Thanks for your responses. Mindimoo, your steel structure is awesome. No worry there. I wish I had researched this much better before having my kitchen demoed and ordering the granite. You both have some good points and good questions. My granite is 3 cm. It is black (Labrador Angola) which I am told is the strongest of all granite because it is much less porous than the lighter colors. The steel rods are threaded and they are imbedded in the bottom of the granite, covered by epoxy. So, water isn't an issue. There are 5 rods total. I don't know what it's called or what size it is. Looked like 1/4 to 1/2 inch. They say it's made for granite and the concept is similiar to what is done with concrete. One rod is in front of the cooktop cutout. One on either side of the cooktop extending to the 13" overhang, and two on a diagonal to each corner on the other end of the island which is where the 15" overhang is. These two probably don't meet the 2/3 to 1/3 rule. My original plan was to do something similar to the picture above in plywood. When I contacted my Lowe's cabinet installer to say I wanted to go back to Plan A he said it was overkill. He says he has demoed numerous kitchens where they had used the steel threaded rod and it is really difficult to break the granite. He was confident in their approach. I like and trust this guy but he is super busy so I hope he wasn't just telling me this because he didn't have time to help me prior to the install. Anyway, the granite was installed today. The fabricator gave me a written warranty that it won't crack as long as we don't sit or stand on it. I still have mixed feelings about the support. I still have the option of putting corbels on the end of the island although I wanted to avoid them because they are tough on the knees. But then again I wanted 15" there for the extra leg room since that is what many seemed to recommend on this forum. Also I could have L brackets on this end. There are doors on both sides of the island but the ends will just have panels (fake doors) which can be cut or notched for corbels or L brackets. I'm thrilled that the granite is finally in. I've been 2 1/2 months without a sink. I don't want to regret not researching this more than I did or rushing into things. If only I knew about this forum sooner. The feedback has really been great! Please let me know what you think. Thanks again!

Here's my understanding of "book" matching slabs.... "Book-matched" means that the two slabs are mirror images of each other. Think of it this way, stone is cut into slices, much like a loaf of bread. Typically, each "slice" is finished on the same side, so two slabs that come from right next to each other on the same big block look almost identical to each other. So, set next to each other on an island, you couldn't match up the veins at the seam. With a book-matched pair of slabs, they are finished on opposite sides, so when you align them, the seams look almost like an inkblot on a folded piece of paper. With a good seam, book-matched slabs should look like they "go" together. Since I probably just completely confused you, perhaps this not-very-good, quickie illustration will make it more clear (those squiggly lines are supposed to be veins)...

Thank you Vicnsb and Buehl for your comments. I have been mostly lurking, not having time to post, being owner builder for the last year. I plan in the near future.. after our move to post many lessons learned..for now I only have one album with way too many pix from beginning to current. If your interested..probably better to skip to the last few pages... Here is a link that might be useful: 2007/08 new home contstructon

OK - I may have gotten a little carried away...but here's a layout with what appear to be all your wants. I don't see a pantry, so I added cabinets behind the island as well as b/w the DR and TV room for extra storage. You actually have plenty of storage in this kitchen! The base cabinets on the top wall are 27"D (but could be as deep as 28.5"), the upper cabs on the top wall are 15"D. There are two excellent Prep Zones, although I would prefer to prep on the island facing everyone! (Prepping is 70% or more of the work/time in the kitchen; cleaning up is 20% or less.) The Cleanup Zone is out of the way of the Prep and Cooking Zones and there's no crossing through the Cleanup Zone to get to the Refrigerator or MW. With an undercounter MW like a MW drawer, you don't lose counterspace or have anything in the vertical space b/w the counters and cabinets. There's a nice stretch of counter to the left of the ovens,for a snack center or even a tea/coffee center (43" of counterspace). The ovens are in a 31.5" wide cabinet - the reasonable minimum needed for 30" wide ovens (which I assume the wall oven is at least - I don't know how wide your steam oven will be). There's a 42" wide counter-depth refrigerator - hopefully that will allay your DH's concern about a counter-depth model... In the DR, the table can be moved a bit to the left, especially if you don't put an outside door in the DR. Moving the table to the left will give you a few more inches b/w the shallow cabinets and the table. Note that the cabinets b/w the DR and TV Room are 6" taller than standard - that means the counter will be 42" high (bar-height). The cabinets + counters not only give you more storage space, but they also provide you with a separation b/w the DR and the TV Room as well as provide counter space in both places. The cabinets are 12" deep, but the counter is 15" deep. The TV Room has a sofa and chair - the chair can be moved to view the TV or stay where it is for conversation and visiting. (I even added end tables :-)) A note about the doors - I don't understand why you don't like the "line of sight" from the front door to the back door. The problem is, that middle section is the ideal spot for the back door - no obstructions, easy access to the kitchen, and out of the way of all work zones and seating areas. It keeps the traffic out of everyone's way - it's the perfect location! Put up some nice window/door dressings and you'll have a pleasant view for anyone entering your home from the front door. I wouldn't want the door to be in the kitchen (in the 8' span) b/c it would draw everyone through the kitchen to get to the backyard - the last thing you want in a kitchen! The island will help direct people around, but inevitably, some people will choose to go through the kitchen (b/w the island and perimeter) and get in your way - especially if someone is sitting at the island. If you absolutely must have the door there, then I suggest a sliding door with the opening as far away from the kitchen as possible - so that would mean the bottom of the 8' span. The rest can be windows. It's still going to be an issue, though... Here's the layout (select/click on a picture to see a bigger version): I labeled the cabinets and counters with suggestions for storage and usage - but you should tailor it to what would work for you... Here's a zone map: