GE-PHP9036SJSS is the model we have. 20 amp is ok even though it says 50 amp required? It should still be 220 correct? Amp Rating at 208V50Amp Rating at 240V50

Just bring the range specs to him and have him tell his electrician to check and make sure he wired that outlet to accommodate your cooktop.

Did you mention this to your builder or electrician when they wired the house that this is the cooktop you will be using and what type of an outlet he needs to put in?

I told him a 36" induction. There is no cooktop that would allow for a 12/2 wire.

Is that a 12/2 wire in there? 240 I think it needs to have 2 hot wires in there and 110 a hot a neutral hard to tell what inside that receptacle.

Done Fred, I was wrong on that one... and post it before I checked. Thanks!

It's 12/2

Marisha, I believe this is a cable? You have four of that size in the breaker panel. Odds are, one of them is for the cooktop.

It's not..its part of the drawer...we only have 3 that size

I could be seeing the one on the left of the panel folded... It is generally only AC, OVEN, COOKTOP (3) that need those big cables, but hard to say what you have from here. Unless there is a gas line stubbed also, I can not imagine anyone running less than 10 gauge (30 amp), even if they were guessing... but you clearly need 50 amps here.

They often do not put a junction box onto that size wire until the point you are at right now. Unfortunately, that sometimes means that a lazy drywaller will bury the cable in the wall... See if you can locate all of those big grey cables in other parts of the house before getting too worried.

I would definitely ask for 50A 220 with #6

Those 2 wire together will not work over time!! If you hade a electrician run your wire have him change it as those little wire will get hot trying to run it.

Ken

Wrong wire for 240v 50A. Takes 4 wires(two hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground). If it was old wiring and replacing only the outlet you can get away with 3 of the correct gauge wire (two hots, 1 neutral).

My stove has the 3 prong doesn't have the ground cord and works fine.

New construction would require a 6/4 gauge 4 conductor wire

So I brought this up to the builder who in turn talked to the electrician. Currently, the double oven requires a 40A circuit and they have a 50A to it. The cooktop requires a 50A circuit. Their proposal which they said was fine was that they are going to wire both the cooktop and oven to the same wire/breaker... here is our oven and cooktop:

GE-PT7550SFSS

GE-PHP9036SJSS

I'm so tired of fighting to get things done right. I called the Santa Rosa County competency board and couldn't get anyone yet...but will keep trying. Why is this like this?

You need to find a home inspector. Yes the home inspectors who inspect homes when you're buying a resale also inspect new construction. Find one. Now!

Our home inspector found a number of what were small issues that were immediately fixed. We will have him come in again before we sign off on our final build.

"I'm so tired of fighting to get things done right.......Why is this like this?"

It's like this because no one is taking you seriously because you're not willing to spend any money that not only get's you the "hired gun" you desperately need to do the fighting for you, it let's them know you ARE serious.

Exactly what he^^^ said. They listen because they know we are willing to go beyond and hire professionals to check on their work. This also includes us having a RE attorney ready if needed.

We are working on an attorney as well. We are strongly thinking about terminating him. Honestly just want the house done. But everything is a struggle. We spent the weekend coordinating granite, electricians, and painters because he ignored our texts/calls and had no idea what we were doing. When we confronting him this morning about it he first said he never got the texts and then said "guys I don't work through thew weekend" and doesn't answer texts on the weekend. He was at a car show and didn't want to be disturbed. So we spent our one day off working with the electrician, telling the painter how we wanted things, and the granite guy on supporting the island slab. But the good news is I'm paying $XX,XXX to do someone else's job.

I'm still trying to get an inspector... but based on the specs of both the oven and cooktop I'm trying to see what the power requirements are cooktop = 13,700 watts and the double oven is 8300 watts. So both together would be 22,000 watts. So, 22,000/240 = 91.66 AMPs. Is that correct as far the the requirement for the breaker if both run off that circuit?

Cooktop SurfaceCooktop Burner Type5 Induction ElementsElement -

Left Front7" 2500WElement -

Left Rear7" 2500WElement -

Right Front8" 3200WElement -

Right Rear6" 1800WElement -

Center11" 3700WAmp

Rating at 208V40Amp

Rating at 240V40Bake

Wattage2850WBroiler

Wattage4300W Upper / 4000W LowerConvection Wattage2400WKW

Rating at 208V6.8KW

Rating at 240V9

Just get another Licensed Electrician! Now!!!

The NEC does allow for the cooktop and a wall oven to be on a single branch circuit but you have to add the total amperage of each appliance to treat them as one.

First, a home inspector will not have the capacity for complicated electrical situations.

Second, your last post, starting with "Center11" 3700WAmp" is off. The word amp, and all further suffixes need to move down 1.

NOTE; This permissive code "exception" is something I will never use, but some electricians use it like a get out of jail free card :-/

To do the calculations, you need to know the KW rating of each appliance at 240 volts. (Not 208V)

"Rating at 240V=40amps" is the allowable circuit rating if ONLY the cooktop is on the circuit. (Not the max unit rating, unless there are electronics limiting the total) We need the total KW rating, which presumably would be 13.7KW @ 240 Volts, but not sure from what you wrote. It should be on the nameplate.

The oven is apparently 9KW @ 240 Volts.

Here is the code.

Here should be a fair explanation. Make sure you can get the right answer for the example first ;) You will notice that even electricians have trouble remembering this because it is a cheap route to take that nobody ever intends to use.

http://www.electriciantalk.com/f5/range-calculation-n-e-c-220-55-a-42998/

I also wanted to save money on my build. And I did on things like wall tile, flooring, installing our own ikea kitchen.. and I even have some builder basic cabinets and light fixtures in my bathrooms.

None of these things risk the safety of my family. Electrical is not the place to try to save money or guess or rely on google.

If you do not want to hire an inspector, pay for a few hours consult from an electric business to come out and recheck just to make sure everything is right. If its not, have the pro document it so that you will have this to provide to your builder so that they can fix it.

Good luck. I hope things get better.