you cut bigger holes with wire cutters.

hope that helps

FWIW, welded wire fencing is only 14 gauge. Most CRW remesh is 10 gauge. So the welded wire fencing won't be as sturdy for at least self-supporting cages. But I guess if you have it attached to many posts it should work OK. I agree that making single cuts and bending the cut strands back makes for the safest and least painful access holes. The idea of a semicircle is a good one too. I guess you'd put wooden braces every foot or so.

I have probably 12-15 welded wire cages I have used for many years - just as long as I have used the CRW cages - since I had a big roll of it on hand at the time. Holds up just fine. Requires staking just as the CRW cages do and yes you just cut randomly spaced bigger holes in it with wire cutters.

When you cut be sure to leave a small piece that can be bent back to provide a smooth edge. Otherwise you can cut your hands on the cut edges when picking.

Dave

I like the bending back idea.

I'll just use a couple t-posts pounded deep for support - I have hundreds of those.

I put the welded wire directly inside 7 gallon fabric grow bags in a "C" shape for my tomato (and large pepper) plants, before I add the soil. Worked well last year. In a "C" shape, they're plenty sturdy enough to stand on their own. I put all of mine in a row and throw a shade cloth over them.

As the plants grow bigger, I string some twine in a zig-zag pattern to hold any branches that grow into the "C" opening.

I used welded wire fencing on “stake-a-cages” with great success last year. Cut the fence in about 24 inch widths (fold back cut wires to remove sharp ends). Zip tie or wire to attach the fence to a t-post. Attach at about 1 or 2 feet above the ground level - some of the fence will be extended up above the post - that’s fine and it gives you more vetical support. Let the fences natural curl go.. if you have good spacing you should be able to reach all around the plants.

I would say it’s ideal for intensive gardens, not the best if you have plenty of space or just usually let the plants sprawl out. You will need to prune a little aggressively and tie the plants up to keep them tidy and upright.

At the end of the year, I just clipped all the zip ties and stacked the fencing together and the t posts together - takes up very little room in the shed.

I like this idea. Did you buy any old wire such as this? - https://weldingmart.com/lincoln-superglaze-4043-aluminum-mig-wire-ed032395. Were you able to salvage the wire from year to year?

I use welded wire cages. I get the 6' wide stuff. Works great for some tomatoes, cukes, beans, sweet peas, morning glories.. this year I'm trying some new personal melons and a vining summer squash. Also works nice for making compost bins.

Jason - not sure if you were responding to my post, but yeah - Im sure you could use any old wire. I use zip-ties because they are easier to use in my mind and I don't have to worry about my kids stepping on misplaced metal wire.

I built my cages. Tomatoes doing well so far. An Opalka with a green fruit.

I've got my tomato plants in place in their 7 gal grow pots again. Except this year put my welded wire cages on the outside of the pots. Last year I placed by "C" shape cages inside the pots before adding the soil and the plants. While that worked, it also took up a lot more space in my small greenhouse where I keep the plants for a month before they can go completely outside. This year I let the plants grow bigger then placed them in their final spots outside before wrapping the fence cage around then and securing with a piece of bailing wire.

Since I had a bunch of 36" welded wire fence already, I just use that. Then as they get taller I'll zip-tie a 2nd section on top.

I also clip 40% shade cloth over the top and down the sunny side, which seems to really help keep them from getting too hot/sunburnt.