I assume it's a concrete pool deck (no stone or tile overlay) and it's getting poured right up to the back of your coping? If so, your LA friend is right, you can't expect a 2" slab over top of a bond beam not to fail. Out of curiosity, did your contract specify a minimum thickness for the slab? It's hard to tell from pics so I may be wrong, but that doesn't look like you have 4" of slab behind the bond beam either.

Stop. I read your other thread. You've got an engaged group of people there trying to help you, and this new post makes absolutely no sense without the context of the other thread. So delete this post. Calm down. Post follow-up comments on your other thread. Use short, precise sentences like I've done here. You are *not* better off dead. You have a purpose in life and the world needs you. That is true even when you don't feel it. John Lennon said it well: "it will be alright in the end. If it's not alright, it's not the end." Or if you prefer biblical authority: "I know the plans I have for you...plans for hope and a future." Best of luck, truly.

mandy has the right idea, you should be able to figure out yourself, or your plumber can help to check. Personally I'd be surprised if the smaller model wasn't sufficient. I think the way to understand it is this: the water heater's size determines how quickly you can replenish the storage tank (or recover from all the water being used), and - at the margin - continuously heat. The storage tank's size drives how much hot water you can use in a short period before running out. Bottom line is basically, how many of your seven people take a shower in a short period of time? Does everyone expect to have a shower within a single hour in the morning? On paper, your 120 gallon tank would cover 4-5 standard showers, likely less than that in practice with other needs (handwashing, kitchen usage, etc). The 50k BTU heater should have a figure for recovery in gallons per hour - perhaps something like 50. That's basically its maximum output. It would then take two or three hours to heat up your large storage tank (whereas your current 200k unit would fully recover in an hour). The hot water heater itself will have storage (50 gallons?) to include in your calcs. It sounds like your current set-up is more or less sized to be able to meet maximum likely demand at all times, with no significant recovery period - i.e. it might be able to meet all demand without the storage tank just by running the heater. Of course, keep in mind there are losses in the system and the real world 'hot water at the tap' will be somewhat lower. So you should be able to figure out how to test this. But fairly simple logic test - if everyone takes showers at different times of day, likely no problem. Even spread out over 2-3 hours you may be fine. If everyone takes two extra-long showers a day and all within the same time periods, maybe not. A few additional thoughts: -Of course, keep in mind laundry and dishwashing needs. But also check if they even use household hot water - mine do not, they heat water internally. (Then considerations of when you run them, of course). -Have the plumber check the storage tank - it'd be a shame if it started having problems right after, and they're likely the same age. Also note, assuming this is gas-fired, it's not a bad thing to have a smaller one running for longer periods. (I'm also a bit surprised there are only two sizes available - surely there are in-between sizes available, like 75k or 100k BTU?) I'm in a seven person household, too - and in my experience it's rare that everyone takes showers within short periods. I can't compare my set-up (household heat and hot water from same boiler), but on paper I wouldn't think the extra expense worth it, just based on our actual usage. Of course, if you're the last person to shower after everyone else and you can't stand even once running out, you might think differently.

Wow! Ok...the good news is you are getting the ENTIRE floor sanded (including the treads) and refinished. Excellent! That's what is needed at this point. Now for the treads...MOST stair treads are RED oak. That MIGHT BE why the treads take the stain a little differently than the WHITE OAK flooring (make sense now doesn't it?). The Loba HS 2K ImpactOil is comparable to Rubio = oiled finish. Here's the link to the GERMAN website (not the USA...the European website is MUCH better for product information). https://www.loba.de/us/products/natural-oils-and-waxes/natural-oils/product/hs-2k-impactoil-color/ The ImpactOil is NOT compatible with the surface finishes like Invisible AT. Do not mix the two. Now...onto the colours. Loba makes their own stains. The original floors had "white line" syndrome = the finished had BONDING FAILURE throughout the home. That was the original problem (regardless of the flooding). The stain was INCOMPATIBLE with the FINISH (whatever the finish was). This is the very reason why you should NEVER mix chemical families (Loba + Loba = success; DuraSeal + DuraSeal = success). The ImpactOil is new(er) the the N. American market. The VERY FIRST THING I would ask the refinishers is: Have you attended the Loba training classes? You are looking for a 'yes' when it comes to both the Invisible and the ImpactOil. If you need support, Loba is just a phone call away. They have their N. American headquarters in N.Carolina.