Rabbits and roses - huge damage, can anything be done?
vesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY)
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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Major Rabbit Damage on Apple trees how to fix it!
Comments (70)Thanks for the update and the pictures! Itâs good to know that your trees healed well. I was curious how they did because Iâve got a ton of rabbit and vole damage to deal with. Iâve got about 200 apple and pear trees in a fenced-in 60â x 60â nursery. The trees are 1 to 4 years old, ranging in size from less than a foot to 7 feet tall, with each one wrapped with a 24â plastic vole guard. Even though the nursery is surrounded by an 8-foot polypropylene mesh deer fence fortified with a 28-inch welded wire rabbit fence, it was no match for the 2 to 5 feet of snow thatâs been on the ground for most of the winter. With the snow higher than the rabbit fence, they easily chewed through the polypropylene mesh, and, in a single night, nipped almost everything down to snow-level (about 30â). The bigger trees are missing big patches of bark, maybe 2/3 to 3/4 of the way around the trunk. Oh - and under the snow, on the smaller trees, voles skeletonized everything above - and sticking out of - the plastic guards like piranhas. I saved what I could by wrapping what was still standing above the guards in aluminum foil, made some patches in the fence with poultry netting, and dug a trench in the snow all the way around the nursery. In the process of mending the fence (which took a few days), rabbits got in only once. They ignored all the aluminum-covered trees, and gnawed on raspberry canes instead. Once mended, the rabbits havenât got back in. As for the vole guards, they can only save the wood that theyâre guarding. I wonât know the full extent of the damage until the snow melts. It stands at a little under 2 feet deep right now. Itâs just devastating to see such damage. Heartbreak aside, my concerns/questions are: Will there be new growth (from the scion/variety Iâm trying to grow) if there are no visible buds? Is there anything I should do to keep disease (scab, canker, fireblight) from entering the wounds? Good luck!...See MoreBark damage, can you do anything ?
Comments (6)"Your (are) both saying take down this nice Maple due to this 1 area of damage?" Better than having it come crashing down on your home some day. This tree is large, but not huge. Why waste another ten years on a tree with serious damage, when you could use that time to grow a replacement? In ten years from now you could have an empty spot in your yard after a bunch of clean up work or a new tree with ten years worth of growth. Of course one consideration might be whether you will still be there in ten years. "Not sure where to look or how to know if the bark is soft" It's not the bark you need to look at; it's the wood. If the bare wood is soft or spongy, it's rotten. The coloration in your picture makes me think this is very possible. "...so, it could start to heal" Trees don't heal. They cover their wounds. If rot is present before the wounded area is covered (and it looks like that's likely from what I see), the rot will always be there and will, to some degree and at some speed, spread. And, as Spruce said, if the wound extends below ground level, rot will weaken and eventually destroy the tree. "This is a death sent(e)nce for this tree?" Yes. Of course something else could come along and take your tree out first, but eventually this wound will lead to the death of the tree if something else doesn't happen to it first. The amount of time that it takes for this wound to lead to failure depends on many factors. It could be just a few years or it could be quite a few, but the process has started. If the tree doesn't endanger your home or safety, it's not necessarily a bad decision to leave it, but I would at least consider other options....See MoreAdvice on moving a huge rose
Comments (3)Well, I am in a similar situation. I have a number of climbing roses and large shrubs I planted in the nursery garden about 5 years ago as bands. They are now huge simply because I found it easier to transplant out into the landscape the roses that I grew on in pots rather than in the ground. Anyway, this year I moved a few of them the first week or two in April. I removed old wood, side branches and canes that were growing at more than 45 deg. from vertical. I did this to gain access to the base of the plant so that I could dig around it. This left me with several upright canes with few branches. They were shortened by about half to as much as two thirds. Since I was sure to remove a great deal of the roots when digging up the plant, I was trying to get a good ratio of top to roots. I was also trying to get a manageable plant that one or two people could dig and move. I made a vertical cut in a circle around the plants with a spade a couple of feet from the center and then removed some of the dirt around the base of the plant to get to the roots. I used the spade to pry out as much of the roots as possible and then cut off the remaining roots with clippers. I think it does less damage to cut the roots than to try to pull them out of the ground. Some of the roots from a huge shrub or climber will be 3' to 4' long. It is just not possible to dig them all out. I use a bushel basket to move the rose and the roots generally just about fill it. Obviously, you are going to need a big hole in which to plant the rose and it should be well amended with compost and a couple of cups of Rose Tone. Spring rains should keep them well watered. The big question I have been wrestling with is the proper time to do the transplanting. I think that April 1 was about the last date that I would transplant in my zone 6 garden. The roses seem to be just on the verge of pushing their leaf buds out at this time, and I definitely want to try doing it before there is any real swelling of the buds. I noticed that the transplanted roses took at least another two weeks and up to a month longer to leaf out than the roses that were not moved. Next year, as the process continues and I have some that are 10Â and larger, I hope to do the transplanting the last couple of weeks in March and be completed by April 1....See MoreSerious (rose slug?) damage--anything I can do?
Comments (10)If you go out early in the morning while it is still cool and dewy wet outside, you may have better luck spotting the slugs. Once you get used to seeing them nearly invisible hugging the edge of leaf or sometimes even curled around a new bud, they aren't so hard to find, but you have to kind of train your eye to actually see them--they blend in well with the curves of the leaves. Sometimes towards evening if it gets cooler, they seem to come out to the edge of the leaves again. I guess they like to hide under the leaves in the heat of the day. Your slugs may all be "departed" by now. After a week or two, the good bugs come along and get them. Unfortunately, they leave the damaged leaves behind for a long time. Once I think the good bugs have done their job, I clip back the canes a bit to get rid of the ugly leaves and to stimulate some new growth--aided, of course, by lots of water and a feeding (if they haven't been recently fed, that is). Fortunately, no slug problem this year. Had lots last year. Don't know what makes the difference. Kate...See Morevesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoportlandmysteryrose
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked portlandmysteryrosevesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY)
6 years agoPlumeria Girl (Florida ,9b)
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked Plumeria Girl (Florida ,9b)vesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoKaren Jurgensen (Zone 4 MN)
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked Karen Jurgensen (Zone 4 MN)AquaEyes 7a NJ
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked AquaEyes 7a NJMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked Melissa Northern Italy zone 8Plumeria Girl (Florida ,9b)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked Plumeria Girl (Florida ,9b)nippstress - zone 5 Nebraska
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked nippstress - zone 5 Nebraskaingrid_vc so. CA zone 9
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoSheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked Sheila z8a Rogue Valley ORsultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
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mad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)