Pet bedding in soil killed my plants. Need help amending soil
hoa-ky mai
6 years ago
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Comments (7)
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Soil amendments options for blueberries after soil test?
Comments (2)Don't know about more Miracid, but I just did the calcs for langbeinite for you ... Langbeinite can satisfy two things you need - potassium (K) and magnesium (Mg). Langbeinite is 18.8% K and 11.7% Mg. Your soil tests recommends 140 lbs/ acre Mg and 110 lbs/acre of potash (83%K) which translates to 91 lb/acre of K. For the K: 91 lb K/acre @ 0.188 lbs K/lb langbeinite leads to 485 lbs langbeinite/acre, or for your area ~14 lbs langbeinite For the Mg: 140 lbs Mg/acre @ 0.117 lbs Mg/lb langbeinite leads to 1196 lbs langbeinite/acre, or ~ 34 lbs for your area. If you use langbeinite at the amount needed for Mg, you will be adding about 2.5X as much K as called for. If you wanted to go this route, you might check with the soil lab if that amount added would put you into an excessive situation. In my experience those folks are typically very helpful and welcome calls for guidance based upon a test result. I have a quibble with the amount of Epsom salts they advise based upon their Mg recommendation. If you use the 140 lb/acre Mg needed, that would require 1420 lbs of Epsom salts, not 1270. If you use the 1270 lb rate for Epsom salts (9.86% Mg), you would be adding 125 lbs of Mg, not 140. In the above I used the 140 lb/are rate. In the end, I doubt it makes a lot of difference, but their conversion isn't consistent with the need they state. This post was edited by TXEB on Thu, May 23, 13 at 10:40...See MoreSoil amendments for clay soil in TN
Comments (12)Im not so sure that was the meaning. First clear away any soil that covers up the root flare. Don't be surprised if you find this severely buried under several inches of soil when you get the tree. That is common. Then once you have found the root flare, where the trunk flares out where it meets the beginning of the roots, this is what you want a little above the level of surrounding ground to compensate for settling. The important thing is that the root flare is exposed. If you're starting with a b&b tree, put it in the planting hole so that approximately 10% is sticking out above the surrounding ground, then remove any soil covering the root flare. Adjust the depth of the planting hole if necessary. If you are planting a containerized tree, it is easy enough to expose the root flare prior to planting. Set it so that it's a couple inches above the ground. I don't think I mentioned this before but dig a wide planting hole, preferably 3 times the width of the tree container or soil ball. It doesn't have to be deep but it should be wide. This will loosen up the soil for more rapid establishment and is preferred over amendments....See MoreAmending soil after soil test
Comments (9)Your ph is perfect! Dont use peat moss, for any soil really! :) I would suggest to use good compost. When you have good compost and "living" soil, ph is not an issue, and will further buffer. Reports show with the micro life in the soil from adding compost allow uptake of every single macro and micronutrient even in soils with ph of 8. This was some study I saw somewhere reading around. It was somwhere they farmers never checked the ph or really knew what ph was. They used biochar and ash to fertilize the field. They found the composted manure they where also adding, buffered the high 8.5 ph of the ash that they where so heavily adding! Do you want to stay 100% organic? If so you may want to source all those things you listed-kelp,greensand,ect.. If not just use the funding for compost and some synthetic time release fertilizer or CRF with all needed nutrients- like Osmocote plus. The use of compost and organic material will add and build your soil, and give soil life buffering the ph like I talked about. The synthetic time release will not harm microlife and will cover any missing nutrients. I have some rows I use composted leaves only. I use all purpose miracle gro 24-8-16 when ever I see plants getting green-yellow from N deficiency. This system works great and has yielded me great results this season....See MoreSoil amendments: clay soil, fully planted beds
Comments (16)My first garden was created 5 years ago...we took off the sod, amended with compost, tilled and planted and mulched. It was a nightmare. I probably needed 60 times more compost, and never could have afforded it. The following two years I hated working in the garden because it was such hard work with the clay and many plants didn't thrive. I replanted areas many times and each time I would add more compost/mulch, whatever I could get my hands on. I also added a soil conditioner that was very expensive but works like gypsum...breaks down clay. (Who knows, maybe it WAS gypsum with a bigger price tag.) It's 6 years later now and I have to tell you that the garden is just a delight to work in now. I plan to spread gypsum a couple of times each year and continue mulching the beds, but I'm sure I'll never have to do all that double-digging like I did before....just keep on piling on the stuff like everyone wrote above, and before you know it, your beds will be as you need them to be. I also highly recommend that you search out plants that LIKE clay, so that your plantings will be successful. I spent many, many dollars buying plants that needed more drainage than I had and would die...and I wondered why. Some of those plants might do ok for me now in the same garden, but I think it's important to plant things that actually LIKE the ground that they are in today. Good Luck!...See Morehoa-ky mai
6 years ago
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