I can't really offer much help. I have E. milii, and water it bit more often in warm temps - probably closer to 1x/week (not on any schedule, just when I think it is dry). Maybe you underwatered it to begin with? - roots may have dried up and when you started to water more often and more (volume), maybe they couldn't take in any water.

My plant is now getting much less water, but it is in colder temps. I have 'killed one with kindness' = too much water, before.

Thanks for your reply.

When you overwatered the plant did the stems look similar to those shown in my photos?

In my experience with crotons I've noticed that their leaves wilt from over and under watering, but the cause is still distinguishable; when overwatered the leaves tend to be very flaccid to the touch (they'll drape over a finger like damp paper) and when underwatered they're more rigid despite being angled downward.

The foliage of my crown of thorns more closely represents an overwatered croton, but I have no idea if the two plants are comparable in that way.

It is almost 5yrs since I killed it and unfortunately, I didn't take photo of it when dying. It was variegated plant, here it is when still OK:

I think your description of under- and over-watered leaves is quite correct. Underwatered leaves dry up much faster, feel more crispy/rigid to begin with.

If my plant, I would take it out of soil and check the roots. But I really do not know much about them, maybe another of our members will chime in...perhaps aloebot? or someone else that grows them.

Last year I didn't protect my big Crown of Thorns very well and we received lots if rain. There were many stems that were mushy. I honestly thought last winter was going to kill my plant. Other winters it would drop 90% of it's leaves, but last year it was a mushy nightmare. It bounced back.

How much of the plant is mushy?

I have had one for 4 or 5 years indoors over wintered. Only do I water when the flowers and leaves show signs of wilting and or dropping. You can always do some pruning later as there are plenty of canes.

Kara, the stems do feel softer/squishier than I remember them being, and it's certainly worse closer to the soil. If rot is starting closest to the roots I'm guessing the only way to prune and save it is by rooting some cuttings. Is that correct?

Matt, I don't have a memory of what the wilt looks like when it occurs from underwatering. Is it similar to or distinct from what you see in the photos?

Rina, I'm worried that you may be correct. I've been postponing checking out the roots because the plant is so large and overflowing from the pot... it'll be a bit of a struggle. However, if the stems and leaves don't give clear indications then I should probably suck it up.

I'm 50/50 with your plant. Mine had the same issues as yours last year. Some stems just turned to mush from all the rain and cold, but I just left it and pruned all the bad stems. The plant grew back fine. But if you feel like something is really wrong beneath the surface than by all means take it out of the pot and check:).

Be careful of the white sap that you may encounter. It's toxic so keep away from mucous membranes and skin.

Hold it there, I don't believe the sap on these is a problem. I think Kara you're confusing them w/ another Euph (the Pencil Cactus, E tirucallli, is it?). I would say, beware the spines, some are very sharp.

I handle these bare handed all the time, I suspect Meyer Mike does too. I'd gifted him a white blooming E millii I love & will be getting a cutting back next Spring.

I grow indoors only, but here's a cousin E. miliii v. marlotti

I've never seen E miliii stems look like yours do, I'm sorry to say I think that's sign of trouble. I too would unpot to check the roots. Maybe spread out some newspaper & turn the whole thing out. I'm realizing you may find the roots dried out.

Pls do take some cuttings for safety sake. Work w/ a small cup of water next to you, just drop the newly cut cuttings into the water for a few moments, or mist the stem ends, both of which will stop the sap flow.

I don't have a pic of this plant's mix, but yours doesn't appear to be fast draining, it needs to be porous, larger particled like this (from Ceropegia pots). I use pumice in my mixes, that's the whitish grey pieces you see.

Is your soil hard to the touch? Does it pull away from the edges of the pot? I think your plants are thirsty, I'd give them a big drink, then wait a day to see its response.

cont'd.

I can't speak to Canadian cold, but I grow these year round in NY on top of my AC on windows which get cold in winter, tho' right now, the heat is blasting below the AC. These bloom pix are current, they're in active bloom now.

E miliis are a bit odd.

They're succulents, but they're thirsty & benefit from deep & frequent watering, which doesn't make sense for a succulent. But since I was given the specific advice abt these, to give them more water & fertilizer than one would a succulent, mine are in bloom 9 months of the year.

For your cuttings, pls. use the healthiest looking tips, 3-4" long should be fine.

Pls. check back & tell & or show us what you find on repotting.

Crown of Thorns sap is bad too. I can prune my Euphorbia tirucalli 'Firestick' without gloves and have zero issues, but others get major reactions. My mom gets a rash in minutes. Best to be safe than sorry.

