SHOP PRODUCTS
Houzz Logo Print
aawood22

Garage placement rule of thumb?

Allison M
6 years ago

We recently purchased land and are in the design phase. Due to some particulars with the lot (size, setbacks and existing well location), our garage will have to be further forward (closer to the road) than the house is. I'm wondering if there are any rules of thumb with how much further out the garage should be to look the most proportionate? I don't have elevations, we're still working through plans, but I was hoping to get an idea from the experts here. Our house will be about 52' wide - two story craftsman style with a porch (likely 7' deep). The garage will be about 24' wide. If the garage sticks out about 10' further than the porch (17' from the house) will that look ok? Should it be more staggered? I don't want to go less as I don't want the house to be too close to the road. Any thoughts are appreciated!

Comments (42)

  • _sophiewheeler
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    The rule of good design is behind the plane of the home. Or a separate.building. Or a side load. No front loads in front of the house.

    Move the house forward. Or do a side load.

  • gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
    6 years ago

    Ditto the above. The focus should be the house, NEVER the garage!! However, 9 times out of 10 you will see it the other way around. Without exception, it will detract from the house.

  • Related Discussions

    Installing sash lifts: any placement rules of thumb?

    Q

    Comments (3)
    I would mount them around 8" and 24" on center, they will not look proper if spaced evenly on center. Make sure to mount them high enough on the bottom rail to give clearance for fingers between casing or stool.If these windows open easy you could also go with one lift as well.
    ...See More

    Rule of thumb for recessed light placement

    Q

    Comments (12)
    or how about no recessed lights at all? Recessed lights are mini spot lights and provide directional lighting straight down in a very small throw pattern. it casts shadows and illuminates the tops of your head. Throwing out how horribly inefficient cans are for ceilings from an energy loss standpoint (assuming there is attic space above), I have never found them to be good lighting in kitchens for the above reasons. Good lighting should be based around two simple things- tasks at hand and general illumination of the space without shadowing. An easy solution to fix all above issues is to not use them at all. Indirect lighting will provide general illumination to the space without creating shadows as light is not directed at a specific target (such as your body for example). An easy way to provide indirect lighting in a kitchen is T5 or LED linear fixtures above your cabinets positioned at an angle to project light out into the space to bounce off the ceiling. I use a double T5 fixture above the cabinets typically. This creates a large amount of light that can easily light yours and most kitchens. Next focus on task lighting to be directed at the tasks...your hands. You do not want your head to be blocking this. Standard island pendants typically work great for this since it directs the light straight down onto the work surface. T5 or LED continuous linear under cabinet lighting works great for other areas with cabinets above. The result is a bright, shadowless, illuminated space with plenty of light directly on your task and eliminating the sea of cans in a ceiling.
    ...See More

    Rule of Thumb for Sconce Placement

    Q

    Comments (5)
    I have my rough in for the sconces at 5'6" the sconces are similar to yours. I have them facing up. The bottom of the shade is at 5'9". It has not been too high for us. I am 5'7" and DH is 6' (in our youth, lol). Our ceiling is low at 7'. I am happy with this height. They take the old fashioned incandescent bulbs at 100watts. This provides plenty of light in our lightly colored room that is 6.5'x9.5'. Originally I had the shades at the 5'6" height, but when DDIL visited during the remodel, she thought they would be too low. It was the rough in phase so they were easily moved. She is 5'1". She thought the fixture would be easily hit with your arms with them lower. You can see how far out the project. Here is the other bathroom. I put the rough in at about the same height, at 5'4". The shade starts about 4" above the rough in center. These have been just fine. They are more flush with the the wall so less intrusive into the space of waving arms. it is interesting, the lumins are calculated to be similar to the first bathroom, here they just seem dimmer. There is a lot of dark wood in this room and maybe that soaks up some light.
    ...See More

    rule of thumb for bathroom sconce size?

