Benjesbride, where does she lose the 2"? It appears that she is not aware of the loss. Rebeccamomof123, are you pulling permits to do the work, or do you live in an area where the city/town/county inspectors are going to become aware of the work and expect to come in and inspect it? Or is your area more like where I live and anything short of an addition is something that no one will notice and that inspectors don't drop in when workmen are around unless it is really obvious that a big job is being done? The reason I ask is that your clearance for the toilet-to-tub distance is right on the edge of being okay. Some towns will not let you get that close. If you could get inspected by the code enforcement officer, or if you are doing this with permits, you need to draw this up and get it approved before assuming it is going to be approved. If you need to steal back a couple of inches to make it fit, one option is a wall-hung toilet. Your contractor opens up the wall behind your toilet and puts the tank and flushing works inside the wall (not the stuff you have, it is custom made for this purpose) and then the toilet part actually hangs off the wall and never touches the floor. It is much nicer for cleaning. All of Europe has been doing it this way for years, I hear. http://www.geberitnorthamerica.com/en_us/target_groups/enduser/products_enduser/toilets_2/concealed_systems_1/for_toilets_1.html

Pocket door for sure, is this the only bathroom in the house? I would never have a bathroom with 2 access points so if the only bathroom I would close off the bedroom access and live with the fact there is no ensuite . If this is an ensuite close off the hall entry .Then your layout looks fine. Good lighting is the next thing to address and I like lots of good lighting in a bathroom that includes over head pots and a couple of over the mirror Halogen 150 watt or the equivilant LED fixtures the pots on one switch the over the mirrors on another.This is one of my favorite fixtures for above mirror it is called Oxygen halogen is very afforadable and I think Lowes carries it in the US.I like your idea of the dark floor and shower floor just remember the shower tile needs to be smaller than the floor tile so make sure the tile you choose comes in the 2 sizes.I love the inspiration pic.

IMO oil rubbed bronze and gray don't look good together. Nor ORB with brushed nickel or chrome. But if you want a dark metal somewhere (such as the lights, or metal on wooden shelves), then maybe use matte black. I think that looks good with chrome. We put a stained alder linen cabinet and some stained shelves in our white and gray bathroom and I like it. We have wood floors, but lighter than your floors. On the white vanity there are chrome pulls, knobs, faucets, we have chrome shower fixtures; but on the stained cabinet there are matte black knobs and pulls, and the light has black as the metal finish. If you want wood somewhere you can do that with a vanity tray, your waste bin, framed art or a framed mirror. I presume there will be a shower curtain, so you won't see the shower fixture anyway. I used SW "crushed ice" as my light gray wall paint because all the other grays were too dark for the space. Crushed ice is in their white collection, but it worked.

I prefer sconces on the sides of the mirrors if they fit. As far as the off center sink, since you aren't changing the vanities, then just embrace it. I would do a mirror just dedicated to the sink cabinet - not all the way across to that tall cabinet. Then put some floating glass shelves or something in between. Please head the advice about the freestanding tub in the corner... they are difficult to clean around if you can't get there. And just my personal opinion... don't paint the walls white - its just too much white on white on white for my tastes... Post pictures when you are done! Good luck!