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Need to transplant crabapple tree this weekend

6 years ago

I need to transplant my gladiator crabapple (to the left of the arbor) that was planted last summer as I have built an arbor and now the tree is too close. The tree gets sun after 11:30 am in the summer but because of the fence/2-story houses) the lower portion of the tree is shaded most of the time. Since my yard is so tiny I only have two spots the tree can go. Both spots have their problems. 1) I can move the tree over 6 feet to the left from where it is now. It will still get sun but have some slight shading especially later in the season as the sun goes lower in the sky. The area is also quite moist as my yard drains that direction. The soil is heavy clay which I plant to amend the whole bed next spring. I also plan to plant the tree in a slightly raised mound to aid in drainage. 2) I can move the tree closer to the deck but it will be shaded until 12:00 pm and the area also receives some of my drainage water. There is landscape fabric and rock under the deck and my patio has compacted road crush under it. It seems neither spot would be ideal for this tree but I already have it and it needs to be moved. Where do you think would be best for the tree? Please excuse my messy yard!

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Comments (3)
the bigger problem i see.. is how you will be able to remove all the crab suckers.. with the shrub there .... unless they are planted 3 to 5 feet from the tree how far were you thinking of planting from the trunk ... and how much water do you think a tree or a shrub needs ... except for the year of transplant.. neither of these plants EVER need water ..... and in the transplant year.. you let the soil nearly dry in between waterings.. so one should not affect the other ... learn how to water PROPERLY ... is my best suggestions ... and then plant whatever you want .. wherever you want good luck ken
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Comments (4)
It would be best if you do the moving while they are dormant. They should be waking up very soon with this mild weather. I know my crabapples are pushing new growth already here and little north of me. If the basement is for safety purposes (tornado shelter) that takes priority for me. I would then have to transplant them now. I would not wait until April. If the project can be put off until they are dormant this fall, since you like them so much, I'd do that ideally. Remember, small crabapples are pretty inexpensive, you could just start over. But transplanting in the growing season is not a death sentence, just a lot of work keeping them alive and disease free in the harshest time of year (summer) with a massively reduced root system. John
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"Should I be pruning the tree or fertilizing it to help regrowth?" Those are the two worst things you could do for your tree. Both would just add to your tree's stress and make recovery less likely. At this point, you should keep a close check on soil moisture, both in AND around the rootball. If the soil in the tree's rootball is different than the surrounding soil and/or if you used amended soil to backfill when planting your tree (hopefully not), it's possible for your rootball to dry out before the surrounding soil, or, for your rootball to stay moist even though surrounding soil is drying out. The soil at the surface should be allowed to dry out in between waterings, but be sure the soil at root level (about 1" to 2" below the surface) stays moist, not wet. Don't let the soil at root level dry out.
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Comments (4)
it shouldnt hurt you at all .... but as far as the tree is concerned.. you would have a much greater chance of success.. if you did it the weekend after the leaves fell off in late fall ... at that point in time .... the tree is dormant above .. but it is the most active time for root growth ... and there are two cool seasons.. before the heat of next summer ... in zone 5 ... its just a matter of stacking the odds in your favor .... but if it has to be done.. it has to be done .... ken
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