Oh and if you go synethic can you go back to conventional? I heard you can't

back when i was working on cars, the most important thing was not which oil (there where brands that where considered better) you used but that you changed your oil often. in them day's, 70's - 80's we scheduled oil service every 3,000 mi. now they say 7k, new oil? better engines? yes on the oil filter question, seat it and snug it. when you remove your old filter always remember to check that the old rubber gasket came off with the filter. have fun. last question, i got this from the web. i still use cheap oil.

Myth: Once you switch to synthetic oil, you can never switch back. This is one of the most persistent myths about synthetic oil—and completely untrue. You can switch back and forth at any time. In fact, synthetic blends are simply a mixture of syntheticand conventional oils.

Tightening directions for the oil filter should be on the box it came in. Below are generic instructions for most filters.

1. Remove the old filter.

2. Check the old filter and its mating mounting surface to insure that the gasket stayed on the filter and is not parked on the oil pump or mounting surface. If the gasket left the filter and is on the mounting surface, remove it. Use care not to scratch the mounting surface.

3. Put a mark all the way across the top of the new filter with a felt tip or other marker that can be easily seen. Sometimes, a ball point may work. This is to aid counting turns when tightening. You can also use markings on the side of the filter can instead. Use whichever one that can be seen while tightening. Usually, there will be only one trademark logo on the side of the can.

4. Apply a film of oil on the mounting face of the soft gasket. This will aid tightening and lessen the chance of breaking the bond of the gasket with the filter can.

Prepare to screw on the new filter. If the filter is positioned vertical with the entry side up, all the better. Fill the new filter with oil before mounting. You can skip this step, however, it is better for the engine if there is oil in the filter, because on startup, the filter will finish filling quicker to establish oil pressure and oil flow to the engine. If the filter is empty, a few seconds will be needed to fill the filter on startup.

If the filter is mounted horizontally, oil can be put in it before mounting, but position a pan under it to catch the spillage when putting the filter in place. Tip it in place and spin it on quickly.

If the filter in positioned with the fill side down, spillage can not be avoided, but with luck, the filter can be spun on while retaining considerable oil in the filter media.

5. Spin the filter on until the gasket contacts its mounting surface. After first touch, hand tighten only enough to stop spillage. This will be about 1/8 turn after first contact. Tighten an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turns. You'll likely need to use a filter wrench. Do not over tighten. The gasket will swell and increase tightness. If the filter is put on too tight, it will be very difficult to get off for the next oil change. So much torque will be needed that the can may collapse.

7. Wipe any excess oil off the outside of the filter. Excess oil can drip and make it difficult to determine if there is leakage in the following steps.

6. Fill the cankcase with oil up to the top mark on the dip stick and start the engine. Immediately inspect the filter for leakage. If there is none, that part of the job is complete. If there is an oil weep, stop the engine and tighten an additional 1/8 to no more than 1/4 turn. A developed experience 'feel' helps here. Restart the engine and check for leaks. There should be none. If there is, there may be a problem with the gasket or a significant scratch on the mounting surface.

9. The oil level will drop about 1/4 to 1/2 quart after the filter can is completely filled and filling engine passageways. Stop the engine and wait for the oil to run down from the top io the engine. It takes several minutes for the oil to drain back from the valve cover. Oil temperature is a factor. If the oil is up to operating temperature, drain back is much faster. Check the oil level and complete filling the crankcase. Do not go above the top mark on the dip stick. Its ok if the oil level is a little below the top mark. The dip stick should have a safe range. The oil will expand when heated to operating temperature. At the next opportunity, check the oil level when the engine is fully warmed. This will give you an idea how much the oil level changes from cold to hot.

Jem-

Please give him a lecture about tightening (or over tighnening) the drain plug.

lol