I have a shower with no curb -- it's designed to be a roll-in. There is a vinyl sweep on the bottom of the door, and there is absolutely no problem with water. On one side of the door we have 3" tiles (the inside the shower part) and on the other 12" tiles (the rest of the bathroom floor). You don't need a chrome strip. All it will do is get grungy. As for French doors, that's fine, if you want to spend the extra money. We have one door.

Hi there, This is my first time posting in the bathroom forum (been hanging out in the appliance section), so I'm glad people have the same concerns I do about cleaning the shower! Apologies in advance if this is a bit tangental, but I've been looking at various shower surfaces for our new bathroom remodels. I like the look of tile/stone but absolutely abhor the idea of dealing with the grout and caulking -- it just seems like an inevitable problem. Those acrylic inserts appear to resolve this issue, but they're just so cheap feeling I don't think I can buy into it. Having recently visited a home show, I think I found a really interesting compromise called stonecraft (not sure if that's just the company brand name or the actual product name -- linked below). It's a plastic/cement mixture that they paint in two layers. The first layer goes on solid. Then they 'tape' the tile pattern you want, then apply the second coat (different colour). When the tape's removed, the first layer appears as the grout lines. I first looked at this for my patio deck, but the more I read into it, the more I liked it for other parts of the house -- including the shower (they even suggest it). My contractor worked on another house that used this outside and it really feels like a stone material. As it's painted on, it should be seamless (walls, floor, ceiling)and, therefore, a breeze to clean! Kind of hoping someone's used this and can share their experience, because it seems like a silver bullet. As for the doors itself, I'm wondering if anyone knows how long a shower stall would need to be to go 'doorless' without getting significant splashing out of water. TIA Here is a link that might be useful: Stonecraft

Thanks folks! I really appreciate it. I've emailed the glass company to see if its too late in the fabrication to accomodate for not using the strike seal. If they've already made it, all is not lost. Since our door and fixed panel meet at an angle, we can probably simply mount the whole thing slightly inside the center of the curb, which would allow us to tighten any gap they've left for the seal... We;ll see I guess! Frankly I prefer the look of just the clean glass edge, so I hope this can happen. It's a small bath, and that edge is very "in your face", and noticeable, and a big part of the overall design of the bathroom....

1. Get a new strip and start from scratch; these things are not expensive and are easy to install. Something is wrong with the one you have, or the installers contaminated the adhesive somehow. I very much doubt that you will be satisfied with the result if you proceed with your idea to glue it on with Loctite. 2. There is also another style that uses no adhesive. It has a channel that is about the same width as the glass in the door, and you just press it firmly onto the edge of the glass where it stays by friction. Types of shower door seals For your information, seals like this are standard because you don't want the shower door glass contacting the fixed glass, so installation with a gap is correct practice. However, if this is a recent installation, why are you not insisting the installer come back and do the seal right?