, etc. So thats why I'm thinking blue pea gravel as its aligned to our aesthetic wont track in as easily and scuff. I also want a hard surface that drains well and does not pool water, hence me wanting to use drain rock under pea gravel. it feels like DG would stick to your shoes when wet and track and pea gravel wont as its not sandy like that DG. I think Ill do a square foot test - gravel into base rock, or gravel and fines into drain gravel. As for the raw clay soil prep for plants, yes I totally agree with needing a wider hole and or mound, especially in hard clay. The way I usually plant in ground into our hard clay, is dig a hole 3 times bigger than potted plant, then fill the whole 1/3 with 50/50 mix of clay soil and cactus/succulent mix form Hardware Store ( amended mix) . then fill the rest with 100% cactus/succulent mix, mulch on top and superficial pea gravel for cover. Some quick screengrab examples and my updated layers plan...See Moreahappy camper zone10
6 years agoahappy camper zone10
6 years ago
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