There are many germination temp charts available online but I'm not familiar with the particular one you refer to. If you attach a direct link to it in your post when citing specifics it would help to answer your question and saves responders from having to dig it up. :) However in general the charts are not "lab" results. Most will post the ground soil temp range for those seeds which are normally direct sowed and the indoor soil temp range required for those seeds which are normally grown for transplanting, ie. in the house or in a greenhouse. And for the most part, depending on the info source, they are quite accurate even in real life. So for example, tomato and pepper seed temps on the charts are for indoor growing using a supplemental soil heat source while spinach, peas and similar crop temps on the chart refer to the garden soil temps range required as they are normally direct seeded. While indoor soil temps can vary greatly depending on the heat source used, outdoor soil temps are much slower to respond to changes - both warming and cooling. Hope this helps. Dave

Raid House and Garden for the adults,bottom water only from a container with a chunk of mosquito dunk in it. Put some dry sand or chicken grit on the top of the soil so the fungus gnats won't lay their eggs.The real key is to keep the very top of the planting medium dry. Fly strips will catch adults too. As will a cup of regular coffee - LOL Blech!!

Impatiens being a shade plant will not flourish in high temperatures. Even if you got them to germinate it is unlikely they will do much outside in the heat. You have so many tropical plants that others can't grow pick one and grow that. I would dearly like to grow some plants that just won't tolerate my climate. That is the nature of plants and we gardeners have to adapt

Reed, I love Tom Clothier's data base. It helps take a lot of the guesswork out of knowing when to plant seeds. At his website there's also a similar set of data for other plants like annual and perennial flowers. I first really came to understand the relationship between actual soil temperatures and seed germination/plant growth and performance from Dr. Sam Cotner's incredible book "The Vegetable Book: A Texan's Guide to Gardening". I also learned so much from him about the way air temperatures impact growth and performance of our vegetable plants. While there are many gardening books that I love, love, love and find useful, Dr. Cotner's book is the only book I consider absolutely essential and responsible for whatever success I have had in raising vegetables. I grew up in a gardening family so understood all about when we planted each vegetable, but reading Dr. Cotner's book in the mid- to late-1980s helped me understand it all in terms of, not dates, but rather soil temps and air temps. After that, vegetable gardening became so much more easy to understand and manage. I've completely worn out my first copy of Dr. Cotner's book, and my second copy is starting to look pathetically well-used. And for anyone who hasn't seen the soil temperature part of the OK Mesonet, I'll link the three-day average map below. You can increase your own soil temps by mulching the soil heavily in the fall to help hold in the heat, or by covering it with black plastic several weeks before you want to plant. You also can use clear plastic placed over PVC hoops to form low tunnels over beds you want to heat up. The same greenhouse effect that keeps plants warm in our greenhouses will heat up soil in a low tunnel in no time at all. I usually won't plant anything until my soil temps have been in the right range for good germination for 3-5 days and the forecast looks favorable for the next 10 days too. I take my own soil temps using a thermometer with a metal probe, but also check the Mesonet maps to follow general trends. If you have raised beds or sandy soil, you may find that they warm up more quickly than grade-level soil and more quickly than dense clay soil. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: 3-Day Ave Temp Bare Soil at 2