LVP next to hardwoods
Carolina Kitchen & Bath
6 years ago
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Comments (16)
acm
6 years agoCarolina Kitchen & Bath
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Family room flooring and rugs
Comments (7)A word about the 'above the garage' concept. Please take a moment to think about this. How COLD do you find the room to be even with carpet? How much noise escapes from the family room with the carpet? If you feel the space is a bit chilly and a bit noisy with the carpet, these two things will get WORSE with LVP. And LVP does NOT like underpad. At...All. There is no way to 'soften' the LVP or 'warm it up' by using underpad. That's not what LVP does. Now to the bigger question: should you continue with the LVP into the space. The designer in me (which I'm not a pro) says 'yes'. The peace-seeking mummy in me says 'No. Carpet is warm and quiet...why do that to yourself?' The option you are thinking about is doing BOTH. You want to pay to have the LVP installed AND you want a massive area rug to keep the coziness. You will essentially pay for the flooring twice. It is entirely possible to get regular wall-to-wall carpet cut and bound (edges finished off) and a nice underpad (use the felted stuff...it does not react to vinyl) cut to fit. You can get a room carpet cut large enough to take up 70% - 80% of the space. Yes it is much more expensive than using one floor.....but it gives you the most benefit. My personal favourite for 'carpet replacement' is cork floating flooring. It will cost the same as the vinyl ($4-$6/sf) and it will cost the same to install ($2.50 - $3/sf). It will offer the warmth and the coziness of the carpet without costing you any more money than the vinyl....See Morevinyl planks or hardwood?
Comments (16)Be very aware the 'thin' vinyl planks you are looking at can and WILL transfer the tile pattern to the new floor. Be VERY aware of what 'leaving the tile' means for your brand new floor - it will telegraph the Versaille pattern to your thin vinyl. To get this to work (leaving tiles in place) you need to have a FLAT surface (grind and fill the tile and then give a bit of coating of Self Leveling Cement. Cost = $1-$2/sf). Or you have to work with the THICK rigid product like 8.5mm CoreTech = $8.79/sf (which is roughly $3-$4/sf MORE than the thin stuff you are looking at). If you work with the thick stuff you will have a 1/2" floor height variation. Oh dear. Or you jack out the tile ($2/sf) and put in whatever the heck you want. Remember: going 'cheap' with floor prep (ie. leaving old stuff in place) can end up to be very expensive and/or very upsetting. Please be VERY SURE you are FULLY AWARE of the issues with leaving the tile in place AND going with cheap/thin vinyl....See MoreHardwood to luxury vinyl plank transition
Comments (5)Sorry but the LVP/LVT or even SPC/WPC product needs REALLY FLAT! Oh...no. The wobbly subfloor = DEATH to vinyl click ANYTHING. Why? Because the click edges are VERY THIN. Any bit of height variation will cause EXTREME stress on the click edges. Any stress on those thin, brittle, finicky, nasty edges and you LOSE the floor's integrity. And you lose warranty. And....and....and. I'm in Vancouver BC, so the extra $5K for subfloor work (by pulling the old floor, etc) doesn't even phase me. Cost of labour in Canada runs (roughly) $50/hour in the building industry. The sheet plywood is STAGGERING right now. Unless you purchase DIRECT from a mill (in small town Canada, that's ENTIRELY possible) you are looking at $3/sf for plywood alone. A tile install normally runs (all-in...tile+labour+materials) $18/sf and up...with prep being the extra (which is why he's saying DOUBLE the cost). Sorry but the 'lay it right over' the old wobbly floor is NOT correct. Everyone will tell you, "You can float it over anything," but they FAIL to mention the old floor MUST BE LEVELED and with a flatness rating that is ACCEPTABLE to the flooring manufacturer. I'd be happier with a STURDY laminate (except this is in a wet area) or an engineered hardwood (watch out for the clash) over vinyl being floated over wonky. Vinyl CANNOT HANDLE the floor height variances. The edges are too fragile, too brittle and too easily damaged just by standing on them over that wonkiness. Do the work. Pay the price and get the correct floor. If not, then just throw down any old 'King of Floors $0.99/sf vinyl' and be happy if you get 10 years out of it. You will replace it by then anyway, and you can pay for the subfloor work at that time...if you need to cap your costs today....but you WILL pay for it tomorrow. It's your call....See MoreHollow sound at installed LVP. What is my next step?
Comments (3)Sigh....so you are saying the GC did NOT read the installation instructions. Sadly (very sadly) this is normal for GCs. A flooring professional (who only does floors) *might have caught this. But often time they do not...because a lot of 'regular guys' do not read installation instructions AND they firmly believe a vinyl floor is the same as a laminate floor (which they are NOT). I will point out the 1/8" (3mm) over 6ft (2m) is too short for a decent 'leveling' but that's not for me to judge. The standard is 1/8" (3mm) over 10ft (3m). Whatever... Now to the nasty solution. The floors you have are no longer warrantied because the install clearly violates the manufacturer's instructions. You will need to rip out both floors (be careful with the vinyl...you must be VERY careful or you will lose 50% of the planks due to breakage of the edges) and start over. Removing the wood = $3-$5/sf (depending on where you live) Subfloor leveling = $2-$5/sf (depending on where you live) Vinyl install = $3/sf (labour only) Extra purchase of vinyl = 25% more due to breakage of click-edges during removal. I'm sorry but this is a complete redo. You MIGHT get the installer to come back...but something tells me that you will not hear back from them...so just be mentally prepared to do this one without any shared costs. And to be clear, it is almost impossible to 'flatten' an engineered floor...which is why you noticed the humps in the first place. The 'guy's' "taking care of it" = do nothing and hope no one notices....See MoreCarolina Kitchen & Bath
6 years agoAnglophilia
6 years agoJAN MOYER
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agosmit2380
6 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
6 years agodeegw
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoCarolina Kitchen & Bath
6 years agoroarah
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoUser
6 years agoCarolina Kitchen & Bath
6 years agoCarolina Kitchen & Bath
6 years ago
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