Have you float tested any if the seeds? Sometimes if they're not pollinated they'll produce empty seeds.

If the tree sows not have another tree to pollinate it the nuts will not be viable. They can produce burs with nuts, but the nuts will not be fertile. If you can email me I will send you information on sending in a tree report form. fajknichols.75@gmail.com We need to know the location of any flowering trees so we can cross them with our blight resistant tree. see https://theconversation.com/new-genetically-engineered-american-chestnut-will-help-restore-the-decimated-iconic-tree-52191

Try this link for a picture of pollinated and blank nuts.

[img]https://s6.postimg.org/4ac9loq81/good_versus_blank_seed_nuts_with_caption.jpg[/img]

A very few american chestnut are self fertile. There is one outside Harrow Ontario that sets nuts on its own pollen. The seedlings grow very slowly from those nuts though, so be prepared to get nuts elsewhere to pollinate any seedlings you start.

1. Is there a way for me to grow, plant nurture the chestnut seeds from these?

yes, plant them in the ground (and cover from squirrels with chickenwire or mesh), or else stratify in fridge (read up on this - you have to maintain them at proper moisture levels or they will rot or else dry out) and plant in spring. pollinated seeds have very high germination rates.

2. Will any seedling from these seeds be infected? Will it become infected?

No, but chestnut will start to become infected when it gets old enough that the bark starts cracking. If you have blight in the area, these will surely become infected after puberty.

3. Is there a way to inoculate seedlings? Once? Yearly?

There is really no defense against Blight. You can try mud packing cankers, but that just slows down the disease. You can also inoculate the area with a virus-weakened version of the blight (google hypovirulance) - again this is really only a delaying tactic. Your best bet is to try Chinese chestnut or possibly a hybrid.

4. Can I grow the chestnut from a cutting and inoculate that?

Same as 3. BTW, my understanding is cuttings ARE possible, but chestnut is a VERY difficult tree to propagate that way. Nuts are WAY easier.

Sorry for the delay in responding. Thank you all very much for your time and knowledgeable feedback.

-- I have not yet float tested the seeds. Most of them were split with the seeds missing; a couple appear to have seeds still in them.

-- This looks like the only AC tree within site, but a few years ago, I'm pretty sure that I spotted a couple more strumped -blight stunted AC trees about 1 to 3 miles up hill on the discontinued section of the road. I'm not sure that I'll be able to get up there this year.

-- It was a hectic spring and summer, so I didn't notice the tree across from us (stunted from blight) in blossom.

-- We are in Central MA and have the darn winter moth. The larvae chew on some of my rose leaves.

-- I will try to put some of the seeds into the ground and cover them with wire mesh. We have gray and red squirrels, chipmunks, mice, voles, moles and greedy wild turkeys. I assume not deep and to plant only if they are viable (do not float) or plant anyway? Thanks for the photo joycelynpei. From what I can see through the crack in the husk, the seeds look like the scrawny ones on the right in your photo, so most likely blanks.

Corkball-- that's too bad that there is no innoculation or remedy. As I mentioned, I'm pretty sure that the seeds are blanks. The Tree trimmers will be here in a few weeks to cut anything close to the service lines. It looks like some of the suckering stems are not yet cracked. Since it's going to get chopped, I may try to get some sticks from it to see if I can make something simple like a muddled, rod, walking stick, spoon or chopstick. Any use for those prickly husks? Door knobs for anyone who is antisocial or owes money?

Nandina -- If any look viable and I get any to sprout, I will be sure to offer them up. I won't have the time to baby them and treat winter moths, but if I can any to sprout, maybe someone living in a more hospitable area could fuss with them.

Thanks again, everyone.

You can tell a fertilized seed because it looks like an inflated football. The duds look deflated. Once you see a 'good' seed, it will be IMMEDIATELY obvious what the difference is.

I don't know what you would do with the husks, but the wood is fast growing and rot resistant, although tends to split easily longitudinally. Good for posts and stakes and stuff.