I am also looking for these plant poles. Fortunately I still have several hooks. They are brass like the pole you talked about. My mother gave them to me before she died but she couldn't find the poles. We moved a lot in the late 60's and they were perfect to hang in any apartment or home we were in. I have search in vain for the poles. Thank you, Nancy R for posting that Miles Kimball now carry them. I checked the link and they do sell them with three hooks for 29.99. A little steep for me. I may buy one just to use as an example for someone to make me more. You all have brought back fond memories of my mother and her love for plants. Thanks

I have tried two types. Type #1 was 1.5" pvc pipe supporting "rabbit" fencing (vinyl coated 3' grid fencing --I used two strips for a 6' high fence). This worked real well through the season, but in a fall storm the plastic bent. I will abandon this method. Type #2 was 2- 2x4x8' put in 30" deep fence post holes, with a third 4' long 2x4 used as a top piece. I drilled 1/2" holes every 6" inches in the boards. I then used apple and pear branches ("water sprouts") and grape vine pieces left over from pruning to make a trellis inside the 2x4's weaving them between the holes in a random pattern, occasionally tying as needed with wire. It is funky, sturdy, looks good, and the beans liked it. I will build more of these to replace the plastic pipe as soon as I prune this spring. Sorry no pics.

If your ground isn't too rocky, dig as deep a hole for your 4x4's as you can manage with your post hole digger. A good gravel base at the bottom is always a good idea. If you use concrete, screw some good size screws in the submerged part of your post on all sides and let them project enough to give the concrete something to lock onto (and still fit your post into your hole). You don't have to use concrete. Gradual misalignment can be corrected. Your concrete laden post might be less likely to shift, but it does get misaligned, it will be a lot harder to re-position. I'm just an amateur but I've done a few of these. One thing I would strongly advise is to build your gate in the opening you are going to use it in. The first time I did this I took measurements and made the frame somewhere else, when I tried it I found it to be a poor fit. Instead get a helper and make a level platform at the height above ground you want your gate to be. Cut the parts elsewhere but assemble your frame right in the opening, it worked a lot better for us. A diagonal brace for the door would be much recommended I think.

We aren't in an exceptionally windy place, just ordinary winds. We did use really large, strong hinges, but I know over time even those will start to give. A drop bar at the top could work with a shorter gate, but ours is pretty tall - hard for us short people to reach - and also, the top is rounded. But it sounds like having some kind of stop both at the top and bottom is a good idea. Having one go the whole length would kind of spoil the beautiful design of the gate, though. We need to be able to open (and close) it from both the inside and the outside at different times. I'm mainly wondering if people tend to bump into the protruding piece, since it's not really in the center of the visual field.