Yes you have a courtyard full of dirt. Everything about your post says the courtyard needs to be paved. Get a sketch pad and lay out some floor plans that leave you some planting beds to play with. If you are up to it, paving the courtyard can be DIY.

I may be wrong but from your photo, there only appears to be 2 plants worth saving: your fig & the tree on the opposite side. I would suggest that you remove all of the other plants, level the area and pave it with a nonslip tile to harmonize with your existing tile. To liven it up a bit, install the tiles on a diagonal. Place the 2 plants ( if you are able to salvage them) in oversized self watering planter pots. beef up the outdoor lights to larger funky California Mission style fixtures and add some more comfortable outdoor furniture that invites relaxation. If it looks to spare after that adda few more plants or maybe a water feature. It is a small space so try to balance welcoming with overcrowded. Here's a few suggestions for inspiration!

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What about a large fountain in the middle of a small herb garden, and some fragrant climbing roses frame the porch and drap over the wall..........

Some climbing rose ideas: https://www.gardenclinic.com.au/how-to-grow-article/rose-by-rail?pid=44213

Consider using pea gravel (with a good strong underlayment fabric) and setting your stone paths in it. Then use pots for any plants you add. Pots of plants will look nice on the steps and porch too.

This gravel would almost match your steps, porch and stepping stones.

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1. I "second" Christopher's suggestion to draw out the base plan for the area ASAP (and post it), and begin to explore paving layout options on copies of that plan. (Or on tracing paper over a plan.) Forget about planting until the paving scheme is ironed out. Keep in mind that the paving is also a landing for the steps. In general, a landing will be as wide as the steps, or in some cases wider. Rarely, probably only in some freaky circumstance, is the landing going to be narrower than the bottom step. Complying with the norm is going to dictate that a large portion of the courtyard ends up being paved. The landing would probably narrow as it transitions to the gated wall, allowing room for planting space. I can't see your total space (all in one piece) but it seems like it might end up being 75% paving area and 25% planting area, or something not horribly far off of that. But this is not a bad thing. The primary purpose of the space is as an entrance approach to the house. Seating along the path, since the space is partially enclose, seems like a good idea, and it will require paving.

3. In the end, there is no need at all to have any dirt showing. If a square inch of space is not paved, it should be planted such that it is covered with some type of foliage. You should have groundcover at all spaces which do not have larger plants filling them.

some ideas

Doug, very nice! You forgot about climbing roses though. :-)

Paving in the majority of the space and introducing urns/pots would be the logical choice. I'm partial to turf panel courtyards, even if it means going the artificial route. Good luck with your project.

When you get to that point, consider succulent groundcovers. Water usage is a big issue, and could become a bigger issue. And oh my they can look good.

Some real life California inspiration photos with a variety of styles...

Natural stone cut for paving. Notice the plants used have varying heights and low water needs.

If you are interested in a more exuberant garden and enjoy working in the garden, go for it. Many people don't have the time or energy to maintain such a garden, but it sure is attractive. This looks like poured concrete pavers with wood spacers (which will begin to deterorate after about 20-25 years).

In this photo the natural stone has dichondra or prostrate thyme growing between the pavers As lovely as it is, resist the urge to install such a large water feature. It will use up too much space and use too much water. A small pot fountain will be more appropriate. Note the tree and the lower plantings, some chosen for shade, others for more sun, depending on sun exposure.

The right kind of gravel would be an option as well. Not pea gravel, the other kind which I can never remember the name of. Chipped stone? Crushed stone?

How many hours of sun will the courtyard get in winter and summer? I sense this may be on the north side of the arches, is that correct?

Neoregelia bromeliads, Alpinia zerumbet, certain succulents (Echeveria 'afterglow' for example), blue fescue ornamental grass, mint, philodendron 'xanadu', papyrus, Russellia equisetiformis, fuschias, Thunbergia battiscombei, Alcantarea imperialis, Rhapis palm (grows well in a pot - variegated is stunning), certain smaller Chamaedorea palms, many many choices. Choose a 'look' based on one or two plant choices and a good nursery (not a big box) can help you choose plants that will grow in beautiful harmony with your theme plants.

The sketch you drew looks ok. It would be better if you made it to scale listing measurements.

The Cycad type plant does need to go, it is blocking the most direct line to the door. Other than that I think it is hasty to say that none of the other plants can still be useful. Plants look best in groupings. You have two ferns just placed randomly. If you bought another and planted all all three near that fountain that could be a good look.

