Fireplace upgrade goes wrong, right? Disportportionate insert, etc.
Emily Kronberg
6 years ago
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Patricia Colwell Consulting
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Floor Plan Review / Ideas for Small Upgrades
Comments (31)I posted the following in the landscape section over at GardenWeb, but hoped ya'll would have some suggestions as well. There is an additional picture there as well which has the plot map with some notes on it. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello Everyone. I have run into a situation in my new construction where I am having drainage problems. Not necessarily for me, but for my two neighbors. In trying to be a good neighbor I'm wondering if you have any ideas to help me out. My property lies between two completed houses. The house to my right (off screen in the picture) was having some drainage issues on the front corner of my lot which is the back corner of their yard. They have trees planted and it is the low spot of their yard where the lawn slopes to. There is a bit of slope coming from their lawn towards mine, but I would only estimate it as 4' over Compounding the problem there is that the drainage ditch along the road there overflows it's banks and comes into both of our yards when there is a significant rain or snow melt. When the county inspectors saw the water there (possibly after being called by the neighbors) they required me to put a swale in my yard going from the front of my yard along the side and all the way to the back yard (light blue in the drawing). Not something I really wanted, but hey... life, lemons, lemonade, etc.. My plan was (in the future when money grows on trees) to make the swale into a dry creek bed with river rock and boulders. All draining to a large pond at the end of the swale (to be built later as well). The pond would probably be roughly a 20' by 30' oblong shape. Also along the swale I planned to put in a culvert and road so I could reach the far back corner of my lot where I will build a shop and vegetable garden. The swale is in now minus any landscaping or rocks and after this springs snow melt the water was running sometimes over 8" deep all the way to the end of the swale and washing out the dirt in the neighbor to my left's tree line. The big culprit, in my opinion was that the ditch along the road was draining through my swale and not through the developers planned drainage to the north (left in the picture). You can see in the plot picture that the easement has drainage heading between two lots to the north of me. Either way, I want to be a good neighbor and try to slow down the velocity of the drainage in the swale and had a few ideas I would like to run by everyone. First, I wonder if putting landscape fabric down and then small gravel in the bottom of the swale (larger rocks on the side and then a few boulders interspersed as well) would slow down the drainage or speed it up? Second, If I were to put in a smaller depression/mini pond along the swale's path before a culvert and road crosses it would it slow it further? Finally, could anyone verify that the pond as a catch basin at the end would be a good solution? I'm hoping that by landscaping the swale now, unfortunately as an unexpected expense, and following it up with a call to the developer and county regarding the ditch flowing through my yard and not their designed location will be enough to fix it. Any thoughts on this and also how to landscape/plant along the swale would be appreciated. Here is a link that might be useful: Other forum...See MoreFireplace Insert OSBURN and other thoughts
Comments (27)The way I figure it, with the type burning devices we've discussed, I one gets a significant heat gain into the house, I know it first hand having many times turned the central heat down and note it doesn't come on all evening while the fire is going. And even when I buy wood, usually get ripped of, never get a full cord, I figure it cost no more, maybe a little less than using the geoghermal heat pump. My only reason for sounding a "negative" was I think it is mostly "sales talk" and "I always make the correct decision" thinking that leads people to think they're going to, or do, save big money burning wood. I think in most cases, some exceptions already noted, we break-even when we consider all the costs. And a cash outlay (or loan) doesn't help cash-flow either, so if you NEED to save to justify, then how long can you wait to earn back the outlay? To the Osburn, check that it meets EPA requirements and best if it has, or at lest claims, to have some form of an "air wash" for the front glass, part of the fun is seeing the fire and the glass on my 20 year old inset gets black and opaque in about 2 nighs of having a hard wood fire of about 8 hours each. I just scrape it off with a razor blade, but it would be better if that wasn't needed more than once a month, say. Too, I draw comfort knowing I can heat my house (if I'm home) during a power failure, this could be a big payoff when contrasted with the cost of repairing damage due to frozen plumbing and the cost of a motel/hotel. Just one time could save enough to pay for the new insert. Enjoy, whatever you decide. >> Best post in the thread, Jerry. The original writer has no experience using wood for heat, and it shows. I recommend a lot more carful thought and investigation before buying. Regarding the glass doors and pipe system---- that improves the efficiency of a conventional wood fireplace from around 10% to maybe 20% ---still a lousy way to heat a home. A fireplace insert or airtight woodstove is the way to go if you want to heat the house with wood. If you have a free source of wood and don't mind a lot of labor, dirt and mess, and heating only portions of most houses, then wood may be good for you. But most people soon get tired of all the work and mess involved in burning wood. Think very carefully if a LOT OF WORK and A GOOD DEAL OF MESS are what you want in exchange for saving some money. And for many homes, a woodstove does a lousy job of heating compared to a central heating system. I can get my living room, dining room and kitchen warm with my woodstove, but the rest of the house is usually quite cold. I've been comfortable sleeping on my living room couch since October because that's the room that stays warm the longest, but most people aren't going to be happy doing that. And I usually wake up to a house with a temperature around 45 degrees ---or colder. But I get my wood for free and I'm a firebug. Even so, I'll probably get bored with all the bother and go back to my gas heat in another few years. Think carefully about what you are really going to be willing to do. Few people will stay with wood heat for long if they have alternatives. Seattle Pioneer...See MoreDifference between gas fireplace and wood insert??
