Floor drain for washing machine overflow drying out
Comments (9)
bantaj
6 years agoThe pan has a threaded connector to allow the pan to drain into the floor drain. The threaded connecter sits proud of the bottom of the pan by approx 1/8" so if I just pour water into the pan now and then, most will drain out but not all since the threaded drain creates a small lip (see attached photo for example. It also creates a potential opportunity for a leak which is why I'm not crazy about the idea of just pouring water in the pan. Instead I may snake a small 1/4" or 3/8" tube into the drain and have that run under the washing machine and up the back so I can fill it from up top and keep the pan pretty much dry.
Anyway, I'm surprised I'm having to go through such a DIY solution as it seems like this would be a relatively frequent problem for this type of floor drain/pan setup.
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Comments (9)I think you will have serious issues with suds lock in that long 3/4 inch PVC pipe. However, it will come down to you usage patterns and your specific application and equipment choice. Is it a top load? Top load has to pass about 10 to 14 gallons per fill out that little tube fairly quickly. A front load may have only 5 to 8 gallons to get out. Had the horizontal tube been 1.5 inch or 2 inch, you would have a higher success rate. If a top load, does it have neutral drain (pump all the way out before attempting spin)? Speed Queen does not have neutral drain and would have a tough time with this set up, it would burn out the belt quicker attempting to spin the load with water, might even eject water over the tub cover. An old whirlpool top load would likely pop the splutch from overload over time, a time consuming repair for the average Joe, but at least the part is cheap. You will definitely have more dry time as a result and more loads where the motor current detection software will keep it from going to top speed. If you have an electronic model with some flexibility you may be able to program a little more spin time. But be aware, spinning is generally what wears out the machine. If it had a default spin time of 5 min, changing to 6 min will take away about 20% of the expected machine life. Spinning wears the seal and bearing systems in particular as well as the pump, shocks if front loader, and pivot element if a top loader. High in rush currents are harsh on the motor if the load is high. Siphon risk? Hard to say. Most units have a duck bill back flow preventer just downstream of the pump so that after the water leaves the pump, it can't return to the machine. But generally you want the outlet at the drain pipe to be above the top water line on the machine. Your local inspector would likely not be very happy! Good luck. Laundryvet...See MoreWashing Machine Overflows Pipe
Comments (3)Ask on the Plumbing forum. And give a description of the lengths of the pipe, the traps, distances between various parts and so forth....See MoreCould use a hand picking out a washing machine/dryer combo....
Comments (4)The 4000 series are not stackable because Miele didn't design them to be stackable. In order for laundry sets to stack, they need to be specifically designed so that the dryer interlocks with the washer below. In the case of Miele models that are stackable pairs, this requires removing the top of the washer and the installation of a stacking kit, allowing the two appliances to be securely fastened together. I'm guessing Miele didn't design the 4000 series to be stacked because the stack would be too tall for most people to see or reach the dryer controls at the top. Stacking unmatched appliances not designed to interlock in a stack would potentially be dangerous, because short of welding the two units together, there'd be the danger that the dryer could fall or slip off from the top of the washer. Washers and dryers shake and vibrate while in operation, increasing the risk. There is, however a way to accomplish a variation on a stack. It would involve building a very strong shelf above the washer on which the dryer would rest. The shelf would have to be substantial and be tied into the framing of the walls or supported with strong timber or steel posts. You would also need some method of securing the appliance so that it couldn't slip off, if vibration caused movement. Going this route, the dryer would be above the washer, but technically, they wouldn't be stacked....See MoreDrain hose separated in washing machine and water flooding
Comments (5)If you can find the right size screw clamp (like the one you have shown in your pictures), that should be more secure than the spring clamp. Tighten it as tight as you can without cracking/breaking the plastic the hose is connecting to. I wouldn't use any adhesive as it would make it difficult to remove if you need to replace the hose if it forms a leak. Make sure the plastic and the hose are clean and dry. You may want to use a fine grit sand paper to scuff the plastic and inside the hose to make them less smooth....See MoreBruce in Northern Virginia
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agobantaj thanked Bruce in Northern Virginiabantaj
6 years ago
Quick post to close the loop on what I did:
i purchased a new leak pan to replace the cracked one. New pan came with a threaded pvc fitting, nut and rubber washer to help seal against leaks that the original EMT solution was likely to have.i ran a short length of 1/4” vinyl tubing through the leak pan and down into the drain opening (no grate as one person thought) and ran the other end up behind the washing machine and connected a barbed fitting as seeen in the photos. This allows me or the wife to squirt some water from above once a week or so to fill the trap very easily.
i realize this is not ideal as one shouldn’t have to do this but for the budget and effectiveness (no more sewer gas smells), I am pleased.
Thank you to everyone for the suggestions and feedback!
klem1