I entered a discussion about purple leaves in Capsicum last spring. Following is part of what I wrote. You can review the entire thread if you follow the link below: The most common cause of purple leaves (very common at this time of year)[I wrote this last Apr] is a deficiency of phosphorus (P) because P is required to make ATP and ATP is needed to turn sugars to starch and to load sugar into phloem for transport. No P - no ATP - no move sugars/starches - anthocyanin (purple pigment) builds up - plant turns purple. The most frequent cause of a P deficiency is cold soils, which is why so many plants planted out too early turn purple. A P deficiency is not the only suspect cause of purple leaves. Nearly any environmental condition that puts the brakes on growth and the accompanying use of sugars, but does not limit sugar production (photosynthesis) can cause anthocyanin buildup and purple leaves. If only the outer edges of the leaves are purple, it may be a K or Mg deficiency. If the center of the leaves are also purple, it could be too much Ca in the soil or the result of too much water in the soil blocking uptake of P and Mg. Do not apply a fertilizer with the middle number higher than either of the other two numbers (N & K) to container plants. There is never a need for that much P (relative to N) in container culture unless you're supplying only N in another form. Plants use about 6 times more N than P and the massive doses of P in 'bloom-booster fertilizers' cannot do any good. Al Here is a link that might be useful: I'll take you to the other thread, if you click me

If the plant is grown on a slant the water will fall out from the leaves, these usually grow on hillsides, and their heads will face the sun. The more water you give it this time of the year the more bottom leaves it will lose, the fan is not helping it at all, they do need circulation in an inclosed room, but not directly on them. Check the soil, if it came directly from where you bought the plant change the soil, the plant may not even have roots. These grow in the spring, and like it on the cool side growing on cliff sides or hills of rocks, in Mexico mostly. I also live in So. Calif. Los Angeles Area, we grow ours in the greenhouse and it gets morning sun, and sun from a glass roof top that is high. My training is from the Huntington Gardens for the past l8 years, this plant may be started by cutting off the top and leave 2" of stem, them putting it into an empty pot until it gets roots, then replanting it into a very gritty mix, with very little potting soil . Follow the directions given just above. I have kept my own out all winter long and it did just fine. I check my soil, by putting a chop stick in the soil or a pencil, leave it in 5 minutes. Remember the root ball must get the water that is where the roots grow, not just the sides of the pot. You have a very small plant at this time. So give some time to grow. Best of luck, Norma

Pls. don't be intimidated - I usually get to the point and do not believe saying things just to make reader feel good. There is lots of incorrect info on net, and when new (and even not so new), it could be difficult to know what is correct and what not so much. There are many blogs out there, some are terrific, but many are not and give haphazard advice. I appreciate anyone taking time to 'make a blog' - I would not spend the time - but info is often gathered from who-knows-what sources. We all are learning, all the times :)! IMO, stem cuttings and 'leaves' require same care - neither has roots. If I may say so: you crammed too many leaves into that round container - while it is impossible to say how many will root, if many do - they get crowded too fast and you'll have to start repotting/potting them while too small. I usually leave them to grow bigger before handling: main reason is to get plants as strong as possible, not to damage fragile new roots, and also space! I wait often until mother leaf dries up and just about falls off. It's not really bad, just makes things bit easier on you. Many leaves will start growing even just on a tray or piece of paper. Some may be fussier, but look at these (xGraptoveria 'Fred Ives') - and I am not even trying to grow more of them, have enough. But I knocked the pot while moving it and these good looking leaves broke off - should have put them on compost heap! The main plant has long, naked stem - but I just noticed it is going to bloom (first of these flowering for me):

This is long post, so I apologise in advance :) After cutting top parts off, you could leave all lower trunks with roots potted, and they may grow. It likely depends on how healthy plant is. Here are some 'leftover' stems after tops were decapitated, and they are growing new plantlets and/or branches - they are all different plants:Another possibility is that they may grow from the roots, right at the soil level; here are couple of examples - hope you can see them as they are quite tiny:Top parts that were cut off - cuttings, would be best to let callus = heal just for few hours, unpotted. After that, stick them into well draining mix and let grow. These should be kept out of strong sunlight until they start growing, and then slowly - every few days - moved into best light you have. 8cm pot isn't too small, I would put 2 - 4 cuttings in it, depending on size. You may want to consider another approach: try to get existing plants to be healthier. They may be quite weak from being in very low light. Let them grow for a while, but in better light - I would use those great windows you seem to have. After they get much sturdier, you could behead them as suggested. Cuttings that don't have any roots shouldn't be watered until they start growing roots. You'll be able to tell when you very lightly tug the cutting and feel some resistance - that means roots already started growing into potting mix. Or when new growth starts appearing. Leftover stems with roots can be watered regularly. I would improve the mix for potting them. If nothing else, get a bag of coarse perlite and mix it 50:50 with soil. I would not follow advice you were given - ..." only water with a syringe, only a few drops will do"... Succulents need to be watered thoroughly when all the potting mix in the pot is almost completely dry. That could be few days or longer. It all depends on the mix and the temperatures. That is why you need to improve drainage of the mix and use pots with drainage holes. Plastic pots are just fine (I have about 200 succulents in plastic pots), but if you prefer terracotta, use them. If you have water-retaining mix, plastic or terracotta pots will not make too much of difference. Your Kalanchoe tomentosa needs more light too. They will grow woody and longer stems as they get older. Rosettes should be quite tight and leaves will get rich color in good sun:Pls. ask any questions you may have :)