Several points, all of which are just one old guys opinion: 1. grass and gdj are right; the problem, if any, would be the transaxle and not horsepower. My 12-hp Deere STX (5-speed) will do what you need - I know because it does the job for me. 2. Slammer's rules aren't completely valid, although they are frequently dragged out and posted: Rule #1. If you determine that you need a 42" deck in order to mow between your trees and get through your back gate, slammer's rule would have you buy a 46" or 48" deck, which really wouldn't serve you for s___. Virtually every lawn tractor manufactured today has more than enough horsepower for your needs, so there's no reason to buy bigger just for the sake of bigger. Rule #2 states that "ergonomics are just as important as performance and capability." Say what? Would you actually want a machine that felt good to your butt, even though it was not capable of performing the job? Performance and capability, along with reliability are necessary; comfort is nice to have. Rule #3 makes some good points, but doesn't take into account that many of us have to compromise over the dollar amount. Sometimes slammer's rule no. 3 is used to justify spending more money. If you've got $1500 to spend, don't let somebody talk you in to going into debt for a $8,000 tractor. Instead, try to determine which $1500 machine will do the job for you. Failing to consider slammer's rules does not mean that you will be "stuck with a piece of junk," or even something that is "inadequate for the task at hand." Nor does it mean that you'll be shopping for a new tractor in a few months. There are some pretty good lawn tractors available for that amount, including units by John Deere and Husqvarna (which also makes Ariens and many Craftsman units.) NOTE: The fellow who claims to have written "slammer's rules" operates a commercial lawn care service. The equipment that he buys will see as much use in one month as a typical homeowner's machine gets in 5 years. His rules might very well apply to a commercial operation, but few (if any) commercial operators come to this forum for advice on buying equipment. As to your specific question about Deere vs Husqvarna. I own both brands. The under $2000 Deeres and similarly priced Husqvarnas are (in my opinion) very close in initial quality. Deere is well known for providing parts support for their equipment for years after a model has been discontinued. Husqvarna is the current owner of the company that has been known as Roper, American Yard Products, and Electrolux; they have been in business for many years, and seem to support their products pretty well, too. John Deere dealers usually sell the small lawn tractors for the same price as the box stores, as do Husqvarna dealers. I recommend buying from your local dealer, if you have one. Finally, I pull an AgriFab core aerator, weighted down with concrete blocks and 50 lbs of bagged fertilizer with my gear-drive John Deere and also with a Husqvarna that has a Tuff Torq K46 hydrostatic transmission. I'm a homeowner, so my total aerating time is about 3 hours a YEAR. Both of these machines are LAWN tractors, not GARDEN tractors; as such, they are primarily for mowing, but I do pull the aerator and, at times, a small garden cart. Whatever you buy, it is very important that you perform the maintenance recommended in your owner's manual, particularly cleaning/changing the air filter, changing oil & filter, greasing, removing clippings from the engine and transmission, and maintaining tire air pressure.

I can only comment on the Bluestar RNB, which seems not to be a front-runner for you. But as you ask about the hot doors . . . it just has not been any sort of problem for us. The door gets very warm under certain conditions, and you might be surprised if you were to fall against it with palms flat. Surprised, but not injured at all -- our door just doesn't get hot enough to burn somebody. Moreover, if I'm baking, or roasting (or braising, etc.) while working at the range, I'm not especially aware of heat coming through the door at all. And the oven door handle stays just fine -- don't need a potholder to open the door at all. Our two younger kids had just turned 9 when we bought the range and I'd had similar questions, and had them resolved before we bought place our order. They've never had problems getting getting burnt, and neither has our small dog. Of course other kids may be younger, and things happen, but I don't see a danger from the door itself. With our range, a little kid could fall against the glass door, or poke it with a finger while looking at cookies, and not be injured at all. Startled, perhaps, but not injured. The far more significant risk seems to me to be common to any range at all: little kids need to know that a stove is not a toy, but something to be careful about. They need to know that they oughtn't to go crashing into it or leap up and grab things. They need to know that whether you buy a BS, or CC, or NXR, or GE, or a 20 year-old whirlpool from a garage sale. An open flame is an open flame; a hot coil is a hot coil; and a pot full of boiling water can scald anybody.

