Good points, Dave. In the case of those two branches, I'm actually less concerned with backbudding than avoiding mechanical damage every time I move it, making it easier to fit it in with furniture and other plants, and just not having it be so ugly. Then I can work on guiding new growth next season, since it's clear that it's strong enough to respond well to pruning.

I'm just frustrated at the moment. I had such great ambition, but I was so out of it this summer that it took too long to assemble mixes and supplies, so I never got to repot anything, then kinda forgot that pruning needs to be done earlier in summer, and then spent almost all of August unable to use my left hand at all because of an injury. So I guess I'm looking for any kind of win.

Sorry, I replied to you and didn't even look at who I was replying to!

I know that you know the correct time of year to do so. Sorry about that.

If you don't care about back budding and just want to get rid of those wondering branches, I don't see why you couldn't still chop it there right now.

Then maybe stick it under a grow light for the winter. I got plenty of growth from my scheff all winter by doing so.

Why not just prune to the first leaf node? I prune my plants before taking them in for the reason - to make best of space and to reduce shading of other plants. It also makes the air flow better and so less chances of pests.

why couldn't you just stake those long branches for now and wait until spring to chop it back?

Andrea, staking them wouldn't accomplish anything. They're not leaning; they grew that way because they were reaching for a distant window, so their 3/8" stems are completely rigid.

TOC, I considered that, but it would still be too long for the final composition. Despite the timing I expect to see a little bit of new growth this season, which will help fill that side in when the plants go back outside next spring.

Thanks for the suggestion, Dave, I think that's what I'll do.

I've decided to improve my simple lighting setup by hanging some 36" lights in two of my windows, which are 60" high x 40" wide x 12" deep, perfect for 36" grow lights, or fluorescent fixtures with T2 bulbs, if it's cheaper. My window A/C blocks the bottom of the third window, so I'll put an 11" shelf above it for the shorter plants, and mount some 2x2s on the window frame for the clamp-on work fixtures I used last winter. That particular window gets very little light, so I might try putting something reflective (mylar?) on the window to help things along.

On another front, tomorrow or Monday I'm going to plant up a new pot of basil I picked up yesterday at Trader Joe's. Last week I pretty much killed the one I've been feasting on for the past month, and I simply cannot survive without handfuls of basil for my caprese salads, so I'll separate the new plants and put them in 5:1:1 in some big pots that have been taking up space in the closet.

TOC, I just looked at it again, and realized that the longest branch has some new budding just a few inches from its base, so I think I'll follow your advice for that one. The backbudding is so dense that I have to put my glasses on and push things around to see what's going on in there!

Funny you mention Trader Joe's basil plants. We have two growing and they're out of control. Both are in the 5:1:1 mix in full sun.

They grow so much faster than we can possibly use them. But I keep them trimmed so they won't flower.

The bark in my first small batches of 5:1:1 holds precious little water, meaning that they need water every other day outside in our dry conditions, but both the orchid bark I bought a few months ago and the new bag of pine bark are more absorbent, so it should work better for a tender herb.

I was doing pretty well getting enough new growth from the little plants I tried to murder, and I'm going to replant the survivors in case they come back, but the new pot has five healthy plants that should be easy to separate. Last night I discovered fungus gnats when I watered the pot, though, so I'll wait to repot until I can get mosquito dunks from the hardware store.

I plan to freeze any basil that I don't snarf down by pureeing it in olive oil and freezing it in ice cube trays for a refreshing break in winter from cooked sauces.

Oh, just for the sake of tidiness I've decided to make the cut you suggested rather than leave a few inches at the base of the longer branch. The base of the plant may end up hidden by foliage, but I don't need any more stubs sticking out of the main stem!

You need to post after picture(s) for our viewing pleasure. On a similar front I had been hacking away at a purple leaf basil all summer to see if I can give it a bonsai look. It is already more than two years old and pruning it is a pleasure.

Yes, pics please!

Tropic, would love to see that too!

I want to see a picture too!

I ended up pruning where Dave recommended, and I put a short cutting in a pot of turface to see if it'll root. The 10" Fiskars folding saw I bought on a whim some months ago was handy, even if it's a bit big for this kind of work. I thought I'd have to get my dozuki out, but the folding saw makes a really smooth cut that let me shave the stub down until it was flush with the main branch and needed just a little cleanup with my utility knife. I gave the wound a thin coat of waterproof wood glue to see if the bark, such as it is, would roll over and close the end, though I'm not sure scheffleras do that.

The plant does look a bit thin in the side view without the long branches sticking out, but now that I can get a better sense of its potential I'm actually starting to like it again.

ahhh so much better!

Great LB- looking very good.

Dave I will try to remember to take some pics of the basil plant tomorrow in daylight.

I might as well ask a lighting question too.

Do my plants need light from the sides, or will diffuse light from overhead fixtures be enough to help areas that are shaded from overhead light by leaves at the top? Long tubes will provide some lateral light, but will that be enough?

I'll need to control the expense while making sure my setup is as effective as possible.

Thanks!

