No need to spray it. It's very unlikely you have any foliage pest that would match the symptoms you describe. From the rainfall you mention, Desifern is probably correct. Simply too much water. Peach trees are very sensitive to drowning. I've lost lots of peach trees from soggy roots. Sometimes a peach tree will die of drowning in a spot, but another spot just 20' away may have just enough drainage to allow a peach tree to live. Since I've started planting my peach trees in mounds, I've yet to loose one from drowning. My guess is the tree got enough water stress, it's trying to reject the graft. Strip off all the growth below the graft, and watch to see if any new growth appears above the graft. If it does, do as Frank suggests and prune to allow the new growth to take off. I wouldn't go to great measures trying to quarantine any root pathogens from this tree. Phytophthora is pretty much ubiquitous in wet soils anyway. Whether it's phytophthora or wet feet, planting your next peach in a mound will solve both types of root problems.

I'd add in, "Listen to your architect and builder." This adds the caveat to make sure they know what your budget is and that you will LISTEN to advice on maximizing it. I've had both of them explain calmly and gently that something I wanted to do is probably going to be ghastly expensive. And then proffer an alternative that helps get closer to what we want without spending needlessly. If you listen at the front end of the project regarding siting, design, and site development, you'll save yourself so much more money than can be squeezed out of the budget by altering finishes at the end. Some things I've just had to give up on entirely, but I think I'll be happier in the long run for having heeded professional experience. Now, I'm not trying to build a house for $50/sq ft or otherwise get ridiculously under the market rate. But my husband and I were just talking about prioritizing our budget. Which, for us, means spending money on the things that either cannot be changed or would be very difficult to change later - structural elements, windows, etc. Finishes can be upgraded later, built-ins can be added, etc. I find that if you are upfront with most professionals you work with about wanting to be cost-conscious, they'll suddenly become a font of information about how to do so. It helps to be friendly, polite, and not condescending when you do so. Often I've had this happen when I go to one of them and say, "I'd like to do A, but it's sort of expensive." It is not unusual for the response to be, "Well, if we do B, C, and D over in these other areas of the house, we can probably free up enough of your budget for A. And that's really cool, and now I want to do it, so let me go think about it some more." Most of the time, they go think about it, and then come back with an even better idea. Cultivate your pros. They know so much more about their craft than a youtube video does. (Side note: Most of them also seem to like homemade chocolate chip cookies). Also note that this approach is more likely to get you what you want than telling them, "I want A, and Google says that it shouldn't cost me more than $X, so I think you should do it for that even though you quote more."

Do you really think the living area and kitchen will be that dark with there being windows on all 3 walls of the breakfast area and lots of big windows on that living room wall???? To answer your question, yes. My last place was a condo. I had floor to ceiling sliders in the living room and dining area. My kitchen had no windows and the layout was kitchen>dining room>sliders to the outside. My windows faced due west. Even in late afternoon with the sun low in the sky, the light didn't penetrate into my open kitchen and my kitchen was only 11' from the sliders. In my second house, my dining room never saw any natural light. I had a 3 season sunroom right off the dining room and it had windows on the south, east and west wall. That room was only 10' deep. No light ever penetrated to the dining room. I think some of you are used to a much fancier life than we are haha 😅 This has nothing to do with fancy and everything to do with good design. My first house was a small (1600 square feet) bungalow on a 40' x 100' lot with a detached garage. The house was built in 1927 and the bedroom/master bath was added onto in the 60's. Even in that small bungalow my bedroom had windows on two walls. And my kitchen had an actual window over the sink. For example I grew up in a bedroom with windows on only one side and I survived just fine. I dont have the time to lay in bed and stare out a window anyway. It isn't only for staring out a window. It's also for cross ventilation and natural light.

I should think the cold cellar would work. I have two of these plants, both grown in containers. One is about 4 years old, the other close to 3. They remain outside year round. I am pretty sure I bought the second after the first winter with the first. I have year round hummingbirds and they made such a fuss about this plant and it was so dad-gummed colorful, I wanted its presence in my garden! I was afraid the first never made it through the winter - it was very late to come back to life. But it did!! So because I was impatient, I now have two :-) All of this is to say that Vermillionaire may be somewhat more cold tolerant than expected. Obviously, I am not in a zone 6 climate, but the plants easily survived winter temps down into the 30's and perhaps even a dip into the 20's for a short period of time. I bring nothing inside for the winter (other than my outdoor summering houseplants) because I have nowhere to store - no shed, no garage, no basement. I am continually surprised at what non-hardy plants (but not true annuals) manage to survive unattended outside all winter....and a great many in containers!