Incase it's helpful, here's a video demonstrating the condition of the leaves:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/skf6wh2m17u191r/File%202018-01-17%2C%2012%2046%2017%20PM.mov?dl=0

Annnnd one more picture

Karen, do you have the impression that the soil isn't fast-draining because of the plant's symptoms or my initial description of watering? To clarify, I don't know how long the soil took to dry after being thoroughly watered (until it drained out the bottom of the pot). Prior to that watering session, I had been giving the plant conservative weekly drinks. It could be that the soil is incredibly fast draining and the plant has dried out because I withheld water assuming that a heavier drink should be followed by a longer abstinence.

For comparison, here is a photo of my mother's healthy plant started from the same cuttings:

Did you compare conditions of your mother's plant and yours? - soil it is potted in; frequency of watering; temps...

They're potted in the same soil, but her house is cooler (around 18-19 degrees Celcius), her plant is in a sunnier window, and she hardly waters it in the winter months.

Edit: I should add that my mother's houseplants tend to die, but currently- it looks healthy.

That sounds good - cooler it is, succulents should be watered less.

If my plant, I would def. take all out of present pot/soil. I would discard any stems that are mushy - soft, showing any sign of rot. I would pot each healthy enough looking into separate pots so in case another is rotting, it won't infect rest. Separately, there would be also better air circulation rather than pot crowded with many stems. If you like full pots, they can be potted together once they are healthy. I don't think there is anything to loose - if there is rot, they will just continue dying off. Can't really see well, but they look potted quite low - meaning there is not enough soil to keep stems higher. That also gives much better air circulation around stems, and also light all the way to soil line. Easier to keep clean of fallen debris too.

I'm unsure of what the growths are. The roots do not appear to be rotten, but they were incredibly tightly bound. This took hours. I can't separate the stems- it seems that they are offshoots and connect beneath the soil line. I'm repotting in a terracotta pot using cactus soil with added perlite.

I'm unsure of what the growths are. The roots do not appear to be rotten, but they were incredibly tightly bound. This took hours. I can't separate the stems- it seems that they are offshoots and connect beneath the soil line. I'm repotting in a terracotta pot using cactus soil with added perlite.

The roots look OK to me.

So according to what you say, it was very potbound. How long was it in same pot? Those stems do not look quite right to me - either rot or frost damage - but I am just guessing, trying to judge from photos. Did you try to feel if they are soft? - hard to do with spiny stems, but I would try.

I tried to take pics of trunks of my plant as close to soil line as possible but it isn't easy since there is a Thanksgiving cactus in same pot, so it is crowded. Soil is quite bad, and there is still debris from maple trees that was blown in, and pics are bit hazy...sorry, but here is all I can get. Stems look different than yours - full (not sure if that's good description):

What is this?:

I didn't plant the cuttings. I agree that it appears to have been grafted, but I have no idea what it was grafted onto. It's been in the same pot for at least 2 years. I may be able to gather more information from the person who gave it to me.

The stems are indeed concerning.

Do you recognize those tumor-like growths on the stem (just above the soil line in the photo you circled)?

That looks like 'graft union' - not sure if that is correct term. Below is whatever they used to graft on. I would be very interested to find out what is going on there...and why it was grafted in the first place?

Plants are grafted usually because they lack chlorophyll and can't survive on their own (like common Moon cactus - red, yellow, pink and similar tops); or because plant is very slow growing. I believe there could be some other reasons, but these are most common. This plant doesn't have either 'problem', so I am quite surprised to see it. Pls, post if you find out!

What is the condition of the stems that seems to be grafted? (above the 'union'). Any chance of a close-up photo?

Roots of your plant look quite good in the photos you posted, that's why I am inclined to believe it may have a frost damage.

Grafted! that's a first. Kerry that sounds like good plan for it. It does look awfully dry though. A pot that size even at 68-70F will dry out in a week when it's that crowded. I hope it turns around for you. That ugly section of stem can just be cut out which if you do will help the plant get more light and air.

Here's a close up:

And here's its current state:

I have since given it a thorough watering.

I've also learned more about its past. Apparently no grafting was done (which leaves me stumped), and it was kept indoors so there wasn't any frost damage.

I have been thinking about this and looking at the photos. As much as it looks like graft to me, MAYBE - most likely - I AM WRONG and there is no grafting! I apologise for reacting without really thinking about it, it was just so odd looking to me.

I kept looking at my plant. If you look closely at this photo:

I was told that my plant is about 8 years old

Thank you to everyone for the abdvice. Since repotting and watering the leaves have not yet perked up, but perhaps they are beyond recovery and the stems will sprout new growth.

I can tell you that once the hot sun comes back it will do really well.

And, because you bare rooted it, it will react to the shock especially this time of the year, but should bounce back over time even looking not so good during the process.

because your plant is so dense, I would make sure there is good air movement so as to dry out any water that gets between the trunks and make sure to water often, so that the soil never goes bone dry. Your plant at the start looks under watered to me and the roots look perfectly fine.

This plant can look dead, wilted, loose all their leaves if not watered properly.

Thanks Mike, I'll continue to care for it and put it outside once summer hits.