Correct veggiecanner. That's what I was trying to convey in the first post. Exactly what varieties of vegetables are you wanting to start in these 288 cell trays? Again, I find them useful for things that do not need to be repotted, but rather planted directly into the ground as soon as they come up. Otherwise it's simply a waste of my time to keep repotting. Using a Plug System " ...most growers are using 32 four-connecting-cell units to fit in a 128-cell plug tray for seedling propagation (Fig. 12). At transplanting, four young seedlings in a four-cell unit are planted directly into the soil and left to grow. This method has a similar cropping time and final yield as the system using 288-cell plugs. However, it reduces the labor cost by more than 30%. " zeedman 5, They're actually ok for certain types of peppers, onion, and tomatoes because they are slow starters. You certainly wouldn't want to plant most melons in such a cell because they grow so fast. wayne_5, Plug trays have their place. If commercial growers time it so that they can get a head start and sell them at the proper stage of growth so as not to be stunted, then it's fine. But there is very little room in the 288 count tray for one seedling. It is best they be moved as soon as the first set of true leaves start to show. Same for 392, 406, 512 and other cell tray counts higher than 488. Most commercial growers diligent and on tight schedules. They may start in high count cell trays, but they also repot as soon as the first set of true leaves start to show/are forming. There are different depths as well. 4 inch deep cell trays are going to be better than the shallow trays. It is absolutely essential that if you start seeds in such small cells that they be moved ASAP to larger containers or planted out when the true leaves are forming (after the cotyledons) - otherwise growth will be stunted for a dramatically lower yield. Pick them up by the leaves - not the stem - which is the more fragile than the leaves. If you doubt this, try it yourself by planting some out on time, and waiting a week or two or more to plant more out. Document their growth and yield. Growing Vegetable Transplants In Plug Trays Transplant Performance Research (Impact of Transplant Age and Cell Size) Plug and Transplant Production for Organic Systems

CC, anything with 2 inches of soil is at risk of problems, 3-4 inches is the way to go. As for your pan that your containers are in, you run a very high risk of water logging the soil, rotting the seeds, rotting any roots that are there from any germination that you get. You may think that you can check your containers all the time, but so many things get in the way that you will find a time that you just can't do it. The containers won't drain and you are in trouble. Also, those containers with non clear covers are not going to work either. Many seeds require light to germinate and are surface sown, others will need the warmth of sun, while they are covered with soil to warm the soil and germinate. Non clear covers will not allow the sun in to the container and if, you do get any germination in those containers, you will not be able to see them and will cook them with non clear covers. Do you get any snow, sleet, freezing rain in your area? If so, then that moisture will be collected in the tray and you will have problems draining it from the pan. That lasagna pan is a good one to use for WS. Just put lots of drainage holes in the bottom, fill it with soil and cover with glad press and seal. you can hold down the press and seal with cheap wooden clothes pins from the dollar store for added ability to hold the press and seal on. put slits in the press and seal and put that out. I use them all the time in the early spring to sow annuals in. As for checking the "babies" all the time. My containers will be buried in snow for the winter and I will be trudging through snow to put out more of them all winter. Once they are out there, I'm not checking on anything before the snow is gone from the ground. I know from experience that there will be no germination before the last week in March at the very earliest, but that would be earlier for you in your zone. Now if you want to use something to contain your soda bottles, you could use some of those crates that can be purchased for storage. They have drainage in them, and will not hold water, but will keep your containers nice and upright in them. Fran

Hi Roberta... Your question is good..however...us "pros" use plug trays in many ways. FIrst, it depends on the size of the plugs...for instance, I use 501's- that means there are 501 tiny cells per tray. Those would be for things with super tiny seed...begonias, petunias ect. It is unlikely you are using those though. There are many, many sizes. My guess is you have 72's or, perhaps 35's. Does not really matter..the answer to your question about soil is what you need. Use the BEST stuff you can find, a soiless mix (all peat based). The best thing you can do is pop into a greenhouse and ask if they will sell you a bag of their mix(it is a commercial blend sold to growers, many different brands). It should cost you about 15-20 dollars. It will be a big bag, not to worry, you will use it all. They may also only have it as a compressed bale...'bout 35 bucks. The soil you use in a plug tray is the most important thing. Yes, plug trays are easier to use and save a lot of space. The top-notch soil mix will pay off in everything you plant. It is very worth your time to find this stuff. BTW..yes, there are specific mixes that can be bought for plug production but you do not need this. You need the all purpose greenhouse mix. Your other question...I used to live in Rockford and was a grower there too. I got smart and moved to the land of sun (TEXAS!) but I remember well the schedual for perennials. I assume you plan to sell them as green plants. If you had a greenhouse it would not be to early to plant but since you are doing this in your house, the light levels will be way to low and your seedlings will probably stretch and be a sickly mess in very short order. If it were me, I would wait until March or so to get started. This way you can at least be moving your trays out into better light on warm days. A better way is to start your seedlings in the mid-summer and winter them over (once dormant, a garage will do pretty well to protect them). As spring comes around, you simply bump them up to a bigger container and you will have blooming plants to sell (at much higer prices). Growing stuff in Illinois is frustrating this time of year- even when you have a greenhouse. The quality of light is just so poor. I hope this helps a little....your questions are actually rather big and I know I only have touched on the answers. Hang in there- Tim

I leave them in the plug trays until they appear to be root bound - need watering almost daily. I let me peas go three weeks and thought they had filled the plugs (200-cell) but when I transplanted them I had to be very careful or the roots would separate from the mix. IME, it is nearly impossible to overwater them, if you water from the bottom. I have (stupidly!) forgot about a tray of plants in a tub of water, gone back the next morning to find a soaking tray. Remove it, let it drain and it is good to go. Mike