Really depends on plant size. Something small and compact with do fine with a T8 or similar.

I think your plant is still small enough where you'd be fine.

My big Ficus has T8's overhead in the winter. I only get growth on top and nothing at all on the sides.

Makes for a lot of trimming.

In that case I'll put everything under the fluorescents and some of the worklight fixtures, and will only need my torchier pole and one or two worklights to add side lighting to the 3-4 foot tall bunch planted ficus and the dense mass of leaves that extends down to about six inches from the soil. Thanks again!

I have a scheffela tree that fell off o f a 3 foot shelf. I transplanted it after drying out the roots. It's been a week, and now it's looks to be dropping leaves anbd stems. What can I do to save i t?

vernakay, did you remove all the soil from the roots and then let the roots dry out completely? If so, I'm sorry to say that the plant may be a goner, because all the fine white feeder roots that take up water and nutrients will have died when they dried out. I know that many succulents need their roots to dry and get a callus on the end if they're injured, but regular houseplants and trees like your schefflera need their roots to be kept moist when they're transplanted or repotted.

If you think some of the roots inside the mass may have stayed damp enough to survive you should wait to see if the plant comes back. Meanwhile put it in the sunniest spot you have, and water lightly. You want to moisten the soil, not saturate it, because the new roots also need air for oxygen, and will die and rot if the soil is wet rather than moist.

You have my sympathy, because I've murdered plants in all sorts of ways. Try not to be discouraged, and just put it down as a lesson learned that will help you keep the rest of your plants happy and healthy.

Lenore

I was following instructions on how to save my tree. I was told by a nursery, to dry out the roots first. Then put it in fresh soil.

The nursery misinformed you. I have no clue why'd they say that.

That practice is usually only done with succulents.

They should know better than to tell anyone to dry out a scheffeleras roots before repotting.

If you truely removed all the soil and let the fine feeder roots dry, they're dead.

your only hope is to chop the top off the plant, put it in soil and hope for it too root.

Photos will help us identify if it's too far gone.

V, that makes me mad. There is no scenario which would justify that. I'd consider calling the manager and telling them that this guy pretty much ensured your plant would be ruined. But that's just me; I'm kind of pushy that way.

Do post a photo if you can, because Dave and I would love to be able to tell you that there's still hope for this plant, even if you have to cut it back and wait for it to fill out again. If even the bottom little bit of a stem is viable you might be able to coax it into putting out new shoots. Scheffleras are pretty tough, in my experience, so you never know.

I don't know what things are like where you live, but the word "nursery" doesn't mean anything around here except that they retail plants. In fact, the two stores with the most knowledgeable and helpful staff call themselves garden centers.

Hmm: Majid jafari just posted exact same words that I had written a while back in this thread. And then a link to some power tools in Arabic, I think. Strange world.

Dave, I have yet to post the basil pictures but my camera's proprietary usb cable stopped working and a new one is due today.

There may be a bit of miscommunication regarding the dry soil suggestion. It is easier to remove a plant from its pot when the soil is a bit on the dry side. Especially it is a clay pot. The reason is that the soil shrinks a bit when it is dry and detaches from the pot - mainly on the sides of the pot. It also makes it easier to chop the roots and rake them when it is a bit on the dry side. This works for up-potting since it is much quicker and the remaining roots are never let to dry out completely. For bare rooting I would mist it frequently or put it in a bucket of water after the initial removal of roots.

However, it is never a good idea to take a plant out of the pot and let it dry in open air. Even for succulents as long it has any fine roots.

Vernakay: Take cuttings and root them. If the plant is really droopy remove some of the leaves to reduce its water needs. I would take out at least 50%. Water the plant very well and let it drain out. Tilt the pot at 45 degrees to drain out excess water. Cover the rest of the plant in a large enough clear plastic bag to make a mini greenhouse of sorts. If needed prop up the bag using a few sticks in the soil so that most of the leaves/branches do not touch the bag. Tie the bottom of the bag to the pot loosely. For large plants I wrap a drop cloth. Poke a few holes in the bag so excess humidity can escape. Every day open the bag for 10-15 minutes. Leave the plant in a very bright area out of direct sunlight. And then hope for the best. I have revived many plants (not all) from near death like this and it may also work for you.

Thank you for your info on how to revive my tree. I will try this method and hope she comes back to life. I love this tree.

The good news is that it appears that the scheff was in good shape before its mishap, which increases the odds that a number of leaves will survive if you follow Tropic's suggestions. I'm sure it'll be hard to cut it back that far, but it'll give it the best chance for recovery.

If you have questions about where to cut, just ask. I'm a pruning newbie, but Dave and TOC have plenty of experience.

I would cut back top third of the plants and remove some leaves. You can use those as cuttings to root separately. Will be easier on the plant to revive with reduced leaves. Essentially treating it is a large cutting. Also makes it easier to cover the plant and reduce chances of fungal infection while it is covered. It may still drop a lot of leaves.

Thank you for your help. And yes it was a beautiful big tree, until it fell off the shelf. Thanks, wish me luck.

Lots of luck!