    Q

    Comments (11)
    I think you want the ability to brightly illuminate the space without having lights shining into your eyes. An overhead can light makes for really unflattering and uncomfortable lighting over a sink. They are fine in the shower. My personal preference is for a bar over the sink that bounces 70-80% of its light off the ceiling for a bright but more diffuse effect, switched separately from the sconces so you don't get the Millennium Falcon effect when you get up in the night and turn the light on.
    ...See More
  • Allison M
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I can assure you I wouldn't do a snout house if I had another, viable option. I can't do a sideload as the lot is fairly narrow. I also really don't want to move the house forward as it will be very close to the road. Even with a slight snout it will be closer than I want it, however I don't want a giant garage in front of my house so I'm compromising on that distance.


  • _sophiewheeler
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    And there are other creative choices other than a snout. Like a U where the lesser used public rooms are at the front of the lot and the more private spaces at the back.

    But what is the point of purchasing a lot big enough to have a well and other rural amenities if it isn’t actually big enough to place a well designed home on it? It might as well be a city lot then.

  • Allison M
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    Sophie - A well doesn't mean that it's rural or large, it just means that there isn't another water source, which could be for a variety of reasons. Our lot is on a lake - not lakefront (a few houses up), but with lake rights and a dock. I would take a snout house any day if it means we get to have lake living.

    I understand that what I'm describing isn't ideal - it certainly wouldn't be my first choice - but I was hoping for suggestions on how staggered to make the house and garage. I guess what I'm hearing is stagger as little as possible.

  • _sophiewheeler
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Plan for a porch on the home that is the most forward point. Even if the garage is in the same plane as the home, the porch draws attention to the home and doesn't allow the garage to be the snout.

    It is hard to speak in generalities. Specifics of the individual lot make workable suggestions a lot easier. But this is what your architect should be sweating over. Creative site placement is one of the huge reasons for working with an architect.

  • Allison M
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    Sophie - Not an option. But thank you anyway.

  • lrunner
    6 years ago

    AllieM, I know exactly where you are coming from. We have 79 ft of lake frontage that pies out to be close to 90 ft by the road. Many lots on our lake are only 50 ft of frontage. We were working on a design with a front load also for several reasons. We must fit a well and septic on our lot. Also, a side load is not convenient for us to back the boat into. Lots of people on this forum are against attached garages and front load garages, so you are going to get lots of comments supporting side load and detached garages.

  • Allison M
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    Lindsay - Thanks for your reply! I'm trying to work with what we have (and keep things in perspective - slight snout is not a big deal in the grand scheme of things and a small price to pay to be near the water!) and was just wondering if there was any general rule of thumb regarding proportions. Good luck on your build!

  • lrunner
    6 years ago

    Maybe seeing a design in 3D will help so that you could see how far garage protrudes from house? I am a very visual person, so I know that helps me.

    Allison M thanked lrunner
  • PRO
    Virgil Carter Fine Art
    6 years ago

    OK...you don't want to move or reconfigure the shape of the house or garage...I get it...you like the area so much you bought a highly restrictive site on which to design and build a custom home.

    Compromise No. 1: a carport! Much less visual bulk and no large walls and doors which bust the scale of the house...notice its in front of the house façade on the left...


    Compromise No. 2: Build the house "around" the garage and enclose it on at least one side and above, so the bulk of the garage is absorbed by the house, and not sticking out, i.e., a snout. Note how the scale-busting garage door is visually broken down into quarters, with glazing and trim detaining similar to the house.

    Compromise No. 3: Put the garage behind or away or under the front of the house. Bob likes how the scale and proportion of the house is the primary thing his eyes sees. Be like Bob...


  • cpartist
    6 years ago

    Sophie - Not an option. But thank you anyway.

    Why is it not an option?

  • lrunner
    6 years ago

    Virgil, how would you use Compromise No. 3 on a lake (i.e. high water table) with a flat lot?

  • Mrs Pete
    6 years ago

    Okay, folks, she's made it clear she understands this isn't ideal. How about discussing the possibilities and letting her decide what's best instead of shutting down the question?

    We need pictures.

    First, let's look at everyone's favorite website: McMansion Hell, which is a fun website because it explains things. This is easy to understand: The house is taller and has more mass than the house -- it looks backwards.

    This one's better, but they're not wrong when they call the large single door a "big gaping maw". This could be better if that door were divided into two smaller doors and if they were wooden to fit into the overall color scheme.

    Then they show us proportions that work.

    Some houses are just plain overshadowed by the garage -- since you're looking at a very wide garage, this is a danger. This example is about a bad as it gets: Note that the garage door is a bright white, making it stand out, and the garage partially hides a gable. Finally, very little of the house actually shows -- one bitty porch with a door. Ick.

    Same house. I'm thinking this entire garage protrudes out in front of the house.

    This house, again, has too much garage door for the size of the house, and the front door is hidden. You don't want to see the door first.

    This house still has a protruding garage, but note that the garage door is divided into two, the gable is nicely centered, and the white doors aren't as jarring in this light-colored color scheme. We can see more of the house, making the whole thing look more proportional. I wish we could see just how far this garage sticks out. I think it sticks out just as much as the first house, but it does look better.

    You could say all those same things about this house:


    This one's called a Courtyard Style garage. It's practical, but note that it requires a sharp turn into the garage, and it limits your porch options. Note that this is a fairly large house attached to the garage; such a choice would overshadow a small house.

    Good luck with your project.

  • Illhhi
    6 years ago

    Once upon a time.... I lived in a wonderful subdivison in Winnetka IL that had spectacular views and lots, but the way the lots were, you had to have a front lode garage. The best home builder in the area was famous for his garage doors, that looked like windows, entry doors, etc. There are ways to make it go away. The attached picture is not of my former home, but one built by the same builder.


    On a clapboard sided home, the garage doors really did fade away.

  • PRO
    Virgil Carter Fine Art
    6 years ago

    Lindsay wrote, "...Virgil, how would you use Compromise No. 3 on a lake (i.e. high water table) with a flat lot?..."

    Easy answer: Flat lot and high water table...I wouldn't. But, on the other hand, if I had an uphill lot and no water table, it might make good sense... :-)

  • PRO
    Virgil Carter Fine Art
    6 years ago

    Ms. P wrote, "...We need pictures..."

    Good work, Ms. P. Bob likes 'em too--very informative for the OP.

  • Allison M
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    Virgil - thanks for the suggestions! #1 won’t work (we’re in the northeast and need an enclosed garage) and #3 won’t work (flood plain issues), but #2 is an interesting idea. I’ll have to give that some thought.
  • Allison M
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    Cpartist - the garage is going to be fairly close to the road. I really don’t want the house to be that close. Pushing the house back 7’ (the depth of the porch) doesn’t really help much.
  • Allison M
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    Illhhii - Love those garage doors! So unique!
  • Allison M
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    Mrs Pete - Thanks so much for the thoughts and pics. These are super helpful. Based on your pics and commentary I think we’re on he right track. The house will be fairly wide, which should balance out the garage some, we’re getting nicer carriage style garage doors (two separate) either wood or painted to coordinate with the house, and hopefully will only have it stick out about 10 feet or so. We’ll continue to pay attention to the overall balance or the house and will discuss with our builder and designer as we move along in the process. Thank you for your help!! Also, I’ll definitely be checking out the website you mentioned.
  • cpartist
    6 years ago

    Sophie suggested hiring an architect. You said it's not an option. I asked why hiring an architect is not an option, not why the garage has to be set forward.

  • nirvanaav
    6 years ago

    90% of the houses constructed in this country in the past 50 years have front-loading garages, most of which are indeed snout garages. Build what is going to work for your situation and don't worry about it. I suppose the rule of thumb is the snout garage, just look around you.

  • David Cary
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Allie- just make sure you are considering all options. Sometimes it is easy to get stuck in some mindset and forget other options. I might have missed some details because Bob is cracking me up but what I here is a garage almost entirely in front of the house.

    My first question is - why do you not want the house "so close to the road" but you are ok visually with the garage so close? This matters because having some house over the garage can minimize the visual impact. I like to point out our city code - no front facing garage may protrude in front of the habitable space of the house. If it is more than 50% of the face of the house, it must be 6 ft behind the front plane. Sneaky people down the street just built a new house with a room over the garage and I guess that counted - not really the purpose of the code.

