There are several things that must be considered. I like to use the concept of MOST amount of flooring that follows the general rule. If you have a single room (lets say 10' x 10' = 100sf) and then the REST of the space is much, much larger (say 600sf), you would want to try to keep the MAJORITY of the flooring (600sf) sticking to the rule of "longest length = long run of the room". The other question with hardwood becomes wooden subfloors. Sigh. Wooden subfloors over joists change the equation. Hardwood floors must be run perpendicular to the joists - no matter how big/small the rooms are. So...without knowing your set-up, without knowing your subfloor, without knowing the direction of sunlight, without knowing very much of anything about your situation...the majority of the home should follow the rule of thumb. Unless other factors contribute to changing this. Which I can't tell because there isn't enough information. And just for fun...diagonal is always an option = 15% waste and a more expensive labour bill.

Excellent. You MUST run the wood floor perpendicular to the JOISTS. You have NO CHOICE. Perpendicular simply means the wood plank will run across the joist. And now you have to have someone assess the DEFLECTION RATING of the wood/joist system and it's ability to accept tile. Tile deflection ratings are VERY specific. If your subfloor is too thin or the joists too far apart then tile installs become complicated. You need a STIFF subfloor to accept tile. Tile is SUPER heavy and it does NOT like "movement" from a flimsy construction subfloor. That being said and we ASSUME you have a STIFF enough subfloor, it is no big deal to throw down tile. The wood install can be altered IF you add MORE thickness to the subfloor. If you add another 3/4" of plywood to what is already there, you can go in any direction you choose. That's expensive but it is how we get around the "joist" direction problem. The *other way around the joist direction problem is a DIAGONAL installation of the wood. That gets very expensive for two reasons: You need MUCH MORE wood floor waste (15% - 25% waste for diagonal install; compare that to 5% waste for a traditional install) 2. Labor costs are MUCH more to lay diagonally. There are a tremendous amount of cuts which means the installer could need DOUBLE the time. And time is money. Some of these guys charge $50/hour. If you DOUBLE the TIME you DOUBLE the labor costs. Personally I believe laying another layer of plywood is a better/cheaper/faster option if you MUST change the direction of the wood. Again...the traditional/required install is perpendicular to the joists. Everything else becomes a personal choice...with personal financing required.

When I went to change out my upstairs hallway/bedrooms I originally wanted engineered wood floors, but I have a senior dog who pees where she wants and 2 very messy teenagers. So I did a lot of research and looking at different floors in different price ranges, and ultimately went with Parkay XPS waterproof luxury planks. I love the floor! She’s had many accidents, we’ve moved furniture, I’ve worn heels, etc., and no scratches or damage, water wipes right up. My budget was healthy, $5-7 a square foot, and I ended up paying about $4 a square foot with the upgraded padding/underpayment. Seriously I get so many compliments! https://www.parkayfloors.com/product/oyster-gray/

I really like that floor plan, by the way.