You need a lot more information to design the header. Roof pitch and snow loads right off the bat. Header span tables are all over the place. The problem is in knowing how to compute the loads.

Ya'll - animals on the furniture - GROSS!!! Apologies of course, my long haired German Shepherd is 110 pounds so would never be allowed on the furniture in the first place. I did buy a new sofa last year from Hickory White and back pillows sagged terribly. Complained, eventually new ones were sent out. (Had three pillows, received 5 of totally different dimensions, sent all back). Round 2 - has worked out fairly well. In hindsight, I think I could have stuffed the existing pillows with new material. Best of luck. If sofa is fairly new, hope you can contact the MFR and get new ones sent out.

Anny - be careful with heat and Engineered Stone - if enough heat is used in the same spot for enough time - scortching (sp) will occur. I have even seen Engineered Stone burn when it was hit with a MAP-GAS torch - but the guy was trying to get it to burn.... MY BEST PROFESSIONAL (FREE) ADVICE TO YOU IS AS FOLLOWS: Do NOT pay the balance UNTIL YOU ARE HAPPY!!!! This should not have happened in the first place, and YOU should NOT have to follow around a paid professional - with a level to double check his work, but sadly, this is where the "quality" in craftsmanship has deteriorated into "the lowest bidder" mentality in our present culture. Not saying that you went with the lowest bidder mind you, but unfortunately, What President Reagan said years ago about the Russians - "Trust but Verify" - now applies to many more things in our world.... As far as Caesarstone goes - It's one tuff material whe it comes to breakage. I have seen whole pieces dropped on the floor - expecting them to shatter into "chunks" - only to insted - see the whole piece BOUNCE, and NOT BREAK!!! Of ALL the products you can use - Engineered Stone (ie- Caesarstone) is one of the best for flexability. Just have your guys be careful if they use a torch to heat up the stone when they are trying to "pop" the seam. Heat applied is OK, but an open flame can lead to damage..... the double ply wood is over kill in my opinion, but you should be fine as long as the layer are 5/8" or thicker.... hth kevin

I'm curious, how did the termite guy jack up that wall? I spent the past couple of days ripping up oak flooring damaged by termites [long before I bought the house]. They ignored the 2x12 fir subfloor, came up through the cracks, and feasted on the oak. Many of the boards I pulled up looked and felt fine on top, but the underside was half-gone or more. There's really no good way to evaluate how extensive the damage is and how much it will cost to fix other than to start pulling up the boards and see how bad it is. If it's a conventional foundation, you can crawl under there and have a look to see it there is visible damage to the framing and subfloor. Starting around those dents, poke around with a screwdriver to see if there are other areas of softened flooring. An experienced flooring installer can pry out the damaged wood, install new in their place, and [with a little luck] stain to match the rest of the room. Or it may be necessary to sand and stain the entire room. Good luck.