Do you have a basement? I would connect a transformer to a utility junction box in the basement and run low voltage wire up to where you wish to put the video doorbell. This low voltage wire would be AC so a battery backup wouldn't work there. As DavidR said, you could put a computer UPS between the junction box and the transformer.

I don't have a basement. And even though most of our crawlspace is stand-up, that part of the house is where it is shallowest.

I wasn't sure about code regarding the transformer in the wall, which is my hesitancy.

Since I don't have a doorbell to examine, is the transformer normally in the chime?

Joe

Are there any 120 volt receptacles in the crawlspace? If so, put the transformer next to one and run the low voltage wire from there. Transformers are not normally in the chimes (doing so would require all the doorbell wiring be code for 120 volt service).

Doorbell transformers are normally attached to a knockout on a junction box. Most often you find them in the cellar or crawl space. I guess they could be in the attic too, though I've never seen that.

They shouldn't be concealed inside a wall. Nothing electrical should.

You can get plug-in transformers, if that's the way you want to go. They look like wall warts (AC adapters for electronic gadgets), but the cord is usually replaced by screw terminals for your low voltage doorbell (or whatever) connection.

You could plug one of these into a UPS if you want backup power.

The electrician who gave me a quote was planning on putting the transformer in the attic. I just can't bring myself to spend over $650 (including the chime) to have someone else do this for me. Although it may pay off more in the long run. Until now there hasn't been much of a house selling point to a hardwired doorbell. Now with the advent of security video doorbells, it could be a more compelling feature.

As of right now, though I am leaning toward the Ring2 which can be either battery or hard wire powered. It is not a battery backup. I imagine you configure it when you install it. Supposedly the battery lasts 6-12 months and is confirmed by the reviews I've read online. At least more reliably than the original Ring. And the battery is removable so I can have a second battery available easily enough.

I like the sleeker look of the Skybell, but this at least gets me up and running faster and I can still opt for hardwiring later without wasting my investment in the doorbell.

Joe

Are you comfortable running the wire from your doorbell to where you’d mount the transformer? If so, that is literally the hardest part of installing a wired doorbell. I just installed mine without an existing wired doorbell. I was lucky as the spot I wanted to mount it was in close proximity to interior trim. I pulled the trim away from the wall, and my vinyl siding away from the exterior wall (not required) and drilled a tiny hole for the bell wire. Make sure to caulk the hole, but not until you confirm the bell is working and no issues with the wire. I DO have a basement, and my utility room happened to be just below my front door which worked out great. As others mentioned, transformers fail, so I opted for a plug in ELK 16v transformer so it could be easily replaced without having to turn off a breaker. For a direct wired Ring, you also need to call them and get a free adapter (basicslly an in-line fuse) to put between the bell and the transformer. You will also need a separate chime if you want one. Last but not least, you need to have a pretty good wireless signal where the doorbell will be installed. Your signal will directly affect your video quality and speed of accessing the bell from the app.

Since I am a live performance electrician and have built my own tube amps, I am pretty comfortable with all the wiring necessary. Mostly I am just lazy and want to do this with the least effort possible! :-) But, with a great appreciation for the dangers of electricity, I do want to make sure I abide by codes.

But, going back to that lazy thing plus reticence about this project, I am least comfortable mucking around with exterior walls. To keep the wiring entirely internal also seems to require me to come in from below or above through the framing (there is more room in the attic than the crawl space at the front door for me). Or am I missing something here?

Joe