Wood floors in entry level homes is unusual, so take a look at your neighbors and see what they have. You'll probably see a lot of laminate, carpet, and vinyl. Those are entry level materials for most of the country. AR has many different communities though, and a 130K home in some rural communities would be more a middle of the road home than an entry level, so that's why I say look at what your neighbors have. You don't want to spend money to upgrade beyond what they've done, unless it is specifically for a health issue. You'd be doing that as an expense, not a recoupable "upgrade". No amount of upgrades will take an entry level home in an entry level neighborhood to a mid grade home. So, save your money on that front. With your requirements, porcelain tile would come the nearest to satisfying all of your requirements. Perhaps something that looks like natural slate or even wood would be better in appearance though than the generic beige tile that you currently have. Putting down washable throw rugs for some warmth in the winter months can soften the tile, but it will be really nice and cool in the longer cooling season of the summer. Tile is also something that a novice DIYer can develop some skills and do the install themselves and save some money. Labor is always the biggest component, so that's an important consideration when considering replacing all of your flooring.

The very same hardwood you have now if at all possible. There is no better answer, and then add area rugs in whatever look , sty;e, color and size you want or need. Don't add a fake wood anything, don't add tile to the mix. Repeat the wood .

Ma and Pa hardwood flooring stores have decades of experience. They will not sell junk because junk costs them money. They *should have installers on staff (because this is where you make your money) and with decades of knowledge about your area (location) your house type (build type as well as age) and micro climate. These are all SUPER important when it comes to understanding what works (in your situation) and what doesn't (normally) work. In theory they will steer you towards an appropriate material for your setting. It isn't fool proof, but it does mean you are getting a better shot at getting it right. Purchasing product AND labour from the same place means you have, in theory, a one-stop-shop. That means if something goes wrong with EITHER the material OR the labour, you only have one place to point the finger. You would be amazed how many times homeowners purchase the material and someone installs it only to find the installation VOIDED every warranty available. The store (the place that sold the material) can't do a thing for the homeowner. All they can do is tell you to take it up with installer. Of course the installer no longer answers the phone or has blanked the people that have issues with their work. Very frustrating. Longevity depends on how often a product can be 'refinished'. Stone = hundreds of years because it can be refinished dozens of time (mosaics found in the seaside port of Ostia outside of Rome = 2000 - 3000 years old). Solid hardwood = 60 - 100 years of service because they can be refinished 2-4 times. Engineered hardwood (with 3mm - 6mm wear layer) can have a life span of 50 - 80 years of service (2-3 refinishes). Linoleum (real linoleum not the fake stuff known as 'vinyl') can have a life span of 80 years because it requires waxing or polishing. The polish takes the abuse and the linoleum itself is left in tact. In other words you 'refinish' the polish on it dozens of times throughout it's life time. LVP = zero refinishes. Laminate = zero refinishes. Ceramic and Porcelain tile = zero refinishes (but can serve for 40+ years). And the flooring company that will NOT deal with moisture? Not a good sign but not unheard of. If they find moisture readings that are 'bad' enough for them to stop the installation, you will be on the hook to find a moisture mitigation company or wet slab company that will seal the slab. You will pay for that as an extra (which you would have to do anyway). And then you will pay for the slab to be leveled (which you would have to do anyway). It just means an extra step...which is ONE MORE person that is involved if there is a 'finger pointing contest'. The more people you can point the finger at, the less likely you will get someone (anyone) to step up and say, "We made a mistake. Our treatment didn't work. We owe you a new floor." A one-stop-shop is optimal because if something goes wrong, there is only ONE PERSON you can point a finger at. It is much simpler.

I have a similar situation in a Jack and Jill bath. It's narrow and the vanities are a 1980s light beige cultured marble. I wanted a light gray LVT but couldn't find one that would tie in with the brown tone. Coreluxe just introduced one called pewter travertine. It is mostly light gray with a little bit of beige. LL flooring (Lumber Liquidators) has it on sale (slightly) for $1.89 per sq ft until August 17th. https://www.llflooring.com/p/coreluxe-4mm-w-pad-pewter-travertine-waterproof-rigid-vinyl-plank-flooring-12.01-in.-wide-x-24-in.-long-10051042.html