Interesting that when Rosie cites examples, this isn't considered adequate substantiation. Proper installation per manufacturer's specifications with proper sub-base preparation and sufficient attention to grading will prevent Yard's alleged problems. It is true that cars parked all day/ every day will prevent lawn growth, but the OP mentioned that such parking would be mostly temporary or sporadic, in which case it should work well, be visually unobtrusive, allow water percolation and not have the downside appearance of a widened driveway that has been piecemealed into service for both circulation and parking.

I don't think the wall sheathing is designed to only be attached around the edges either and will probably warp pretty badly. That's why you'll need studs spaced at least 24"oc in the walls as well. Using pressure treated for the base plates is necessary (as you knew) but the rest is totally unnecessary. Make sure you use galvanized nails when using PT lumber. I'm thinking 4x4s because it will make stronger joints especially at the corners--toe-nailing 2xs together to make a sill seems too flimsy if there should be strong winds. Flimsy? Most houses are built using 2x4s, so it will be plenty strong enough for a little shed. Plus, if you want to make something stronger, it is much more beneficial to use 2x6s than 4x4s. And, if you don't like to toenail (even though there is nothing wrong with that) then build the walls laying on their sides so that you can nail up through the base plates and down through the top plate, and then tip the wall up into it's proper position and attach it to it's neighbours.

Thanks Joseph! I routed 1/8" into the substrate to ensure the sink sits flush with the plywood so there isn't any pitch/gradient difference where the sink is. I weld so if there is ever an issue with the sink I can either fix it in place OR cut the plywood from the underside, knife out the silicone from the top (where the reveal is), and drop the sink that way without damaging the granite. I would likely then use the Hercules harness or other fastening system on the new sink. PS, I've been reading a lot of your helpful advice on Houzz and you're a very knowledgeable and helpful contributor - I've been very impressed with many of your posts! "telluwhat"; Thank you for the question. As stated, my 'execution' isn't poor RE the seam as it is fully supported and hence, no structural issues. I assume you're asking more about the aesthetics? The two slabs that we purchased were 96" in length each. The single run of counter that we needed where the sink is located was 140". The dead center of the window (where we wanted the sink) was ironically 70". From the off-cuts we also needed to save two 24" pieces for each side of our range which is on the other side of the kitchen (so we only really had less than 4 spare inches of granite left after all of the cuts and factoring in blade thickness and our seam placement options were quite limited. In addition, we wanted the 'smallest' seam possible - in every sense of the word. By placing it at the sink, the seam is 4" long at the front of the sink and hidden at the rear by the faucet - it is nearly invisible the way we have it mounted; yet still structurally sound with plywood substrate and 4,000 psi epoxy that's bonding 8" x 3/4" surface area (24,000 lbs of holding strength). A few more pictures so you can get an idea of the seam - these are unedited/unaltered.

Several thoughts: - Are you doing concrete all the way to the road? Around here, people who aren't in neighborhoods /aren't building short driveways tend to have gravel for the majority of the driveway ... then it become concrete maybe 15-20' from the garage opening. The house I grew up in, for example, sat about six acres off the road -- no way anyone would pour concrete /maintain concrete (because dirt will wash out under a drive /the drive will crack) for that length. The house I'm building will sit even farther off the road ... so we certainly will use gravel (the good gravel) for the majority of the driveway. - Have you thought this through from a guest point of view? Side garages are tough in this regard. Imagine you're a guest approaching the house -- you pull up to the end of the drive /next to the garage. Where should you enter? Through the garage probably isn't a choice, but you can't see the front door from where you are. I don't think people tend to put enough thought into the drive /guest arrival. Lots of good choices exist, but you have to think it thought for your own plan. It is better to be a little too big rather than a little too small. Except for the budget, and the OP's said that's a concern.