How did you choose the location for the fountain? Is it so you can see it from the window? Fountains need to have water added periodically. Is there a hose near there?

I would consider removing the small bit of path in front of the gate. I think it would be better in the new paving material.

I'm wondering if anyone else thinks it would be a good idea to widen the path area so the paving extended to the outer edge of the short columns.

kiminpl- Thank you for the response and questions.

The courtyard doesn't get any direct sun.

The leafless plant in the corner is a fig tree. What's funny is that its is placed in a fountain that was filled with dirt. The previous owners decided that the water feature in that corner doesn't work, so they filled that with dirt and planted the fig tree inside. Needless to say, that water feature and fig tree can all go.

Yes, the driveway is outside the gate and the archway leads to the front door.

There is no water spigot in the courtyard but there is irrigation.

Im really considering natural stone for my courtyard too.

The cyads? That is actually a Sago tree and I like it but not in that location in the courtyard. I'm thinking of replanting it elsewhere (not in courtyard). I'm looking for something lower maintenance.

Yes, I do want a small water feature.

Thanks Dig Doug designs for drawing out the courtyard. Definitely agree with most of the responses that paving the courtyard is the best option and the picture you drew shows a great visual of a paved courtyard. I like that fountain as well in the picture. I even like the potted plant on the step.

kris -- sounds like you have a concept and are on track. Will you have to bust out the old fountain? I hope you will post photos when the paving is done. Good luck with your project!

P.S. The Sago tree, or Sago palm as it is often called, is in the cycad family. The botanical name for that species is Cycas revoluta.

I like the Sago. Could it go in front yard just outside the courtyard wall?

1. These comments have nothing to do with planting. Until the hardscape portion of the project is figured out, planting specifics have no real meaning. Planting is subordinate to hardscape and will accommodate it, however it ends up.

3. There is sometimes an impulse to overreact to the way something is -- no paving & lots of dirt -- and go to an opposite extreme -- nearly complete paving and very little room for plants. While the plan that you sketched, Kris, would work, it seems to be more paving than you need for the uses that will occur, and a shortage of space for plants to really reach their potential. My experience with small spaces is that more often than not inches matter. While in normal conditions it is common to have landings that are wider than the bottom step, in this situation, doing that at the right side (as you face the house) means that you shrink the width of the already not-too-deep planting space ... the space between the paving edge and wall behind it. Instead, I'd match the paving edge with the step end.

5. Where the paving approaches the gate, it seems suddenly not spacious if that last leg -- like a gangplank -- is limited to the exact width of the gate. It would seem a lot nicer if there was some extra space at each side of the gate. I'd make the paving there line up with the outer edges of the pilasters that flank the gate.

7. Your plan indicates a water feature centered in the planting space at the left side of the patio, with a corresponding "notch" carved out of the patio. It seems a little "busy" to me to create the notch and squished planting spaces that are fore and aft of the fountain (as viewed from the patio). In this tight space, I think I'd be looking instead at a one-sided water feature placed at the back of the planting space, against the wall of the house. There are many such water features that have some kind of a pouring vessel (or head) that empties into a trough in front. An example is the pouring wine jar that empties into a pool. Another would be a lions head or Greek mythological character spewing water from its mouth into a basin. Using such a feature in this small space simplifies planting and eliminates the need for an additional detail at the patio edge. Too, any water feature that allows falling water to sharply hit water in the pool, can be a little loud and splash much farther than anticipated. It's better in a small space to have a water feature that pours smoothly into the basin so there is less splashing and noise.

9. The overall rectangular shape & size of the proposed patio does not seem to invite the use of any small tree forms. Consider shrinking the patio square footage to be just large enough to COMFORTABLY accommodate the proposed uses (ingress and egress, and table and chairs.) There is not really any point in going beyond this unless it has some great added visual benefit. To the contrary, I think going beyond it shrinks the potential planting space too much which will end up diminishing the end appearance.

11. Thinking in general about planting to come, Camellia's would make excellent small trees for the space, being able to have their size and form easily controlled.

    

13. My example does not purport to illustrate the only, best possible, or complete solution. It is just A solution that would work according to the suggestions I've made. I'm sure it you could "play" with the geometry and come up with detail alterations if you wanted to alter style. As Emmarene suggested, be sure to draw the plan to exact scale since the space is small and size will matter.

A focal point would work well in this space. Something with some verticality - whether it be a Objet d'art of some kind - or a water feature. Maybe avoid the temptation to connect two side with solid paving and use stepping stones/paver of larger scale maybe surrounded by decorative pebbles.

Variation