The seam lines are absolutely going to happen and it’s not a negative issue at all.

Ikea with doors from another company.

I would like to select a brand that uses 3/4" PLYWOOD boxes, so I ruled out IKEA. And I'd rather buy boxes and doors from the same brand. Does anyone have experience with, or input on, the quality of Greenfield, Grabill, Touchstone and Signature? These brands are all on the higher end of the pricing at the various cabinet shops I have visited, so I do not want to "move up the food chain" in pricing. Thanks again!

Then do framed if that is the level that your budget supports. Particle board is standard in cabinet box construction for a reason. Get better educated and rethink your must haves.

I’m also interested in this topic. I’ve tried to educate myself, but I am having a hard time figuring out what constitutes good construction and what to prioritize for a painted, frameless cabinet. Could someone elaborate on why IKEA is a better choice than Greenfield or Signature for frameless cabinets, and why the two best routes are either IKEA with some other doors, or a more expensive line than Greenfield/Signature? Also, if there is a resource or document I should reference to learn more on my own, I’m interested in that too. Thanks in advance!

Here are a couple threads that might help you:

[Thread about mid-range frameless cabinets[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/what-are-the-best-mid-range-frameless-cabinets-dsvw-vd~2598489)

[Thread about best frameless cabinets[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/best-cabinet-line-for-frameless-white-painted-kitchen-dsvw-vd~2479509)

[Thread ranking cabinet lines - some should make frameless[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/ranking-semi-custom-kitchen-cabinets-dsvw-vd~2667676)

Hello Nicole! We do not work with these specific brands but do work with brands in the same price point. With mortise and tenon construction, you will see less movement in the door than with a miter constructed door. However, wood is a natural product and movement in the boards is also natural and normal within certain limits. Each manufacturer should have warranty and disclaimer information about this issue for you, available through your dealer. If you maintain the home's temperature year round, this movement should be minimal.

When choosing a designer/dealer to work with, you could certainly see differences in overall pricing. Please keep in mind that cost and value mean different things. One dealer may offer a lower cost of cabinetry, but less value when it comes to service. Go with a dealer that you trust to help guide you through every step - from design to order placement, and through installation. When customers make a decision based only on the bottom line, unfortunately there can be added costs later in the project if mistakes occur. By the time you add up said costs, you end up spending the same. Hope this helps inform your decision!

Hi, Ikea's box back is very flimsy around 1/8 inch thick. Like those cheap Sauder ready to assemble cabinets. I nudged the back of a cabinet at Ikea showroom kitchen, the the flimsy back moved.

Thanks for the feedback. I want to stick with plywood boxes, so I am not interested in IKEA. Any input on the overall quality and finish over time of Greenfield, Grabill or Signature frameless cabinets with plywood boxes? Thanks,

As usual "Sophie Wheeler" is the only one here imparting correct information. High-grade melamine board is just as good as or better than plywood. Especially the plywood they are using on any production cabinets. If I don't back off the power on my drill when assembling I can go right through the 3/4" side panel. Sure there are multi-layered high-quality plywoods available but that's not what you're getting. Mortise and tenon is something else you're not getting that's a through joint mostly used in furniture. "Cope and stick" is how most doors are made (the profiles lock into each other). As for Ikea boxes, I'm doing a couple right now and have no problem with them. Yes the back is thin but it's fine. The rest of their system makes it strong. Standard cabinets will have 1/4" backs. This is really for lateral strength. And there is a way to have doors that won't have seasonal cracking at stile and rail intersection where end grain and long grain run into each other.