AniaWin, That's why I love GW. You can talk to people that actually have an use the appliances you're considering. I'm personally pretty sensitive to noise. For example, our Kenmore induction range has no fan to cool the oven after use. The induction cooktop fan only turns on when using high heat, and is quiet / unobtrusive enough that I only notice it when it turns on and quickly forget about it. You'd never hear it over a range hood (and if you do, tell me who made your range hood). The convection fan in the oven, on the other hand, is relatively loud and annoying. It turns on when pre-heating the oven and when using any convection settings, and is one of my main dislikes about our range. It doesn't keep me from using the convection settings, but I will turn the oven on using regular Bake so that I don't have to hear the fan once the oven's pre-heated while I finish my prep work, and switch the oven over to Convection Bake once everything's done and ready to go in. I am, admittedly, sensitive to noise. For example, I switched all our bathroom fans out for the quietest I could find, and while they no longer bother me they're still not quiet enough for my tastes.

Ideally, the loudest noise should be the blade tip turbulence from the blower fan blades. This can be reduced at the cook station where space permits by using a remote blower and in-line silencer. The second loudest noise should be hiss from turbulence around the baffles. This cannot be helped, but may vary with baffle design. Unfortunately, in some cases the loudest noise is from an unbalanced motor-fan assembly, and/or insufficient isolation of motor vibration from the house and from the ducting. This type of noise can be easily carried via the ducts. (Of course, a blower in the hood is not isolated at all except by its mounts, and needs to be well balanced. Duct noise proper due to turbulence in the ducts (and here I will include interior hood turbulence at all sectional area transitions), when the duct is properly sized for air speeds in the 1000 - 2000 ft/min range, can compete with, but shouldn't dominate the baffle noise unless the duct path is particularly tortuous. Where one is stuck with a particular motor-fan assembly that appears unbalanced, use of an industrial balancing shop to correct the problem may be appropriate. kas

Actually MUA is not required by Code everywhere, only some areas. Regardless of Code requirements, the OP needs to do MUA with 1200 cfms because that much suckage carries with it the risk of sucking back CO into the house, i.e. backdraft. It's a serious risk because with that much cfms pulling air out of the house, other exhausts will be pulled in, like from the water-heater, furnace, chimney and dryer vent. That backdraft is bringing poisonous carbon monoxide into the home. You can get away with no MUA with an exhaust that is 400-600 cfms and if your house is drafty and not a newer super-insulated house. But not at 1200 cfms. At 1200 cfms, cracking a window will not be enough. You will need to install an MUA system. Either add that to the expense of your renovation, or choose a different cooking setup. People not willing to install MUA is a main reason why people forego the 60" ranges and their exhaust requirements, and opt instead for a 36" rangetop and separate ovens.

Update: The module now works exactly as it should. Apparently the solution was ignoring the printed installation instructions, which were not completely correct, and connecting things based on the matching the old vs. new spark module labels. That'll teach me to read directions! Wire #1 on the input side of our old module actually mapped to location #2 on the input side of the new module, so everything was off-set by one (i.e. output wire #1 went to output slot #2, and so forth).