We also have a plain vanilla ranch built in 1950. It was never MCM nor any style. It was just churned out as a tract home. The basic layout of bedrooms and living space was ok, but we opened the wall between the kitchen and living room, extended and moved the kitchen so the old kitchen is half of the new one and partly as our new main level laundry room. The rest of the kitchen is part of the extension and is adjacent to the new den we added on. Due to budget constraints, we only cathedraled the new extensions' ceilings and the master bedroom ceiling was vaulted as we extended there too. Where we did not raise the ceilings we added in skylights and a 5ft eyebrow window in the front of the house, boxed in like a skylight (and we have a skylight over the den up high). The greater amount of natural light is fabulous and it feels so much more spacious with the openings for the skylights and eyebrow window. We had hated the all low ceilings when we moved in. Our previous house had vaulted and cathedral ceilings over the living spaces and it was hard to adjust to low and flat. I truly think that being able to raise the ceilings and/or use skylights is one of the best features about a ranch. Since the house was built with little style and updated with no style either (unless cheap and ugly are styles, lol), we felt free to create our own vibe. We went for retro modern with a 40s feel. What a modern person would have done prior to MCM is how I'd describe it. It has some deco feel to it but the lines are simple and not ornate. Crown moldings would not have worked, so we have done simpler ones. We chose modest looking but well designed materials. No one would ever think it is fancy or frilly. We wanted clean lines but not sharp edges. It is supposed to feel homey and unassuming. Like a well worn pair of jeans that fit well. We want guests to feel at home. If you come up with your own style mission statement you can check your choices against it. At one point, we fell in love with white marble and wanted that for our counters. Then one day, we figured out it went against all our other choices and was too elegant. We ended up with Corian in their Rain Cloud pattern, which mimics the feel of a white marble, but is not trying to fake anyone out. It has a softness to the look but with all straight lines and an eased edge profile, it looks neat. We ended up with Carrera marble in our master bathroom for the counter and in the faux rug part of our floor. That space is meant to be more grown up and fancy since it is our private space and not designed for the kids. The veins that make it great there would have been too busy for the kitchen. If we had gone for another look, I'd have loved to use the marble as I usually drool when I see it used anywhere. If I ever do a kitchen again, I would want qs oak with white marble or some other medium toned stained wood. The door style would be different as well. We are happy with our vision and how the look has turned out (the gc screwed us on condition, but that will be fixed, someday). It is not plain vanilla any more! Our house looks like no other in our area and I dare say, it is now one of a kind. Hopefully, you find your groove and your end result reflects your style and vision, and makes you smile too ;)

The pictures I posted above all have oak flooring. I am unsure of the first two because they are stained as to whether they are red oak or white. I believe the third picture, which is from a 2016 This Old House project, is probably white oak. White oak is what I am seeing in many new design pics. It probably cost a little more than red oak. I don't know if natural white oak would work or not because it is very light but you can always bring home some samples and see what you think. I know the more rustic looking brown with a touch of gray is big and again, get some samples and set them in front of the door. However, avoid trendy looking flooring - especially the gray weathered look - that is a passing trend. You have a 70's home which is beginning to get "old house" status. For a more timeless style, look to what has stood the test of time in older homes. If you think that is too "old fashion" remember there also have been some very "mod" styles done in older homes too. Just FIY, darker floors show more scratches and dust. Not a problem for some, but other say that though they love them, they will never have a dark floor again. The most forgiving wood floor is a natural tone - shows less scratches and dust. My home is also from the 70's and my trim was dark stained pine (which I painted white.) Dark stained pine is no great wood and while some 70's homes have interesting original features, many don't. Mine was an ode to harvest gold. There were no noteworthy original featured except the two fireplaces which actually are pretty:) We installed solid oak floors - natural on the main floor and a bit darker upstairs. I find they work with many different rugs and styles. They also are one of the more reasonably priced solid wood floors. You might want some stain with your darker doors, though my first home had dark oak doors with a natural oak floor and it worked.