is the tile already installed? If not , you can leave channels/rabets/dado for the glass to sit into. You can also just have a very close fit and it probably won't be too bad. Steam is dense so it's not going to rush out of a small crack at the joints, it will escape so it depends on the rest of your design as to whether you can work with this. The weather stripping looks horrible and kinda defeats the purpose of frameless IMHO. Glass guys offer standard advice: frameless and steam showers aren't good company. It can be done, but you really need to design and refine all the details from the outset. Sounds like maybe you waited too long to involve the glass people or the steam generator was an addition.

You have valid concerns and we take extra measures to acommodate steam vapor escape by treating the ceiling and/or adjoining painted surfaces outside the shower with usually an oil based primer and sometimes topcoat of paint . Steam rooms require a few things to be just right and if so you shouldnt have excessive release of vapor. Starting with the proper sized generator for the "adjusted cubic ft" A proper glass install with the acceptable tolerances ( we use sweep and bulb gaskets to compensate for minor inaccuracies and zip our steam showers up and then utilize the transom.) A transom smartly placed in relation to the Fan that also needs to be the proper CFM for the room and other hvac concerns,. Our fans are always on a timer, and preferably jumped on the same circuit as the showers interior light. You want the fan on from the start of the shower and remaining on for 30 +/- mins after you get out. I always suggest opening the transom and swinging the shower door IN to the shower when done. On this steamer ceiling we used the existing bathroom fan and planned ahead and had the painter coat our cedar install with sikens marine grade topcoat. Hope that helps a bit in your effort to rectify your concerns.-best

There really is no "brand name." They are considered custom doors and they are not sold by Kolher for example. The glass is measured for your application on site along with hardware requirements (clamps and hinges), and then the glass is fabricated. There are online places you can order from if you want to install it yourself. If your opening works for a french door set up, I would recommend that. All you have is 2 hinges on each door...no tracks, sweeps, etc. Makes a very clean maintenance free set up with no silicone. If you do it yourself...measuring is KEY to success. Neat to be super accurate and provide the fabricator you opening dimensions, they will size accordingly. And if your opening is out of plumb, the out of plumb dimension needs to be communicated to the fabricator because the glass SHOULD be cut out of square along the wall side (you will not notice this but the glass will "hug" the wall better and reduce the out of plumb gaps a straight cut would reveal). Custom doors can get very pricey!!! Shop around. You will find a very wide range of pricing...big mark ups for installation in my experience.

Creative Tile, I also have heard good things.....my plan has totally changed, you can search my name and find my design thread. I'm now doing a 48" neo angle. I want to go USG because they make the custom pan with the drain where I want it, and trimming these pans will obviously create some strange aesthetics at change of plane w/ wall. Problem is, no one wants to sell me one! Here in NJ, only distributor within 90 minutes are HD stores. I call them, and they don't know the custom pan exists. Local tile guy has Wedi, but very pricey, and it doesn't seem ideal for a neoangle curb, also no custom pan. I'm assuming you may have a connection with someone who will sell me one? Online USG email support for neo angle sent me back to uninformed home depot, and a general instruction which doesn't address how to wrap the 135 deg. angle. I'm going to call them one last time, if not I'll take my chances with kerdi membrane with a mud deck. 1 question on the USG product...if i go with the new ultralight foam, does it require full membrane, or just the seams? If it requires full membrane, should I just use fiberrock as it will probably be much cheaper? Any ideas how to do the 135 neoangle curb, I'm probably just going to borrow kerdi methods over at johnbridge, and use the sealant for any questionable corners . Thanks so much for your help!