Are you doing the reno yourself? If so make sure you can plumb the sink you want

The sink base itself has to be virtually rebuilt with additional parts. Not just shorter doors. Not at all easy for someone who is not experienced in cabinet construction and modification. Not impossible. Just expensive if it goes wrong.

It’s much easier to buy the right sink base or the short apron sink.

Post pictutes of your exact sink base. They have different constructions.

The apron is self facing, but there has to be wood for it to self face over. The upper horizontal frame for the doors will need to be lowered and you will need new doors. If you want to skip new doors you can curtain the sink as long as you don't store anything there that a pet or child could get into and like that style.

curtained sink base:

" i was just wondering if it's possible to do."

Certainly, but I think the question you wanted to ask is " i was just wondering if it's possible to do cost effectively."

No. Get the short apron, please.

Below is the sink base..I'm not currently at the house so I only found this pic online, it's from CabinetsToGo and we still need to assemble it. My husband is doing everything himself and is very handy so I figured it wouldn't be too hard to do. I appreciate all of your advice and will pass it along to my husband. thank you

Altering cabinets so they look perfect is not a job for someone without the tools and skill set to do so I would stick to the original plan and make sure that sink is installed properly in that cabinet.

Import lines like Cabinets to go will not offer enough accessory parts to make this happen. You need the short apron. Or a different line of cabinets. My vote would be for B.

A 30” sink base means a 25” sink. You’re not cramming in a 33” farm sink in that. Cheepchinesecrapola like CTG isn’t worth investing your time or money.

Have you asked CTG if they have replacement doors to do the job? If not you'll have to cut down the doors, remove the center panel, then rework the styles and rails so they fit together and are the right size.. Then you'll need to put it back together, sand well so the joints don't show and re-finish the doors. To do that, you'll need to see if you can get a quart of paint from CTG. You will also most likely have to replace the top rail that goes underneath the apron. My bet is that you'll have to get a new piece for that because it's probably just stapled in and the piece will break if you try to remove it.

You'll also have to build a plumb and level support for the sink, because you'll need that to support the the dang thing. Get over what you wish for and get a short apron sink.

j3nn86:

Here is your sink. Please.

Since you are putting the cabinets together, you can ask the company if they have the face frame / doors for a tall apron sink. The cabinet box would be the same, so they just need to send you the frame and new doors. If you try to cut the center frame piece down yourself, you will need touch up paint or stain because the pieces were painted after they were cut and a small edge of raw wood will show. You will not be able to cut down the doors and reassemble without needing to touch up paint too - even if you manage to get them apart and back together without breaking or cracking them.

I have the short apron and love it. Even if I did a new kitchen from scratch I think I would choose the short apron. I like having the regular size doors - they keep the cabinet useful. The shorter apron gives more the feel of an American cast iron vintage sink (which is closer to a real farm sink) while the tall apron is based on European butler sinks. I have a vintage style kitchen and the shorter apron works very well with my style.

Here is the install directions so you can see how the install is different from a more traditional farm sink.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLHJEXdb5wM

The 100% silicone must be placed on the sink flange before the top is set, not applied topically as shown in the video. Leaks and crud otherwise, I promise.