Hi Sheri! If the plant is truly Monstera deliciosa it isn't a Philodendron at all. The genus Monstera contains 33 to 36 or so species depending on the scientific source quoted. There are many scientific names in the genus but almost all have been sunk into synonymy with a much smaller number of accepted species names. It sounds as if you've done your homework already since you know the name of the botanist that originally published the plant or at least his abbreviated name so I'd say you actually have that species. Monstera deliciosa has a number of natural variations and some produce leaves that remain very small for the entire life of the plant. I was recently given a cutting from a 20 year old plant the the largest leaves weren't 12 inches wide. Philodendron is a very large genus with something close to 1000 species divided into three major sections but that is a totally different discussion. The same common name is used for Philodendron bipinnatifidum (P selloum) since it has multi-lobed leaf margins (edges). Even if the plant were P. bipinnatifidum the growth method is basically the same. It sounds as if your growing conditions are good for Monstera deliciosa since it is very tolerant. I doubt you can over water it since it naturally grows along steam banks in southern Mexico and most of Central America. However, the soil mixture may not be good for this species. Monstera require a very fast draining soil so if you have it in Mississippi clay the roots may not be able to freely grow and gather water and nourishment. The other possible cause would be either lack of or over fertilization. Either is just as bad. Most commercial growers prefer something like Osmocote 30-30-30 for large aroids. If the soil is good I'd try the fertilizer first. If the soil has not been amended I would suggest you mix a large quantity of moisture control potting soil with about 20% peat moss and add a BUNCH of cypress mulch. If you can find a bag of cheap orchid bark with charcoal add that as well along with any compost you can find. I know it may be a big job but if you dig the plant up and replant it in this mix it should begin to thrive. My big question is the weather in your area. Although Monstera deliciosa will likely survive, it will be temporarily stunted by extreme cold. The species is not know to do great much north of Orlando so keep that in mind. You can shield it from the cold during any really cold nights but try to keep it from long exposure. You should know this species craves to climb. I have several large specimens in my own atrium and one is now 10 feet up the nearest tree. I've seen them in the tropics and in South Florida at least 50 feet into the canopy and have read of them climbing much higher. Other than that, without photos to examine I'm not sure what other advice to offer.

Overwatering is really a misnomer. What's really going on is that some types of soil can stay moist for too long, because of the texture of the particles, and they way they lodge tightly together, filling all spaces in the pot. When that happens, there are no tiny air pockets and roots can rot. When a drip saucer is used, the bit of standing water in there can also be lethal to roots. When roots are rotting, they are unable to deliver moisture and nutrients to the leaves, and the effects manifest as yellowing, brown edges, eventual death of the plant. Learning how to avoid that can greatly increase your success with any potted plants. To read specifically about that, this article is extremely informative. Bagged potting soil is often not what one would describe as well-drained, especially after significant time has passed. It can settle (in conjunction with some decomposition as well) and suffocate roots as it turns into muddy muck. Meanwhile, the roots have filled the spaces they find suitable, and eventually run out of room to grow. A well-drained soil... water flows out as fast as you can pour it on, and dries within a few days. The way (stuff to use, amounts of it) to achieve that is the worthy subject of debate, but about the principle, there is a huge confluence of agreement. Ideally, about any (non-cactus) plant would like to have soil that is never dry, never soggy, always well aerated.

Hi Dee Thanks for your reply. I have been growing monstera for several years, both from cuttings and from seed. In the tropics they need some shade, or a permanently overcast climate, to prevent sunburn -- that causes a general yellowing. I see the mottled condition repeatedly, sometimes more pronounced and widespread than at other times. There is some indentation in the leaves. I have thought that drought during a leaf juvenile phase might cause the indentation and yellowing. Also I have thought that herbicide use might contribute. Soil pH is an interesting question. These plants do GREAT under ironwood trees (Casuarina equisetifolia) which cover the ground with needles, and basically NOTHING else grows, no weeds, just a few ferns. I assume high acidity, though I have not tested. We get average 130" annual rainfall, so one assumes acidity everywhere without treatment. Mike

It is thrips -- I got a positive ID from my state extension office. Currently trying to treat with a combo of insecticidal soap, neem oil, and spinosad.. Ugh! Thank you :)