You probably realize you're waging an uphill battle having tropical plants that like a humid environment, which I understand well, only in reverse. I have an affinity for succulent/cactus plants that find all of the rain here downright offensive sometimes. Obviously you like these plants as much as I like my Kalanchoes, Senecios, and Crassulas, which likely bore you to tears with their ubiquitousness. The grass is always greener, right? I'm sure, very sure that humidity, or lack thereof is a much more pressing issue in NV than steamy AL, so I'm going to stay out of that part. That said, in addition to whatever factor low humidity might be, Dracs are known to be sensitive to the fluoride in tap water. If you are able to provide rain (I know, you live in a desert, that would be occasional,) distilled, or condensate from an A/C, those are sources of water without fluoride, chlorination, lime, or any of the other substances that make their way into tap. Maybe not every time you water, but any time you could, it would help. Most of these substances are not able to evaporate if water is left sitting, though letting any water reach room temp before using for plants is always a good idea regardless of its' source, whenever possible. From the presence of the drip tray under the pot, looks like there's a hole in the bottom of the pot. If you are able, taking the plant to a sink so you can pour copious amounts of water on/through it, can help prevent a build-up of any substances that might be offensive, from tap water, fertilizer, whatever. Maybe not every time you water, but the more the better. Has it been in the same pot for a long time?

Hello from Texas, Putri, and congratulations on your purchase. You did not mention the variety so I will assume that you purchased a mophead, a.k.a. as a French Hydrangea. All hydrangeas will do well in a location where they get four hours of morning sun or less. Dappled sun under trees will also work. Full shade locations (like under some trees) will limit the number of blooms that the plants produces so do not choose location where the sun does not reach and where indirect sunlight from the other surfaces does not. Also, locate the plant label that comes with most plants and verify that the hydrangea can be planted in your climate zone. In northern climates such as the Northeastern States, you can even plant hydrangeas in full sun but, in more southern locales like Texas and Florida, I would select a location where they get shade starting around 11am or they might suffer from sunscald. Some hot locations may actually be too hot for hydrangeas as they need also need to go dormant during winter months. Note the estimated size of the plant at maturity and pick a spot where the plant will fit; you do not want to have to transplant it in later years and you definitely do not want to prune it every year either. Most mopheads will need about six feet. Your location should have soil that drains well. Most hydrangeas will tolerate some clay in the soil but Oakleaf Hydrangeas will quickly suffer from root rot if allowed to get their feet wet for long periods of time (months). The availability of moisture in the selected location is important. An overhang in your house may prevent rain from reaching the plant so make sure the soil can be kept moist, not wet. It is best to allow the soil to almost dry and then water. On a new plant, you may need to water it one gallon of water once/twice a week, depending on the temperatures. Watering slowly and deeply is best. Because new plants suffer from wilting due to moisture issues, I suggest that you manually check the soil moisture daily by inserting a finger into the soil to a depth of 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm). If it feels dry or almost dry then water; otherwise wait. Then observe how often you have to water (every 2/3/4 days and set your sprinkler to water 1 gallon of water on that schedule. When temperatures change by 10-15 degrees F and stay there, I manually check again to see if I need to water more. If the plant looks EXTREMELY wilted, give it some water immediately. But in most cases, try not to water a plant that is wilting if the soil feels wet; in most cases the plant will recover by bed time or next morning on its own. Wilting episodes start at the end of Spring and end in the Fall. In northern climates, you can fertilize new shrubs with 1 cup of manure or cottonseed meal in June. Remove the mulch, water, spread the fertilizer and water again. Here in the South, I fertilize twice, in May and July. Keep the plant well mulched with 3-4 inches of acidic mulch up to the drip line; and maybe a little past that if you live in a hot location. You may not have to fertilize on your first year as most potted plants already contain slow-release fertilizers (can you notice some of those fertilizer colored balls in your pot?). If your soil is not acidic, you may want to amend the soil in spring with aluminum sulfate or powdered Sulphur to prevent the leaves from developing iron chlorosis. Chelated iron products can also be used. Some plant nurseries sell a pH measuring kit that can help you determine the acidity of your soil. These kits are not accurate but should provide you with a good guesstimate. Kits that give you numbered results are better choices than others which just say that the soil is acid by color choices (it is hard to remember the exact hue of the color you had on prior tests). pH Levels between 5 and 7 are best. At approx. readings of 6.2, mopheads will begin to bloom blue flowers; above that they will bloom pink flowers. You can also grow hydrangeas in pots too. Does all that help you Putri? Luis

I'm going to chime in with a bit of a jerk comment (albeit a well-informed jerk comment) Please get rid of the Nandina bamboo. My absolute least favorite plant. I grew up in construction, and currently work part time lanscaping/part time remodelling houses, and whenever I see Nandina in a yard I know that I have a -hell- of a job cut out for me. You'll never be able to get rid of it once it's established, and personally, I don't like the way they look. Maybe how much I hate the plant has tainted my vision, but I really dislike the way they look. Now enough of the jerk comments, time for the fun stuff. I'm going to go ahead and echo what others have said here, a needle palm would look great there. Honestly any kind of cold-tolerant cycad would be great there, as needle palm sure aren't the most exotic. They're simply the most available. Personally though, I have 10 gallon needle palms in my yard (pretty slow growers, and mine haven't been in the ground for a year yet, so they're still about the same size). They didn't mind the snow and ice, they didn't mind the recent flooding, they're awesome plants. Fair warning: make sure to inspect any palms you buy before bringing them home. Some have some nasty infestations on them.

http://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/plants/1336/mini-penny-royal-majestics-hydrangea/ Based on the description here it sounds like it might be remondant. I would trim the spent blooms. If it reblooms they aren't usually as large as the first set. At least mine on my Endless Summer never were. Maybe Zi just needed to fertilize them better. If you can plant it outside they like an eastern exposure/morning sun, lots of water, organic matter, mulch and excellent drainage. It should also do well in a pot of you can mimic those conditions. Make sure you take it out of that foil if it was on it.