In the OP, it was mentioned that the plant was above a "rock filled water tray ... for humidity. I hope it's not sitting in its own effluent that collects in a drain saucer. Using a wick, like mike suggested, would be less effort and will accomplish the same thing as employing the pot-in-pot technique. The problem with pot-in-pot is, the water in the soil of the larger pot is going to stay there until it evaporates, and I can see some potential problems associated with anaerobic decomposition in the larger pot's soil. Skip the water meter. Buy a 1/4 or 5/16" wood dowel & sharpen it in a pencil sharpener. Use THAT to test the soil for moisture. Push it deep into the soil - if it comes out damp and dark or wet - no water required. The fertilizer is appropriate insofar as the NPK ratio, but what else does it contain? Reading the ingredient list of the potting soil and assuming the ingredients with the highest volumes are listed first, it HAS to be extremely water retentive - which means you can't water appropriately w/o risking root rot or at least impaired root function. You can't move it outdoors, but that's where it WANTS to be. Here's the thing - bottom line: The plant is obviously suffering because it's being forced to deal with cultural conditions it's not genetically capable of dealing with. If you can't isolate and fix the issues that are causing the decline, it will continue, so you'll need to go back to the drawing board and look at the big picture. The first considerations are checking for insects & root problems/disease, and making sure the plant is in an appropriate soil (if it's not, your watering habits need to be adjusted so they allow for a poor soil) and in the right light/temp range. If these issues don't come up in the favorable column, there isn't a lot of sense in chasing it much further until you're willing to take charge and make some changes. That might sound harsh, but it's just how things are. Al

First of all, yellowing and brown spots on the leaves of tomato plants can be a sign of different types of diseases, such as early blight, late blight, or septoria leaf spot. These diseases are usually caused by fungi that thrive in warm, humid environments and can spread rapidly in crowded, humid conditions. Based on your description, your tomato plants may be experiencing some type of fungal disease. Brown spots on the leaves, along with the white residue you mentioned, are common signs of fungal infection. Additionally, the presence of fruit flies on plants could also indicate fungal growth, as fruit flies are attracted to the sweet odor produced by fungi. To address the problem, it is important to take some steps to prevent further spread of the disease. First, you should remove all infected leaves and dispose of them in the trash, rather than composting them. This will prevent the spores from spreading to other plants. You may also consider applying a fungicide spray to the remaining leaves, especially if you see new spots appearing. As for leaf yellowing, this could be due to a variety of factors, including nutrient deficiencies, overwatering, or pests. You mentioned that your soil was low in nitrogen and phosphate, so applying organic fertilizer was a good next step. However, it can take a while for the plants to recover, as the yellowing can be the result of previous stressors. As for fruit flies, you may want to try some natural remedies, such as using sticky traps or applying a dish soap and water solution to the floor. These methods can help reduce the number of flies without the use of harmful chemicals. Finally, since you mentioned that you are a novice tomato gardener, it's always a good idea to do some research and educate yourself on common problems tomato plants can face. I would recommend visiting a website like https://thegardenplants.com/pests-diseases/leaf-problems/, which from what I've seen has quite a bit of information on leaf problems on various types of plants, although I don't think there is an article on tomatoes many of the solutions for these problems are useful regardless of the plant in question. I hope this information is useful to you and good luck with your tomato plants!

Okay, ladies born before 1970 listen up! We are up against the tree-huggers and Federal Government energy savers (you know, the HE guys- who, by the way, have never filled, let alone ran a dishwasher, picked up an article of clothing or stood waiting for the washer/dryer to complete a cycle!). I'm here to say, keep your waterless washers (wrinkle makers), heatless dryers (slow dry the wrinkles in on low ... so you can't even iron them out), and the HE 4-hour dish rinsing machines - - you got me once. I'd paid way too much for my new machines only to dispose of my newest HE washer, dryer, and dishwasher at the metal recycle place and buy used, older units on Craigslist and Facebook - so much happier!

A picture would help but just for starters Rosemary needs full sun is never going to be happy in shade. Knowing where you are located would also help.