    While it isn't horrible, it doesn't fit with the street. While you certainly don't have code issues, it isn't a terrible "rule". I honestly am happy this house is on a completely different section of my street - a terribly snobby attitude. But that section also has significantly lower resale values.

    My viewpoint on this discussion is that we (US upper middle) spend a lot of money on curb appeal - from brick, stone, trim, copper downspouts etc. It does not make sense to ruin this with a snout garage. But a front loading garage is most practical so the best thing to do (on a narrow lot) is to disguise the garage in the mass of the house, have double doors, and make them blend as much as possible with materials, color etc. Your rule about not having house so close to road limits that option. Having 30 feet from road vs 47 makes little difference in noise - certainly nothing better windows couldn't fix. Visually the approach from one direction will be very objectionable with your plan so always consider the approach of visitors.

  • Architectrunnerguy
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Design constraints are actually good because they give the designer something to work off of. That, and they result in creativity.

    A key is to design the house in such a way that the garage reads as it's own separate mass.


    And here's a plan of a house that does the same thing. Not suggesting this is for you as it's one story but illustrating breaking the forms down to a residential scale. It's 51' wide:

    Another solution is to actually detach the garage to create an inner courtyard. Aside from a bunch of design theory mumbo jumbo concerning arrival sequence, it gives the front of the house itself a lot more lot because 20' of it is not taken up by garage.



    A common element here is to install a really nice garage door and these cost money. The one you asked about in one of your posts didn't look nice. It looked like a cheap door painted brown. There's a difference.

    And to be honest, from looking at the design effort of your designer from another previous post of yours, somehow I think he/she is in way over their heads and not anywhere near capable of pulling off anything close to a great house. Sure, it will have four walls and a roof to keep the rain off of your stuff with all the spaces neatly labeled, but it won't be great.

  • Allison M
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    David - thanks for your reply. I think I put it in my original post, but the garage will be about 10’ further forward than the house. Also, the garage will be about half the width of the house (24’ vs 52’) so I feel like proportionally it won’t be that far off. I’m surprised to hear you say 30’ off the road isn’t too bad. That seems so close to me, particularly as it will be a rather large house. We have a 40’ setback and most houses are about 60’ off.
  • Allison M
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    Architectrunnerguy - We were looking at all options, trying to get a sense of what the fake wood garage doors would look like and decided it wasn’t for us. Therefore, as I said in a previous post, we’ve decided to spend the money on nice carriage doors. Also, early on we weren’t using a designer but decided to hire one. She’s amazing and I will be discussing this with her, however I like to look around and get some thoughts ideas ahead of time as well. And, as I previously said, we live in the northeast so no detached garage. Thanks anyway.
  • David Cary
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I added the 7 for the porch. Distance from road is super dependent on local issues. Here 30 is typical but there is 10 in some areas and 60 in others. Given what you use the front of a house for, 60 seems like a waste to me. Partly because I am forced to build at 60. If 60 is normal and 40 is the setback and you have the width, why not courtyard?

  • lrunner
    6 years ago

    Here is a screen shot of what a lot of the homes look like on my lake because they have 50 ft wide lots and need room for a septic field.


    As you can see, lots of front facing garages. In many cases, you can only see mostly garage from the street.

  • PRO
    Anglophilia
    6 years ago

    Okay - this is entirely different from a snout house. This is how houses are built in Malibu - one only sees the garage from the road and that's fine. I have no objection to this at all - it's a way for privacy for your house and for as much house as possible to face the lake. I do always worry about what the rooms that abut the garage are like - seems like they would be dark. I wonder if these couldn't be two separate buildings with a heated breezeway linking them, so the rooms on the back could have windows, greenery outside those windows and light.

    I do fully agree with you about an attached garage in the NE. My DS almost bought a very large house with a detached garage that was some distance from the house. I asked him how the heck his wife was going to get two young children (only 13 months apart) and the groceries into the house when it was raining or snowy and slippery. That would be a serious deal-breaker for me.

