Back Yard- Landscaping and Using Patio Area More
Theresa Doan
6 years ago
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Patricia Colwell Consulting
6 years agoTheresa Doan
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Help with design of yard backing to common area
Comments (9)It's a pretty scratchy sketch but I think you can get the general idea of pinching off the distant open view, making your yard a bit more courtyard-like. With exactly what plants and exactly how I'm not specifying, but the planting beds which flank the yard could be brought toward each other as if they were creating a gateway, but without a gate. Given that you have the large tree, it could either be an island unto itself, such that a grass path separates it and the planting bed behind, or you could incorporate it into the landscape bed behind so it is all one peninsula. What we're employing is psychology. When you make something look like a private space, people are somewhat more reticent to look into it. Or at least get caught doing it. Also, since you'd be reducing the actual "gateway" opening to your yard, there'd be physically less opportunity to look into your yard while someone passes by. If it was me, I know I'd be donating a lovely tree to common area in order to block the view of the house beyond. When it's discovered, the amount of time someone might think "something's wrong" is gong to be less than 3 minutes. And then no one will care. After all, who's going to kill a tree just because it appeared out of nowhere?...See MoreHelp Needed for Back Yard Patio Project
Comments (6)I'm with Yard on the paver size. Large format pavers are hard to work with, even for experienced crews. One 16x24 weighs 72 lbs, according to the Menards link. Keep in mind that you're not just plopping them down and moving on. Odds are, because you'll be learning as you go, that you'll be pulling pavers up and putting them back multiple times to get a smooth, even surface. Plus, I don't know what the quality of the pavers are, but generally box store pavers aren't the greatest. That can mean being slightly out of square or other issues that are magnified when using a bigger paver. I'd do a 4x8 border and a 4x8 in a herringbone or running bond pattern. In terms of your questions: 1. suck it up and make the cuts. Go slow and take off a little material at a time until you get good at it. This is another reason to use smaller pavers if you're not confident about the cuts! It's way easier to piece together a curve with several smaller pavers than to try and cut a clean arc in a slab. 2. Rectangular is fine, but if you feel up to it I like Yard's concept. I wouldn't waste time putting curves against the planting bed. Soften the edge with plants and you'll be fine. The curves in that inspiration photo are a terrific example of what NOT to do. Squiggles aren't good design. If it looks like a roadkill rattlesnake, don't do it. 3. border the whole thing unless you have a compelling design reason not to. I don't see a reason not to. 4. if your house has red brick avoid pavers w/ red in them. The red pigments in clay bricks and the red pigments in concrete pavers will never look right together. Don't skimp on your base, and don't forget to pitch the patio slightly to shed water. The biggest thing is don't rush. Stand up and step back frequently, because your surface can start to get "wavy" and you'll never see it from 2-3 feet away. When I built my first paver walkway in 1995 I tore it out and redid it 3 times because I was impatient (and, at 20, kinda stupid)....See Morebig ugly brick wall in back yard? Also need patio space? Sloped yard?
Comments (7)Yeah, my little guy and our full time jobs have obv pretty much consumed all the hours since he was born not quite 2 years ago. lol...But, the pots I had started pre-him are actually all my gorgeous hostas that are just sprouting and now need homes ;_; The big pots are my hydrangeas that are coming out as well. I didn't want to put any into the ground since I wasn't sure of the plan for our yard. I would like to keep them potted and in our hopefully semi shaded new patio wherever that may be. The weeds on that upper part have been a struggle since day 1. The tree roots sprout new shoots constantly, so weed killer becomes difficult. Not to mention, the roses we had inherited with the property became diseased so we are in the midst of pulling them out as well. Believe it or not, we had a full vegetable garden year before last which is why I was hanging on to the empty pots as we do not have great soil. Long story short, I am looking to have more livilable space that doesn't include more weeding, watering, and gardening in our outrageously hot summers. If I put a patio in the corner between the windows and the retaining wall, what would be the best surface? raised wood type? Gravel ? would gravel hinder drainage and made the ground underneath even more soggy? same issues with brick? Even if I had concrete poured and connected it to the existing patio what kind of drainage solution would we need under and around? These are my beauties from last spring....See MoreHave a vision for back yard, need landscaper's knowledge/experience
Comments (7)I'd venture to say that a masonry sitting area on wet ground could become problematic over time. I'm not sure of your temps in MD but freezing + thawing = heaving. Wetness will exacerbate that. The proper installation of pavers requires a good bit of prep - digging deeper than you think, installing drainage material, compacting, then stone dust, compacting, etc. The roots of that large tree will likely be a problem and the tree could suffer if it's severely hacked. It's really tough to ascertain the slope or degree of moisture without being there, and generally, the degree of wetness changes with the seasons. Of course any plan will have to meet the elevation at the fences. It doesn't look like there's a lot of space to swale or berm. You need someone who really, really knows what they're doing if you want to address the drainage and elevation. There are a lot of well meaning contractors who will have varying degrees of expertise and mangling those trees roots could be trouble. If you want to pursue it, do that area first, as equipment like a bobcat needs access and will compact all surrounding soil. Personally, I would plant that wet shade slope area with lovely shrubs and perennials. Here's where a full service garden center with knowledgeable staff can help you compose a nice design. A backdrop of site appropriate shrubs (summersweet/clethra alnifolia?) and just three or so varieties of pretty shade plants will fill that area. There are some striking perennials for wet shade with features like tall floral spires, enormous leaves, or delicate foliage. It's a good opportunity to embrace a challenge. As someone else noted, large drifts of the same plant have a more cohesive appearance in groups of 3, 5 or more....See Morelittlebug zone 5 Missouri
6 years agolittlebug zone 5 Missouri
6 years agoTheresa Doan
6 years agoTheresa Doan
6 years agoYardvaark
6 years ago
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