ALthough I'll agree with most of that post, there are a couple of things I don't. First, there IS a big difference between the "high dollar" sealers and Home Depot's Best (Tile Lab). The better sealers will last alot longer. Same thing with the difference between water based and solvent based. The solvent based sealers penetrate much deeper, and as such, last alot longer. One last question-- who makes an unsanded epoxy? Lastly, I don't know what you're calling "tile sealers". The only tile sealers I've ever seen ARE penetrating sealers, also used for sealing stone, and in fact ORIGINALLY meant for sealing stone.

motherof3: I am building a cedar shake cottage style. It is a little more formal then a typical cottage but we are building in southern Maine on the coast. (We only have a ROW) Can't quite afford frontage. This marble is going in our (kids) or guests bathroom. I still say kids even though they are all married and relocated. We are doing a white vanity with bead-board, the honed carrara marble top with undermount white sink and a 12x12 tile in gray with bluish streaks going thru it. I have seen the carrera marble in capes, colonials, and even farmhouses.(I am a retired real estate broker) Now a days I really believe it is do what you like and anything goes.

We are remodeling our kitchen in January and also have a 10 foot island. We have chosen a dolomite marble that is called White Fantasy. In researching this marble, I have found similar marbles called Super White and Shadow Storm. I will try to link a picture of our marble.After doing lots of research on this, I tested a sample with blueberry jam, ketchup, and lemon juice - leaving all on overnight. In the morning, I just washed it off and it looked beautiful. We purchased the stone for the island and countertops and are anxiously awaiting the actual kitchen remodel!! Good luck with your stone!!

kim k: Our Calacatta (Gold) quartzite arrived at the stone yard polished, and DH and I wanted honed tops. To oldryder's point: all the lines, colors, drama, etc. will be more muted once you remove the polish, but that's actually what we wanted. Among the many other issues we had with our installation, the honing/leathering was likewise a disaster. Our fabricator gave us two samples to choose from: honed and leathered (they had plenty of our slab, so prepared samples for us). The leathered sample look very orange peel-y -- lots of small dimples. We opted for the honed, as it was the perfect amount of matte and smoothness. After the installation, I noticed the tops were very gritty, and the veins had a whitish appearance here and there that were not in the sample we received. When I asked the company for the honed sample to compare, it took them a week (or longer) to 'look for it' (to include their coming back to me and asking, "Are you sure our guys took it with us?") before admitting they lost it. At that point, I had no 'proof' to show what the end result was that we'd agreed upon. While they admitted I should end up with a smooth, non-gritty surface, they didn't know where to go from there. They had me contact a regional rep to inquire, and they had me post a query on on the Stone Fabricators Alliance forum (at which point the pros -- as helpful and understanding as they tried to be -- told me to tell my 'guy' to get off their butts and post the inquiry themselves...a customer shouldn't have to do this for a fabricator). We went back and forth for months. They finally agreed to use different brushes and try leathering the tops -- used a sample, and this time, the leathering didn't result in orange peel. I agreed to having them leather (or whatever they wanted to call it) on site. At this point, I can still see grinder 'arc' marks on the tops, but along with so many other issues with the installation, I just settled. Based only on my single experience, I would not recommend having a fabricator (unless old ryder was nearby!) hone the tops -- unless you can go back and point to an example of what the end product should be. Good luck!