    It's always a conundrum as to which comes in first with babies/toddlers: groceries or children. I tried both ways. When they were very little, I brought them in first and tossed them into the playpen that lived in my kitchen for years (gasp! a playpen! how "confining"!), then the groceries. I could get them put away and then deal with their snow suits, jackets etc afterward. If they were asleep in their car seats (which they frequently were), I brought in the groceries first, put them away, and then awoke and retrieved my children.

  • lrunner
    6 years ago

    Anglophilia, are you talking about the houses I posted? I was curious as to people's opinion of this style because as I said, there are many of them on my lake. I don't think they look bad either, but I didn't know if it is because I am so used to looking at them.

  • PRO
    Virgil Carter Fine Art
    6 years ago

    Lindsay, the design challenge of garages--snout garages in particular--are well known, and have been discussed endlessly in threads on this forum.

    Your photos are one good alternative to snout and other front facing garages since all that is visible is the garage shell, which is admirably reduced in bulk and scale by the creative use of two smaller single door garage openings, with doors which are further detailed to reduce bulk and mass. The windows and that detail in the gable above the doors also helps refine the façade.

    Not every house design and site, however, lends itself to this design technique. The design guidelines cited by David Carey are another good way to have "front facers"--both garage and house which are visible from the street--in better harmony with one another.

    There are many, many other good design strategies, ranging from detached garages (connected with a breeze way, or similar device), garages in back accessed by an alley (or corner lot with two street faces), "L", "C", "U", "T" and angular shapes houses. These houses reflect their site specifics and incorporate innovative site planning as well as architectural design. Design by Olsen Associates.

  • Architectrunnerguy
    6 years ago

    I think you missed my point slightly. It wasn't about a detached garage, it was about skillfully breaking down the house form so the garage can take on it's own character without overwhelming the house.

    It's great to "get some thoughts ahead of time as well" but if you're giving your designer a bubble diagram and criteria list (program) as is typically done, initially I'd just write "Important to us is, while the garage may be half the width of the house, we want it to be creatively integrated so it doesn't dominate the house" and see what she comes up with based just on that. You can always see what that yields and show her other examples you like later.

  • lrunner
    6 years ago

    Good discussion, Virgil. So, in the style of house that David posted where the garage is mostly under the same roofline of the house, does that limit the amount of living space that you have on 1st floor since the garage is taking up a lot of the space under the roof? It seems like it would make 1st floor space a lot smaller and be good for plans with second floor master suites. I could be wrong though.

  • Allison M
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    Architectrunnerguy - that’s a good approach for addressing the issue with my designer. Thanks!
  • Architectrunnerguy
    6 years ago

    Well Allie, you're entirely welcome. And the best of luck with your build. Exciting times ahead!

  • PRO
    Mark Bischak, Architect
    6 years ago

    If your designer didn't have your answer, perhaps you have the wrong designer.

  • PRO
    Virgil Carter Fine Art
    6 years ago

    Lindsay wrote, "...So, in the style of house that David posted where the garage is mostly under the same roofline of the house, does that limit the amount of living space that you have on 1st floor..."

    No, Lindsay, not necessarily. It's really all about how one organizes the spaces important to be on the first level. Non-thinking tract homes simply attach one end of the garage to the front of the house and create the dreaded "snout".

    Thinking folks might simply integrate the garage into the rest of the first floor instead of creating a "snout".

    On the other hand if one has a small urban lot and ground space is tight, here's a common solution:


    Or if you live in Texas, and space is unlimited, here's what one does...This is Bob's week-end house:

  • PRO
    Virgil Carter Fine Art
    6 years ago

    Bob reminded me...building on ARG's good idea for a garage to have it's own character at the front of the lot, and the house to be developed behind the garage...Bob likes this approach...Bob is a colorful guy--that's his truck!

    Be like Bob!

    Design by Chris Hawley Architects.

  • User
    6 years ago

    I understand your concern completely. We were looking at a narrow lot that would dictate that the garage would have to be pushed forward also. On the other hand, we would also be fine with that if it meant near lake living!