This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

Before we get into your layout there are a few points in your post that require attention. 1.A watercloset MUST BE installed on a closet bend. It may not be installed on a wye & 1/8 bend or combo. When it is necessary to install a watercloset on an existing horizontal line you must first install a Wye, wye & 1/8 bend or combo with the side inlet on the side of the line then use a closet bend to transition from horizontal to vertical. 2.Code prohibits installing a "sanitary Tee" on a horizontal line. You must use a Wye, Wye & 1/8 bend or a combo. 3.The length of a waste arm is measured from the "Trap Weir" to the vent opening. The Trap weir is the point were the U section of the trap transitions to horizontal on the trap tailpiece. (The physical point where the water would spill out of the trap and enter the drain line.). 4. Code prohibits any horizontal venting until the vent reaches an elevation of 6" above the flood level rim of the highest fixture served by that vent therefore you may not connect a vent to the vertical riser under the watercloset. Under the International Residential Code the maximum length of a fixture arm or waste arm can be computed by dividing the diameter by the pitch thus your formula was correct, a 2" line with a " pitch could run a maximum of 2" / .25" = 8Â. The UPC begins with the same basic formula but they then de-rate the overall length by approximately 40% and the results are published in UPC table T-10-1 1-1/4"ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ.2Â6" 1-1/2"ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ.3Â6" 2"ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ5 3"ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ6 4" or largerÂÂÂÂÂÂ10 The solution is simple. Code requires the watercloset to have a 3" diameter line and you must have a cleanout on the upstream end of all drain lines. Understanding that a watercloset can be lifted granting unobstructed access to the drain line, the code then allows the watercloset to also be the required upstream cleanout. Begin at the closet flange and install a closet bend which transitions the 3" from vertical under the watercloset to horizontal and continue that 3" line as straight as possible to the point where you intend to tie into the house main drain. The UPC requires a 3" line serving a watercloset to have a 2" diameter vent. You may install a Wye, Wye & 1/8 bend or a combo on the 3" downstream of the closet bend, then run a 2" horizontally to the point where your lavatory riser needs to be. Install a 2" ¼ bend and turn upwards to a vertical riser. At the correct elevation for the lavatory drain you will install a "2x2x1-1/2 Sanitary Tee" with a 1-1/2" waste arm extending out to the lavatory trap. The 2" line is then continued up and out through the roof as an auxiliary vent. In this configuration the line extending upwards from the sanitary Tee is a vent, while the line extending down from the Tee and horizontally to the 3" is a "combined Waste & Vent" to the 3" line. Under the UPC a shower stall is rated at 2DFUÂs (drainage fixture units) and a lavatory is rated at 1DFU while a 2" horizontal line is rated for a maximum of 8 DFUÂs, so you may then connect your shower drain into the 2" line or directly to the 3" line. The 2" line from the shower may run a maximum of 5 from the trap weir to the tie in point without requiring any additional venting. The 3" line downstream from the point where the vent ties in is classified as a vented branch and therefore it may run an indefinite length.

With all do respect, if you're having a problem with it future buyers may, too. If it's the main bathroom, it's a good place to put $ into it when possible. A good main bathroom & nice kitchen helps sell homes. I think it's good to do a nice remodel about 5 years before resale, so at least the remodel can be enjoyed & help sell home later. I'm a real estate agent & can say a lot of people are ripping out the 80s jacuzzi. Installing a sit in shower with tile. You could save $ doing the tear out yourself.

Please post a scaled floor plan and pictures. Help us help you.