8 inch or 10 inch columns on our wrap around porch?! Help me decide!!
Shannon
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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One Devoted Dame
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoSummit Studio Architects
6 years agoRelated Discussions
mahogany wood wrap around porch HELP
Comments (17)Thanks for the recommendation. I contacted the manufacturer of the stain (Sikkens) and they recommended cleaning the deck with regular Spic and Span. This weekend I cleaned one of the decks (the cleanest) with a scrub brush & the spic-n-span and I have to say that it did a decent job at removing the dirt & the 'dirt haze' that we are having. I have yet to try the really dirty deck. I'm going to clean that one & see how the deck fairs under regular use( as opposed to muddy contractor feet) over the winter. Next spring I'll re-evaluate whether I should use another coat of the Sikkens or switch to another product. I still love the mahogony, but I think the dark color may prove to be difficult to keep looking clean (out in the country). Thanks for the help!...See MoreHelp! We can’t decide on 2 structural columns or 1!
Comments (52)I can just see someone’s gramma knitting a cozy for a post rather than the teapot. I think there’s a certain dishonesty in all of those looks that makes them far less appealing than if they were just raw concrete or steel. If someone wants modern, and that means support posts, there should be an unabashed LOVE for that structural detail. It shouldn’t be attempted to be disguised like your crazy uncle in the attic that you’re ashamed to have in the family. The current attempt to cross 1002 traditional home details and with large modern internal volumes is what resulted in the horrible atrocity of the NeoEccentric TopHat MishMassAppeal taking over production building. Pop a few Mr Potato Head details on the house of the 70 gables and it’s a Craftsman, or a Folk Victorian, or French Country. Continuing that awkward cross into the interior results in the 10 Acre (Painted) Wood Kitchen, with the Antarctic OutPost Breakfast Bar, where those OutPosts are attempted to be integrated into the whole, by disguising them as Traditional elements. Which does semi work a lot of the time to keep you from bashing your noggin. But, people just don’t have the guts to actually commit to what they are asking home builders to produce. They want a Modern Home, but superficially disguised in Gramma’s apron, pince nez, and hairnet....See More36 inch range hood 6 vs. 7 vs. 8 inch duct?
Comments (16)vinmarks No, in your case I was tempted to write that the VaH can make use of that size duct. I think VaH may be negligent if they don't point out that that duct size needs to be matched on the MUA side. As pointed out earlier, few in the kitchen hood sales chain want to raise the issue of make-up air and the horror it can be to retrofit into a renovation.* But lest others think that they need 12-inch duct for 1200 CFM with conventional blowers in lieu of using 10-inch for typical lengths, I wanted to point out that that would be only a modest improvement relative to getting the MUA in with low pressure loss. Pressure loss is counted from the cooktop to outside and then from outside to inside back to the cooktop. ------- *An example MERV7 high flow 4-inch deep pleated filter, 2 ft x 2 ft in area used to catch the big particles and bugs that the MUA air could pass into the house, used at 1200 CFM (300 ft/min) would have a pressure loss of 0.1 inches w.c. (See table from https://www.texairfilters.com/comparative-tests-on-pressure-drop-of-hvac-filters/ If one looks into VaH data, for example see below, 0.1 inches w.c. drops the flow rate of a dual blower (1200 CFM) hood to 1060 CFM. At 1060 CFM, the filter pressure loss is a bit less, so one really needs to plot filter loss vs flow rate against the fan curve implied by the data below to obtain the expected flow rates (excluding ducts, MUA register, and exhaust duct cap pressure losses which also need to be counted) . And for comparison, using an equation I found on the Internet at the HVAC engineering forum referencing the 2003 ASHRAE Handbook at Page 52.5 (confirmed in my copy) and adapting it with some trepidation to screening as was done at the forum, and assuming a screen of 70% openness across a 12-inch duct at 1200 CFM, the pressure loss is even higher than the pleated filter, reaching 0.7 inches, w.c. With a 15-inch screened duct, 0.1 inches w.c. at 1000 CFM could be achieved. The moral is, use a lot of screen area, or low loss filtering, or let the sparrows in....See More48INCH RANGE? HELP HELP HELP!
Comments (28)95% of appliance people have no idea. MUA for safety. The large draw of CFM (>400) outside of the home has the possibility to create a back drafting issue for water heater, furnace, fireplace etc. As homes get tighter, this becomes issue. Passive ducts and certainly suffice as the fan draw would likely balance and pull air from the passive (near kitchen) before affecting the static near the back drafted appliance. MUA for IndoorAirQuality. Bringing in CFM to replace outgoing CFM will greatly differ if you have the same unit in different locations in the space. There is a design element to this. Very very very few people understand the dynamics and do it well. The goals of safety should be first, then up-effort the design for IAQ, if you are a heavy user and are concerned with air quality above the back drafting issue. MUA dumping into return air duct. Many are suggesting that you dump the MUA into a return duct with a passvie duct. Your homes supply fan is likely not a variable speed fan and will supply a constant stream of air. Not a fan. If it is, the fan is likely controlled to product a min of CFM. This would suffice if they pulled through the return, but it would seem that you are implementing the same thing, just asking the HVAC to work harder to accommodate. My code says that I have to have a MUA for safety...because I have a gas water heater in the basement. Its the only appliance with a back drafting concern. If it was my only concern, I would put a passive damper into the basement near the appliance and isolate any need for the waterheater. The inspector looked at me like I invented fire when I suggested this. There is code, but its not well throught out or substantiated....See MoreShannon
6 years agohomechef59
6 years agowhaas_5a
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agojust_janni
6 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoSummit Studio Architects
6 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
6 years agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoShannon
6 years agoILoveRed
6 years ago
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