If the cabinet can be removed then remove it to measure and cut the front where the grill will be installed. If the cabinet cannot be removed the kick plate can still be cut in place with a sawzall. The bottom shelf of the cabinet will have to be sacrificed. You need to do this in order to set the kick space heater. What I do is solder about 2 feet of soft copper tubing to the supply and return connections of the heater and drill two holes into the floor. Then as I set the heater I push these lines through the holes so I can then make the connections to the hot water supply and return in the basement. I then drill a third hole to run the wire for the fan which will also come from the basement. With careful measuring it only takes a couple hours to install a heater. When I cut away the bottom of the inside of the cabinet I leave several inches around the perimeter so after the installation is complete I cut a piece of sanded plywood to the inside dimension of the cabinet and screw it down. This gives access for service to clean the heater or remove the motor if it ever fails. It also a good idea to have shut off valves for the hot water and an electrical service switch in there for ease of service

Yes it will work just fine. Primer is primer, whether it's acrylic or oil, both are formulated to accept either topcoat. Michael

Oh geeze, Chess Woo hooo you win! I would never suggest people here are not intelligent enough to be able to read. Occasionally people read these threads and might have wood and could benefit from the information or some might even own other wood furniture besides the painted.

Here's an article for oil VS water https://homeguides.sfgate.com/oil-vs-latex-kitchen-cabinet-refinishing-72017.html When I resurface furniture I prefer oil primer & oil paint due to it's durability and quality of spread. I have more success with oil over water base when painting wood. White is tricky due to yellowing sheen, however there is some oils with less sheen that are made to avoid yellowing. I have heard water base has become better over the years, but I personally have not found a product yet, I could guarantee. With my clients, I will not risk the possibility of something going wrong with painting cabinets. Technically I could, I have sold lots of painted furniture & I specialize in airbrushing. But, a kitchen is used everyday with lots of moving parts, so I shy away from the potential risk. If my clients really want to paint cabinets, I suggest a reputable cabinet refining company with warranty. I will not put new countertop on until after 3 months have gone by & any faulty paint problems like chipping, peeling, ect has been ruled out. Patience pays in this situation. I am more cautious & think about the future results & durability than a quick remodel. The reason why is I have met several clients who needed to redo their kitchens due to a failed paint job not wearing well in 3+ years. They tried fixing & fixing & said never again. They wanted new cabinets. Unfortunately, they had to get new countertop, too. Of course, I'm helping people with problems with paint jobs. I'm not getting calls from the people who got a good, durable paint job. I only suggest painted cabinets to sell or flip a home to show better. I would only have factory finish spray cabinets in my kitchen, because factory finish is superior. I cook daily and hard on my kitchen. I would paint a vanity or built in that is not taking a beating , but not a kitchen. So, to sum it up, I go with the Pro refinisher who warrants his work or new factory painted cabinets. Whatever you choose, I wish your project success.