What should I do with indeterminate tomatoes after the growing season?

jshar2004

6 years ago

This is my first time gardening, and I'm in zone 10a (Bay area, california). I planted some indeterminates back in May/June in large pots. They grew to be 6ft tall and produced plenty of fruit. Now it looks like the harvesting season is coming to an end. The last tomatoes are ripening, branches are turning yellow, and I haven't seen any flowering for a while.

My area hasn't hit frost in a couple years, so I was expecting to be able to just leave the plant out all winter and by the warm season, it will already have the established root system and should be able to produce heavily early on.

Do I have the right idea here? Should I prune heavily in preparation for the end of summer? I also have eggplants which I planned on doing the same for.

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digdirt2

6 years ago

What you describe is an option of course - especially if you prune them back to approximately 12-18". But it isn't the standard practice, even your zone, as the new growth and production, if any, the following year on plants that are carried over isn't near the quality you'd get from starting with fresh plants as most do.

As an experimental leaning exercise why not plan to trim back a few of the healthiest plants to try carry them through till next season. That way you can learn what all is involved in the way of continued work, watering, feeding, and support for them to survive. Then plan to pull and dispose of the rest so you can work on soil improvement or plant some winter crops. That way you can compare the results for yourself.

Dave

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Comments (9)

daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
6 years ago
Look up "perennial tomato". Lots of info about them There are tomatoes that have been kept going (and producing) for decades. Be inspired ...

https://www.wdwinfo.com/news-stories/tomato-tree-in-epcots-land-pavilion-breaks-world-record/
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Well, judging by his handwriting (Parkinson scrawl) I believe he was up there in age when he sent it to me. Over the years I've come to the conclusion that the one who gives me a tomato, having been the one who maintained it over many years, has the right to name it. So I try not to change the name they give me. I have distributed Baker Family Heirloom via informal seed swaps, and I think in the next couple of years it will start to gain in popularity. Just in the last two of years I've probably sent out 30 or 40 packets. "Heirloom" has certainly become an abused term. I know at least one seed company which calls all open pollinated vegetables "heirlooms." When I first started seed saving in earnest I was drawn to the unusual. Over the years I've recognized that there are some superb tomatoes which are simply... red and round. After ten years of gardening in Oklahoma, I've concluded that I really need "hardy and dependable." Our conditions can be truly awful. Now, back to the original post here, after reading more carefully I am not so sure I'd recommend Baker Family Heirloom for container gardening. The plants are truly huge and have very extensive root systems, which is a big part of why they are so hardy and productive. I suspect this variety might require a REALLY BIG container in order to thrive.
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User
6 years ago
No, you do not have the right idea. Diseases and pests, reduced fucundity, cost of replacement, plant maintenance.
daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
6 years ago
Sorry, but diseases and pests have no particular preference for a 2nd year tomato plant. Not sure about "quality" or "fecundity". Last year's stems will certainly not have the viability that fresh stems would, in producing fresh foliage and flowers.
jshar2004
Original Author
6 years ago
Thanks for letting me know guys. That's a bit disappointing to hear because one reason I even got indeterminates in the first place was because I thought that since it only dies at frost, I can reuses it next year if I get a warmer winter.

Oh well. I'll still try and preserve my favorite tomato and see what happens.
digdirt2
6 years ago
While it is partially true that "only frost" can kill them you also have to take pests damage, any disease issues, and overall health due to nutrient levels, water, method of support, etc. as all can have an effect on the plants ability to survive dormancy and kick back into gear come spring.

Like us, if we had a really hard summer/fall or an accident or injury we will make it through the trials of winter but not nearly in as good a shape as we might be otherwise. ;-)

Dave
whypraytellwhy
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Jim Mat, did you mean 'fecundity'? Not fucundity? Right?
nancyjane_gardener
6 years ago
jhsar, I'm also in the bay area (Sonoma Co). There have been a few winters that we haven't had a frost and I actually had tomatoes into December and once January, but the quality wasn't there.

We went from 1 lb tomatoes in aug-Sept to little 1 1/2" guys in November/December. Even though there were no freezes, the plants looked very sad/diseased. Nancy
oscarmatic
6 years ago
jshar, I've been successful this year with cutting back my indeterminate tomatoes to their one or two healthiest sprouts nearest the base after harvest. I'm one beautiful red ripe tomato into my second harvest, with several more on their way. The one plant with no good sprouts and sickly leaves got pulled entirely.

At best, you'll have a warm winter and a second harvest. Probably some fertilizer, patience for slower ripening, and protection from pests will help. At worst, nothing much will happen and in spring you can pull the old ones and pot up new ones. Nothing to lose in trying, eh?

What should I do with indeterminate tomatoes after the growing season?

digdirt2

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daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)

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What should I do with indeterminate tomatoes after the growing season?

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