Comments (5)Here is another previous post on the subject: posted by: renron on 12.19.2006 at 07:28 pm in Fireplaces Forum First, DON'T install a ventless fireplace!!! Even though the MFG.s will tell you the exhaust fumes are OK, do you really want to breathe them? Many people end up with Major Headaches and chronic breathing issues. Does it sound like a good idea to breathe burnt exhaust gasses? B type flue(vent) pipes are dual thickness pipes. A pipe inside another pipe, suitable for use at 1" or more to flammable materials. Outer casing pipe is sealed and will not conduct air. D (Direct Vent) type flue(vent) pipes are also dual layers but they are capable of exhausting burnt gas through the inner pipe and importing exterior(outside) combustion air for burning. Think of a straw inside a larger straw. Inside straw blowing, outside straw sucking outside air for combustion. A fan is usually used to help exhaust the burnt gasses. Details below: B-Vent (Natural Vent) gas fireplaces are designed primarily for decorative use. Generally they produce a larger and more realistic yellow flame. B-vent fireplaces are sometimes available without a glass window, so many homeowners are attracted to this design because of the open, realistic flame effect; some models do have a glass window so the existence of a window on a fireplace does not define its product classification. Natural vent gas fireplaces use room air for combustion and vent fumes through a vent or chimney that must terminate vertically above the roof line. The key to determining whether a B-vent fireplace will meet your heating needs is to check the manufacturer's listed efficiency rating (gas consumed x efficiency = heat output). While efficient, heater-rated B-vent fireplaces do exist, many lower quality "builder grade" fireplaces have no efficiency rating and, therefore, will not supply substantial heat. In fact, this category of fireplace will often use the greatest amount of gas at the lowest range of efficiencies. If you live in a warmer climate where you want the aesthetics of a fire without much heat, this may be the appliance for you. Likewise, bedrooms and smaller rooms may be a good candidate for a b-vent fireplace, but please check building codes to see if this class of fireplace is approved in your locality or for installation in the room where you'd like to use it. Local/national codes in some areas prohibit the use of b-vent rated appliances, especially in colder climates. Be aware that very "air tight" houses can cause performance problems with b-vent rated appliances, so please consult an experienced fireplace installer who can advise you on the proper installation and use you are considering. Direct Vent Fireplaces offer the most features with respect to gas consumption, efficiency ratings and venting options. A direct vent fireplace will always have a glass window because these fireplaces are sealed systems using a double walled venting system. Combustion air enters the appliance via one section of pipe while fumes and moisture are vented through the other pipe. Most often, a double wall "pipe within a pipe" system is used. Subject to each model's requirements for distance and offsets, direct vent fireplace venting may be terminated either horizontally or vertically. Efficiency rating will average 65% to 84%, similar to ratings on gas furnaces. Keep in mind that these appliances must "waste" some of the heat produced to create a draft of rising warm air to evacuate the fumes produced without aid of a forced air exhaust system. Think of direct vent fireplaces as a decorative furnace: the beauty of a realistic flame with high efficiency. This appliance is great for primary or supplental heating and for emergency backup heating as most work without aid of electricity. Because this is a sealed system that uses outside air for combustion, direct vent fireplaces are usually the favored choice among those in the fireplace industry because of their greater efficiency and exceptionally reliable performance. Hope this info helps, I am a General Contractor. Renron...See MoreBuying Pellet Stove INSERT and Don't know which to get
Comments (29)HI Jake, I have the QuadraFire 1200i. It's going on its 5th year and has been a fine stove. We have it hooked up to a digital thermostat so it sets back at night, yet is warm and cheery when we wake up. Neither stove will thoroughly heat your house in your climate if the house is not tightly insulated with good windows. If it is really cold outside and blowing hard, then it is likely that your furnace may come on while the pellet stove is running. But the furnace will shut off much more quickly than if it was trying to heat the house alone. Chimney height is not an issue, the exhaust is presurized and will need it's own 3" pipe inside of the existing stack. The Quad and the Harmon are both good stoves. I think the Quad is easier for maintenance, but I don't think you would go wrong either way. If you're having trouble buying locally, consider buying from a NW dealer and have it shipped. They're made in WA so I would expect freight to be approx $400....See Moreamykath
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