help! Is it possible to adjust cabinet after countertop is installed?
usernamehz
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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Nidnay
6 years agoSolar Texas
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Removing just-installed granite countertops--is that possible?
Comments (2)I would not remove the granite yourself. If you can have her contact another stone installer to see what they can do. It might be able to be repaired in place. Good luck and please becareful granite is terribly heavy. ~boxer...See Morecounter support for island - pics before counter installed?
Comments (24)I would strongly recommend AGAINST buying ANY CounterBalance product... they will completely hose the homeowner / DYI consumer. Just compare the price for the brackets between http://counterbalanceshop.com and http://www.chemical-concepts.com/counterbalance.php The same product will cost you $114 at the first site and $81 at the second. Really??? THEY ARE BOTH THE SAME VENDOR. I tried to place an order based upon the info on the Chemical site (didn't even know about the counterbalance site) and they wouldn't honor the price posted. Don't do business with this vendor who isn't interested in doing business with you. Vendor's words: "I could care less about" selling to consumers. STAY AWAY !!! Find a local machine shop who is interested in doing business at a fair price/profit. The product is a VERY simple job for any machine shop to produce. Chemical concepts doesn't even make the product -- they sell glue. For the person who wanted to know where they could get metal support bars, here is an option: http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/CGI/MWSRCH?N=32003649 I don't have any experience with them, so I don't know if their prices/policies are good or bad. I just found them from doing a bit of searching....See MoreHelp with kitchen counter-tops is really needed...
Comments (42)for the handles, may I suggest something to pick up on the hues in the flooring? A little more copper toned. you have light cabs, light floors. I think throwing in a dark ORB w/o actual copper highlights would be too much of a contrast. IMO. cypress park Sandra, I like the porcelain one better than the other one. Does the backsplash have to be done immediately? If the tones in the porcelain tile you picked clash w/the ivory tones in the counter, it could be a problem. However, I did find some copper toned ones that should be avail. these are porcelain/SS, and treated so as not to stain or tarnish. I LOVE these for your kitchen. timeless and gorgeous. They are probably not super cheap, but it would be worth it for me. http://www.miusartmosaics.com/arabesque-lantern-beacon-copper-tile-in these would also work. the site is here: maybe they have them in stock.http://www.westsidetile.com/arabesque-tiles/ i like this one too. notice the copper faucet. beautiful w/the glass mosaic. if you got the cream countertop, this would look amazing w/your floors. this last one is a copper colored slate/quartzite....See MoreI'm so frustrated! Quartz counter-top installation problems again
Comments (51)Here are a some pics and my dilemma. Keep in mind this is my old fridge...new one comes today! Here is how we ended up with this: I have never had an enclosed fridge so didn't think about the peninsula dying into panels or how deep panels were going to be. I "semi" designed the new footprint and took it to Lowe's where the KD took over. (yes---I know......) Bought Schuler plywood with maple fronts cabinets. Although the kitchen designer had the model number of the fridge we were buying, which is a full-size, she designed the kitchen with 24" deep panels. She knew I was trying to have the look of an enclosed fridge. Being that I've never had an enclosed fridge, it was something I just didn't think of until the install started. Evidently she put a counter-depth in the design program because the elevation sketches she gave me showed an enclosed fridge. "Luckily" the panels actually came in wrong and were cut at only 23" for some strange reason and the installer caught it right away when looking over everything. Otherwise he probably would have installed them and I would be stuck. So called Lowe's to reorder the panels and somehow in all this it suddenly dawned on me that a full size fridge was going to be deeper and require deeper panels. I thought "no problem! Yay I can order them at 30!" By this time the KD had quit her job due to the pandemic. The other KD didn't know what was going on so we called in the Schuler rep. She was the one who immediately told me that those 30" panels would be sticking out in front of the peninsula. She asked if we could move the peninsula forward since the other side is an overhang for seating, but we couldn't since it would bottleneck the entrance into the kitchen down to under 36" and getting rid of an existing bottleneck was one of the reasons for the re-design to start with. So we had a dilemma. We cannot go down to a counter depth fridge which was the other option. What I decided was to split the difference and order 27" refrigerator panels. The fridge without doors is 29.5" so I will have about 3" of the side of the fridge sticking out which I don't like, but while I want my kitchen to look beautiful, I value the functionality too. The old fridge that you see in the pic sticks out a total of 32" The new fridge will stick out 34 with doors but without handles (4.5" of that is doors that would stick out anyway) Here's the really complicated part....we will be installing decorative panels on the end of the fridge as we have them on all the cabinets. This is how you enter the kitchen and I don't want that big blank space there next to the peninsula. The panels should be installed with just 1/4" reveal. I posted a photo below of how the panels look that are already installed on the side of the pantry that adjoins to a 17" high window seat. Luckily those face the opposite way from the fridge panels so you will never see both at the same time. I also posted photos of us holding up panels on the side of the fridge (they are NOT the right size panels...we have to order those still---we just used these to look at the right edge as to how wide to make the panels.) Also keep in mind we can remove the quartz backsplash piece if that would look better. That was not originally planned...the panels were going to sit directly on top of the countertop. So do we order the panels with just the 1/4" reveal to match the panels in the rest of the kitchen? Or, as the Schuler rep recommended, order the panels so they are the same width with the countertop, leaving about 1 3/4" reveal on the right side, but then your eye follows the countertop all the way up. I asked the countertop templater guy if I should just lengthen the overhang on the kitchen side of the peninsula to 2.5" to bring it out to within 1/4" of the fridge panel but he said no....I'm now thinking I should have insisted on it. Especially since we have full overlay cabinets that already make the overlay look very small since the 1.5" planned overhang is measured from the box, not the front of the drawers. Note how small the overhang looks to the drawers. And then of course, they had templated for a 1.5" overhang and I only got 1.25" UGH! Every quarter inch there would have made the reveal on the side of the fridge less. Suggestions appreciated! I'm hoping that I will eventually make peace in my mind with this issue and won't notice it but it is driving me crazy right now. I think of all the things that screwed up just because of this one error by the KD that I didn't catch and I am beating myself up for it!...See Moreusernamehz
6 years agoSolar Texas
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoSolar Texas
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agousernamehz
6 years agoJAN MOYER
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoElizabeth B
6 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
6 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
6 years ago
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