Which paint to use on this dresser? Chalk or latex/acrylic?
I need advice from some experienced furniture painters! I have a beautiful Ethan Allen dresser that I want to paint white. It's 20 years old and I am trying to re-vamp and update my bedroom. I am hearing a lot about chalk paint and how easy it is to use, but I do not want a distressed look. I want more of a solid coat with some sheen. Here is my dresser:
and here is my bedroom inspiration:
and this....
I have painted furniture with latex paint, but there are a lot of steps and waiting time (priming, sanding, several coats of paint, sealer, and more sanding between each step). Would chalk paint give me the look I want and last as long as latex or acrylic paint?? Thanks!
Comments (11)
PROAaron Holland Painting, LLC.
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Question for those who have used chalk paint - - -
Comments (22)I have used AS chalk paint on several pieces. At first it was to see what the excitement was all about, and I bought only sample jars when they were much less expensive than they are now. The sheen is VERY FLAT, and personally, I don't care for it without wax. I have not bought the AS waxes, but I have Butcher's Wax in clear, and Briwax in both light brown and dark brown. All of them protect and (to me) enhance the appearance of the chalk paint. This was a black and gold CL mirror that I did in blues and grays in AS chalk paint. I then used Briwax in dark brown to get into the carvings and add a bit of sheen to the mirror. BEFORE - AFTER - I experimented last year with a maple bureau that I bought from Craigslist. I put on patches of several colors (both chalk paint and regular latex in different brands). What I found was that the chalk paint stuck to the unsanded finish like glue. When I made my decision to go with a chalk paint color, I found that I could easily remove the latex paints by just running my fingernail over them. THAT is what I like about the chalk paints on furniture vs. the other types. This is the bureau that I mentioned above, still in progress. I used AS Paris Gray, and I am decoupaging fabric to the drawer fronts. In order to preserve the color match between paint and fabric here, I will use the butcher's wax in clear when I finish this one. I am replacing the knobs with chunky 'English style' knobs that I have painted in the AS Paris Gray. And before I started it, in the seller's garage -...See Morepainted latex over oil paint -- please help
Comments (12)Sorry! I should've stated that better! You can topcoat most primers in 2-3 hrs. Dont' leave a primer unpainted for more than a month. They get too dried-out and brittle. I should've said... >>> Once the primer and paint are applied, the adhesion process of all coats takes a while! You don't need to sand out ALL the gloss. * Just a moderate "dulling" of the existing sheen. * It's subjective...but I'd keep sanding if I could easily see a reflection. * I'd maybe drop down to 100-grit for the 1st pass. Then, a quick 2nd-pass with ~150-grit. * If you're near a C2 dealer, the C2-SAP (Sandable-Acrylic-Primer) is great for this kinda work. This is neat for REAL fussy applications. After priming, this primer sands nicely for extra-smooth topcoats. Faron...See MorePainted cabs: acrylic, latex, oil? Colors?
Comments (10)HulaGal - Ours was sprayed on by our cabinet guy, but I actually brushed/rolled on our pantry cabinet paint because we decided to do a pale blue-grey color after the cabinets were installed. The rolled on paint is nearly as flat and smooth as the sprayed paint. I also brushed on the trim paint around our marble countertop, and there is nary a brush mark to be seen. I don't have any pictures of the kitchen cabinets because they're not installed yet, but here are a couple of our pantry. I don't know if they'll be helpful or not, but can you seen the slight sheen in the first photo? That might give you a sense for how "shiny" the paint is. (And I don't think I said so before, but the paint says "interior smooth enamel.") From Last Import And in this one, you can see the primed trim piece at the back of the countertop, and the blue base cabinets. The trim isn't painted in the picture, but as I said, I have since brushed it on and it as as smooth as can be. Hope this helps some! From Last Import...See MoreIs my trim oil or acrylic? And which SW formula should I use?
Comments (11)@functionthenlook, I took advantage of the 40% off PLUS had a $10 off coupon that they honored. Great deal! @4Heidesign @paintguy22, the paint is from the mid-80s, at the latest. Although the alcohol test hints latex, a part of a doorway leading to the kitchen that was recently painted over in latex is peeling, so to be safe, I will probably repaint with an alkyd as was suggested by the contractor. There's a lot of trim, too much to sand, in my opinion. Thanks for your tips and suggestions!...See More
Stephanie S
6 years agoUser
6 years ago
PROBeth H. :
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoIf you aren't adept at painting, it can be challenging. cleaning, sanding, deglossing, priming, sanding, painting, sanding again, laying down even coats w/the brush,,,etc.
the only paints I recommend for furniture are the chalk paint, milk paint and if using the acrylic, BM advance, SW pro classic or GF Milk paint. Never use straight latex wall paint.
Chalk paint is simpler and can look the same. you just don't distress it!
this is how I did this one (I've painted over a hundred vintage pieces with every type of paint you can think of)
this particular one was done with ASCP in Old Ochre. 2-3 coats. It's entirely possible to paint with chalk paint and not do any distressing. you will need to fine-sand after every coat to get a super smooth finish.
I'm posting a close up shot so you can see the sheen. I only used a clear wax. If you don't want the distressed edges, then don't sand the edges and remove the paint! Just sand enough to knock of the rough feel of the paint. ( I would use a very fine sanding sponge for that purpose. just be careful around the edges.
if you knock off too much paint, just brush over it w/extra. not a big deal)
I obviously stripped and stained the top. I sold this one, but the finishes hold up beautifully. just use a coaster if you will be putting glasses on the top. wax is not waterproof.
another frenchie I did w/chalk paint. 3 different colors!
functionthenlook
6 years agoStephanie S
6 years agoStephanie S
6 years ago- PRO
Beth H. :
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoStephanie, this is no cure time. after waxing and buffing (like you would a car) it's dry. chalk paint dries quickly. within an hour or so. sand it smooth, then wax and buff. I use a nice clear BriWax and a cotton t-shirt. (do not skip the find sanding step. chalk paint dries rough. take a 220 or 320 grit and lightly smooth it, and it will have a huge impact on the finish coat and feel)
If you do an acrylic paint, it will take you longer and you will have to wait a week or so for it to cure. I've done many dressers w/that paint. They're a lot harder to do well. Especially the top where you don't want to see brush marks. I've given certain pieces 5-7 coats to get a smooth finish.
this is one I did for a customer w/glossy acrylic enamel. The top is like glass because I spent hours getting it that way. between the sanding and priming and painting, it took 4X as long as the chalk paint.
If you don't want a super glossy look, then choose the chalk paint. It will b fine for your bedroom. the finish is durable. every year or so add another coat of wax to the top if it looks like it's waning. Or, forgo the wax and do a clear coat poly on the top. either one will work.
Porter Edun