Not so much an opinion, it is what i do if i do not want to repot. The last orchid that had this treatment was Lc. Ecstasy 'Orchidglade' found in bud in my shade-house. Now that it has finished blooming it will do nothing till spring, so it will have to remain it a pot within a pot till then. (autumn here) Now what happens if you have a pot within a pot and do nothing for a year or so ....well i have to report that it will continue to grow happily and even bloom nicely but the day of reckoning is coming so i will have to cut away bits of pot and unscramble an overgrown mess of a plant in spring. Best flowering ever of my Cattleya Chocolate Drop seedling. So you have to interpret what is written here by various posters and apply it to your growing situation. Sorry, i do not know what time of the year Lc. White Spark 'Panda' blooms. If you have enough "cattleyas" there will always be something in bloom with perhaps Autumn being peak blooming period and early summer being the leanest time for blooms.

Are you sure it's mold and not mealy bugs? I am dealing with a mealy bug problem and at first glance I thought it was white mold too on my Phals.

> Potting is one of the most complicated subjects in bonsai. > Many newcomers to the hobby make the mistake of putting a tree into a bonsai pot before it's ready. > If you are putting a tree into a training pot and are not going to root prune you can slip pot just about anything most of the time. This is simply placing the root ball in another pot which may or may not be larger. > Root pruning and repotting a root bound plant will refresh it and cause it to put out fresh growth. > Once again you must know what type of tree you have. Some trees grow so fast they must be root pruned and repotted yearly. Others may need it every other year or some exceptionally slow growers every 3-5 years. > Generally, tropicals are best repotted and root pruned during the hottest part of the year when they are actively growing. > Repot most temperate climate woody trees just before bud break or when they first start showing fresh white root growth. Usually this is accomplished in the early spring. Some species can also be repotted in late fall. > When repotting a finished bonsai, the general practice is to remove one half to two thirds of the old soil and prune one third to one half of the roots. The tree is then replaced in the same pot. > You should prune foliage from the tree when you remove roots. Pruning a comparable amount will save stress on the tree. For example, if you remove 1/3 of the roots, top prune 1/3 of the foliage. > It may be easier to prune the foliage while the tree is still in its pot. > Have everything you need at hand before you begin, tools, soil, pot, screen and wire. > Do not do this in the bright sun light or the roots may dry out. > Pull the plant out of the pot and attempt to untangle the roots. Some people use a root comb or even a fork will do. > The roots should be trimmed all around so the tree will fit back in the container with fresh potting mix. Try to spare as many of the small, fine roots as you can. These smaller roots are more efficient at taking up water that the tree will need after the pruning. > Place a shallow layer of fresh soil in the bottom of the pot and set the root ball on it. Pour more soil around the roots, tamping it into place. > Check the soil for air pockets. It can sometimes be hard to get soil to fill all crevices between the roots. One method is to manipulate a chopstick or wooden skewer between the roots to make the soil spill down. > If you did not cut back the foliage yet, do so now. > Water the tree thoroughly. This will settle the tree into the new soil. > The tree should be anchored in the pot some way so that the wind does not move it around in the soil. > The tree should be placed in a semi-shaded location for two weeks. > Do not ferilize until you see new growth.

Since your in MN and spring weather is just hitting with the snow finally leaving, there are a few things you can do as the sun starts to be out longer and temps warm up. First priority would be getting on the leaves and sticks out of the yard so it's not smothering the turf. Depending how many leaves/sticks this could be done a few ways. You might need to stick to rakes and blowers instead of a mow and bag. Either way, once the yard is cleaner take a look at the ground, it might be so compact and shady that just throwing seed down won't help much. If you're really serious about getting fuller and thicker turf, you might be be best having a local company that takes care of turfs recommend a course of action for you which could include spring aeration and seeding, and maybe fertilizer. If the soil isn't to bad though it might just need some seed and maybe some fertilizer. It's still relatively early landscaping season in MN, the grass just turned green here in central Iowa within the last two weeks. So you should be able to do some work to get things looking better before grasses really start to kick in.