One thing you will need to purchase and learn to use is a pond test kit. Doing a test every week or so allows you to keep your water healthy and clear. Things that can mess up water chemistry are overfeeding, fish poop and other organics like the muck at the bottom of the pond, heat, insufficient oxygen, rainwater and a bunch of other things. Most of the bad things can be caught early with the test kit. Don't waste money on test strips. They are often inaccurate. Not all shop vacs are designed to pump out the water continuously. It will say on the box that it has a pump feature. I found mine for $85. There are other devices that work with water running from a water hose. The one I use most often for a quick fix is this type. It's found at WalMart and is for childrens pools. It costs $20. I am looking for one of a similar design with better construction. It is just plain flimsy and repairs don't last. Python also puts out a similar device. It is hard to hold, the capture jar is too large around for me to open and it is overpriced at $89.It is complicated. The shop vac removes water. You can run the hose that you attach to it to your garden. The dirty water is good fertilizer. The other two add water to the pond so I pump some water out with a sump pump or I drain the filtration tank. Either way is simple to do, even for someone with my current physical problems. LOL, sometimes I must be a sight to see. The fishies sometimes get curious but if you keep the nozzle moving slowly, they will lose interest without getting scared. Are you saying the pump and tubing are not submerged? If so, it is a different type of pump than I use. That isn't a problem but we need to get another forum member to discuss them. Mine are submerged and I hesitate to give advice on a type I have no real experience with. The other things function enough alike that I don't have a problem talking about them. If I do, someone else will be along. While the pond is dirty, that foam filter in front of the pump will need to be cleaned fairly often, just like Sheepco says. Most pumps can handle dirty water with some small abount of debris but larger debris needs to be stopped from going into the impeller as it can cause damage. I hate that tiny little filter. It is just too inefficient for words. I found a prefilter for a well pump at Menards. I used some stepdown PVC connectors, also at Menards to make it fit the tubing. It keeps anything above the size of a small pea from entering the pump and a decent pump can handle that with no problem. I threw away the tiny foam filter that came with the pump. The water exits the pump and tubing runs to a 100 gallon Stock tank which is my mechanical filtration It also serves as a home for the bacteria that cleans up organic matter in the water. That black bucket thing behind your waterfall is likely to be a mechanical and bio filter. The details are just a little different. My filter is called a Skippy Filter. It is not the only design out there. I just happen to like playing with this kind of stuff. Another small pond I have the care of changes drastically every year. No matter what kind of system you are using you should look at how effecient it is, whether it works for you and if it does what it is supposed to. There are many sites that explain how filter systems work. To see how my skippy works, google Skippy stuff. My pond is 1000 gallons so my system is probably oversized, but I want to enlarge it this year or next. I have to get my body working first then I can use it as physical therapy! You have either EPDM or plastic(PVC)as a liner. If it feels like rubber it is EPDM. EPDM is rubber, just like they use in innertubes or on roofs. 45 mil is best but it comes in a thinner version as well. The plastic liner isn't as durable but some people do like it. To figure out how many gallons your pond holds(useful for medications, additives, pump size, etc.)go to the link named pond volume calculator at the end of this post. Then you can figure out how much water you have, how much your pump should be moving, how many fish inches you can support and all sorts of other things. If you don't like this one, there are others. That is likely to be enough for now. As you think of questions just add on. Enjoy, Sandy Here is a link that might be useful: pond volume calculator

