Best $50-60 Gift
8 years ago
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60's ranch - first plantings in almost 50 years
Comments (12)The house faces West - so afternoon sun. I should have included that in my first email. The house faces west, and the busy street i'm concerned with borders my house on the north. There's a good sized side yard and a brick wall. So, it's angled, and we don't need the whole wall. It's just hard to visualize without the Photenia's! Thanks for the note on the Photenia's! That's exactly the kind of advice we need. Could you explain what you mean by curve the bed near the street, so it's deeper? I'm trying to visualize and having a hard time. With the photenia's gone, I'll have a semi-circle to work with. You're suggesting a more random smattering of bushes, with ground cover in front and back? If I'm in the street looking at the house, I see ground cover, then shrubs -- behind that is the drive way, and on the other side of that the tree on one side and crepe myrtle on the other. God thought on the planter boxes. There are a lot of creeping/spreading plants that would go perfectly there. Do you think I need to build beds out in front of that, then That's where I really get confused, planning multiple levels/layers. The way the planter boxes are situated, they're nearly full sun with the roof extending completely over. I can have something that drapes over the front but doesn't get much height, so as not to cover the windows. Thanks for the door comment - we do in fact have white sheets (no rod on the bottom), but we're still looking at curtain fabrics. So, there are white sheers with nothing in front of them - and you still wonder about dark windows. That says something about my shade situation! It's definitely brighter with the live oak. How does the tree look otherwise? Your root flare question concerns me. I've raised the soil level perhaps 1-2" in aggregate. I lost a lot of soil over the summer during a series of rains between the house and the tree. My gutters weren't functioning properly, and I ended up with a small stangnant lake between the base of the tree and the house. I had some guys move soil from the front to the back, which helped some, but with rusty gutters, there's only so much you can do. I've been reading up on soil amendments and plantings, and have added compost and expanded shale and topsoil down 6", and mulched over. Net result is more soil around the tree, but every rain since then has taken more away. I was hoping that the wintercreeper would creep out and work to contain the soil. Alternately I've considered building a brick border around the 'bed', to act as a mini retaining wall. the bed is big and I'm not sure I like seeing no break from house to driveway. The circular driveway splitting my yard into thirds is really throwing me off! Thanks for your great tips. K...See MoreOne way to get a Dollar's worth of work for 50 - 60 cents
Comments (3)Thank you for puting giving food in perspective. I to have wondered who eats much of the food donated. You cannot imagine how much donated food is tossed due to past due dates, and the particular product. After all, how many people who really need food, need a can of sardines, chili peppers, etc. Food banks are also given large amounts of donated foods from their main resourse and again much of that is outdated by months and even years....See MoreSinks..50/50 or 60/40
Comments (23)Just to provide another viewpoint, I love my huge Blanco Performa 50/50 sink. The bowls measure 20" by 15" and are 10" deep. We hand wash all of our cookware and use the dishwasher only for dinner plates. I do have a separate prep sink, the Blanco Precis, which measures 20" by 18". The prep sink is used only for prep work and I love the single bowl for that. We did get a sink grid and it comes in handy during my weekly fruit forays at the grocer. I like to wash, rinse and then let all the fruits drain in the sink to dry on the sink grid. For whatever reason, I don't seem to have trouble washing things in my double bowls. It is correct that cookie sheets do not lay flat in the sink, but I have never needed them to in order to get them clean. All of these very strong opinions must have something to do with a person's individual clean up style. The neat thing about my Blanco under mount sink is that the divider between the two bowls is an inch or two lower than its sides, so rinsing off large items isn't an issue for me (the water stays in the sink). I have worked with a large single bowl sink and it didn't work for me. I like to scrub one or two things at a time then rinse and hand to a house elf to dry. So, with a big single bowl, I'd scrub a few things, then run into a quandary when I needed to rinse, since I didn't want to add more water to the sink. It would probably be okay if I only had a couple of pots or pans, but when I cook, I tend to create mountains of dishes. So the single bowl does not work as a cleaning process station for me. As far as a the uneven sized double bowl sinks go, the small one is always too small for me because I do like to scrub a few things at a time. Also, the asymmetry just fundamentally bothers me. It reminds me of the Vanishing Twin Syndrome. What are the people using the small side for exactly? I know I would always be gravitating toward the bigger side, so then I'd have unequal usage of the 2 sinks, which would then lead me to the conclusion I should have chosen the larger single bowl or the double bowl. Be that as it may, when trying to decide between which sink layout is best for you, it really comes down to how you personally use the sink. There is no overarching ideal right or wrong solution, only opinions when it comes to the sink selection question. Here is a link that might be useful: Blanco Performa Sink...See MoreShould I use 50/50 or 60/40 Lead?
Comments (0)Posted by: Calamity_J Sun, Jan 2, 05 at 1:16 I heard that you use 50/50 for leaded glass and 60/40 for foiled. Posted by: stxmona Sun, Jan 2, 05 at 6:24 I think 60/40 is easier to work with and it gives you stronger solder line. Since it does melt at a lower heat...it will melt through sometimes so you have to be careful. The patina seems like 60/40 better too. 50/50 requires more heat and will sometimes gives you a nicer edge. In the beginning I was trying to use only lead free, yikes that was hard to work with and it definitely DID NOT like patina. So it is definitely a personal decision...but I like 60/40 the best!! Toomuchglass Sun, Jan 2, 05 at 12:38 Helpful hint ---- Use 50/50 for your first "tinning" layer on foil seams because it melts at a higher temp than 60/40. Then bead your seams with 60/40 .... which takes less heat - this stops melt-throughs. Been doing it this way for years and it really works !!! mimi856 Sun, Jan 2, 05 at 13:06 and your heat setting should be at? See, I am having troubles and cant quite figure out what it is. I dont seem to get a "flow" going. Toomuchglass Sun, Jan 2, 05 at 17:07 I use a rheostat because I bounce back and forth between lead wrapping and foil ... running a bead with foiling - should be full heat. Once you get it going - play with it .... (on a practice piece of course !) catriona_FL Sun, Jan 2, 05 at 23:59 I use 60/40 on lead and foil. If you can't get a flow going you may have the rheostat set too low. Or it could be the iron you are using. I use a hakko 456 and set the rheostat at about 7/1/2 to 8. for foil and about 6/1/2 for leadwork littlechloe Mon, Jan 3, 05 at 11:06 Re: flow - I agree it might be your iron. Do you have a decent one? I had a cheap one and it made doing anything extremely difficult. Unfortunately, there are some tools you can't scrimp on. If yours is a good one however, then ignore me. Toomuchglass Mon, Jan 3, 05 at 19:23 I learned all rheostats aren't alike - I have a Hakko iron .... and for lead wrapping - I keep it at #7. Foiling - I keep it all the way up - #10. Yvonne Other than an on special, bulk or wholesale buy, it runs the middle ground, silver back and brass are generally higher. Clear adhesive back, 7/32 is usually the best priced and most commonly used....See More- 8 years ago
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