Tho't I might jump in here though I am no long a mixer. Over the years having read all the articles about mixing soils and trying many of the recommendation, I have become lazy and it works for me. So here is what I do and have had wonderful results, better than the mixes and drainage recommendations I have tried in the past. I buy the big 3 cu foot bags of Stay Green at Lowes and use only that. The more expensive bag seems better to me but the plants don't seem to appreciate it any more. Inside, I try to never water enough to make water come out the bottom holes. The plants will stay watered for up to a month in the winter if the humidity is high and not too much sunshine on the plants. Outside, all summer they get watered, sometimes rain falls for 3-4 days and they are horribly saturated and no rotting. In the fall, I pull out the bulbs (1 gallon or bigger pots--I like tall) and usually find the soil hard to find for all the roots totally filling the pots, especially at the bottom. No rotting. If that packed with roots, they go in a large pot. If not, they stay in the same pot. Inside, I remain a coward and am very careful with the watering. Works for me. I do believe fresh soil helps the growth, but it doesn't seems as important for amaryllis as for other plants. Just add some long-acting fertilizer. I totally agree that the condition under which the plants are growing is extremely important so ones results don't necessarily translate to other places and circumstances. I have written this for the lazy ones among us who may feel guilty not mixing soils. I have also found that the water may make a big difference, alkaline and hard or soft water like rain water. If using a mix with peat moss watch out for acid conditions after some time passes. If using hard water and not putting out in the summer, it is necessary to change soil occasionally, or put plants out in the rain to wash out the mineral buildup. This is important. I have learned to like the summer rains. I think it helps to have good ground contact on plants outside in the summer. It draws out the extra moisture.

Unless you're going into RL Paint, it's mostly meaningless. Every companies colorants are a little different...some a LOT different! Different brands also have differing levels and shades of white in the native tint-base. I make this color somewhat frequently, and 98% of the time, it's into RL paint. Sometimes customers want it into C2 paint, so that's another formula! Faron

From what I can see of what you show above, you don't have the 'base' listed, although it's likely a white or light one. That is printed on the label. I'd ask your friend to take a picture of the can itself, showing the label, and also there should be a sticker on the cover of the can showing the formula. If she can get a close up of both of those, I would think a Ben Moore store could help you. Or perhaps the store where she bought the paint has a record on file under her name, which your local store could call and get.

If you don't mind paying more, Farrow & Ball Hague Blue is a beautiful blue (I have it in my dining room). But none of us can recommend anything in good faith without knowing what you've already tried and eliminated. Also, I am not sure what you mean about formulas. Are you trying to match specific colors from different brands (like Benjamin Moore, Behr, for example) using another brand? I've had problematic color matching more than once and I would not recommend this.