Congrats on finding land you love! Below is a link to an old Gardenweb thread you might want to read before closing on the land purchase. If there are things mentioned that you haven't done before you close, they should definitely be at the top of your list to take care of ASAP. As for doing part of work on the house yourselves, it is certainly possible but how successful you'll be depends in large part on just how 'handy' you really are and on how much time and energy you have to devote. You don't mention having any children yet but, since you mentioned wanting 3 or 4 bedrooms and that you're in your late 20's, I'm guessing that you may plan on having a child or two eventually. A pregnancy WHILE you are in the midst of building can severely cut into your time/energy for devoting to the build while simultaneously putting a sense of pressure on you to 'just get the darned house finished!' LOL! So, my advice is be careful not to bite off more than you can chew. But, if you have some actual building experience already... like maybe having volunteered extensively with Habitat for Humanity or having done some major renovations on a previous home... and can accurately judge both your skill level and the time you'll have available to devote - then go for it. Nobody else will ever put as much CARE into building your home as you will! Getting a contractor who is in charge of finishing the entire house to agree to let you do certain portions of the work yourself MAY prove difficult. Contractors are much more likely to prefer to hire 'professionals' under the claim that they can rely on professionals to get in and get the job done and that having the homeowner do part of the work could delay the overall progress. It also puts you and the general contractor in a rather odd relationship in that, the general contractor works for you but, to the extent you are acting as subcontractor for some portion of the work, you work for him. It kind of blurs the lines of authority. It is also possible to enter into a contract with a builder to him do the foundation, framing, rough plumbing, roofing, and finish the shell (up to dried-in stage or to the sheetrocked stage or to whatever point you decide) and, once he has completed all the work he was hired to do, he gets paid and steps out of the picture leaving you to finish the rest of it yourselves...either by directly hiring subcontractors or by doing the hands on work yourselves. Getting a bank on board with this kind of plan can be a bit difficult though. Banks typically want the house to be finished and ready to be lived in when the last of the construction loan money is drawn down. Plus, if there are any warranty issues once the house is fully complete, it can be difficult to nail down responsibility. Another option would be to go the owner-builder route so that your are your own general contractor for the entire build. That way you hire can subcontractors or do specific jobs yourself, as you desire. You're in total charge. There are consulting companies that, for a fee (which is much less than a general contractor's typical percentage) will guide and assist you as you owner-build. They lead you thru the applicable laws so that you get all the necessary permits and inspections, advise you on the order in which to do various jobs...including how far in advance one usually needs to order certain materials, provide you with lists of pre-vetted subcontractors which you can choose to hire, etc. They'll even help you find banks that will give construction loans to owner-builders. Working with such a consulting company can give you the same clout with subcontractors that a volume builder would have because the subcontractors know that, if they don't do a good job for you, they lose all future business that might come their way via the owner-builder consultant. (And owner-builders tend to pay subcontractors ON TIME so, once they've worked for an OB, many subcontractors actually wind up preferring it.) Be aware that, as an owner-builder, YOU are responsible for any state mandated warranties if you sell the house to someone else before the warranty periods have expired. My sense, from being on this board for more than 5 years now, is that owner-building is MUCH more common (and much more accepted) in the south than in the north...maybe because we tend to have fewer laws that protect homeowners from being victimized by unscrupulous builders here in the south so, to protect themselves, more southerners decide to owner-build. Or, maybe it is simply because having warmer weather most of the year just makes owner-building seem more attractive. Let's face it, most of us know that we don't want to be freezing our buns off hanging sheetrock or installing tile in an unfinished unheated shell in the middle of the winter! We don't even want to have to be closely inspecting a sub-contractor's work when it's 20 degrees outside. LOL! I know at least a dozen different people who have owner-built custom homes (with guidance from one of several different owner-builder consulting companies) and every single one of them says that they saved money, got a nicer home, and would owner-build again in a heartbeat. As for plans... you have several options for finding a plan and there are pros and cons to each: 1) If you want a custom design, hire an architect and have them create one just for you. Expect to pay anywhere from about $5/sq foot to 15% or more of your build price for architectural services. Price depends how detailed you want the plans and specs to be and what services, if any, you want the architect to provide beyond just rendering basic plans. If you want the architect to oversee the build process (i.e., ride head on the general contractor) expect to pay quite a bit more than if you just want them to render plans for you. At a minimum, if I hired an architect, I would want them to provide plans and complete specifications and then agree to be available (perhaps for an hourly fee) to settle any disputes regarding interpretation of the plans. And I would also expect them to provide, for free, any additional architectural services that proved necessary due to any flaws/omissions in the original plans. 2) Find a design online or in a house plan book that you generally like, purchase it along with a CAD version, and have it modified as needed to meet local codes. Some of the online plan sources now ask where you plan to build. I assume they do so so that they can advise you on whether the plan you have chosen already meets the building codes in your jurisdiction or can be modified easily to meet codes. Unless you find a plan that needs very very little modification to suit you perfectly though, you may wind up wasting significant time and money going this route. And apparently a lot of architects really don't like being asked to modify a pre-existing plan. You may have more luck if you hire a younger architect who is hungry for work. Alternatively, take the CAD to a draftsman to revise then have it the revised plan reviewed by a structural engineer with knowledge of local code requirements. Note that, in this case, if there are any flaws/omissions in the final plans, you're on your own hook to work out an acceptable solution with the builder. 3) Find a house built locally that you like, track down the architect and find out if he/she will license the plan to you. Be aware that if the house was fully custom, the architect may have contracted with the homeowner NOT to re-license the same work within a certain distance from the original build. (Folks who have paid for a truly custom design may not want another home exactly like theirs being built a block away!) Building a house from a plan that has already been successfully built minimizes that chances that there are undiscovered flaws/omissions in the plan. 4) Hire a design/build company that has an architect/draftsman on board. The really major potential problem with going this route is that, once you have a satisfactory plan, you can't put the design out for competitive bids. You are locked into either accepting the price the design/build company gives you for building the house or starting back over at square one. And, if midway thru the build, you find you have to fire your builder (it happens) or he goes bankrupt (it also happens), I'm not at all sure what legal right you would have to use the plans to finish the build. 5) Hire a volume builder and just choose one of their designs. Typically the only customizing that a volume builder will allow is in the finish work. I.e., you can choose paint colors, carpet colors, and choose from among the a limited palette of tiles, hardwoods, plumbing fixtures, and lighting fixtures. Don't go in thinking you can ask them to move walls or add in a window or two. Probably won't happen! 6) Design your own home. This takes an immense amount of time and study. It is definitely NOT for the faint of heart or those who are unwilling to learn one heck of a lot about architectural design and building codes AND be willing to learn to use a reasonably good CAD program. It also probably helps to have a good knowledge of basic physics and, even then, you'll probably eventually want to have your design carefully reviewed by a structural engineer. And of course, if there are any flaws/omissions in the design, coming up with a way to fix them is all on you. Here is a link that might be useful: What do you need to do/know if buying raw land

Looks great, however how about moving the trash right next to the sink. Much easier to scrape - rinse - load dishwasher. Also, if you can switch to a few more drawer stacks you will probably like them much more. I like the idea of cherry and white. Try to put in lots of different zones of lighting all on dimmers. I too don't like dark but really wanted my dark cherry kitchen, we put in 8 cans, 3 pendants, one above sink, and undercabinet lighting (in hutch too) all of them are on dimmers and it really helps to set the mood we want throughout the day and seasonally.

Do take it to the home decorating forum. We can't tell much from just these photos but it does look livable except for the purple paint and wallpaper. :) Those can go, and fast. It looks like inexpensive updating will take you a long way while you plan the real remodel. The honey oak isn't bad here! If the budget is really tight, don't do anything major until it grows a bit. Small projects tend up escalate and then something unrelated like the furnace might go out. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/decor