Im sure the replacements are probably from oregon also. Any new tip growth on skips are always a pale green until they harden off to a dark green. Big difference may be due to a different west coast grower. The root balls that are put on them are almost always undersized for various reasons i dont have time to explain. Which is fine if theyre planted in zone 7 Which we are not. So even still they should live here when planted in spring. Stop watering them and go to the watering schedule i explained. Water again in 10 days from now. Mist the foilage in the morning and maybe 2 hrs prior to sunset if you are insistant on giving them water until the ten day period. Once they seem stabilized you can put down plant tone. Espoma product. As per rates on package. When watering. The hose should be at the distance where the rootball meets the original soil. Slowly trickling so its not running off but going into the soil. It will be a very slow trickle of water. The reason for this is so when the rootball starts to dry. The soil around the plant is still damp and the roots will reach out for moisture. Thus expanding the root system. It is ok to let them dry out. That is why you will double your watering period with every watering. !!!!!!!!!!!!! Remember ocd on plants kills them everytime. They are not aquatics. Were not growing lily pads here. Its an evergreen that needs to get its root system enlargended. I hope to God your guy planting them took the polytwine off of the trunk of the plant. Believe me. Ive seen it all. 21 years now of being a nurseryman. Growing everthing and installing everything from impatiens to grasses to coneflowers to maples. Good luck. Dont dissapoint me. Dumd it down. Its a lot more simple than you think.

@Meyermike(Zone 6a Ma.) Hi Mike! Thank you :-) I will consider a bigger pot next season. ( I think it's in a 14" now) I will be root pruning next spring. We are expected to hit 100 degrees tomorrow!!!! Off to a crazy start this summer already!! Which we dont normally hit until mid June!!! Ugh!!! I don't want to repot it now. I suspected I wasn't watering enough but wanted to be sure. I will try harder to get to it everyday. I have been in a tug of war since Nov. between helping parents and work. The mix does have some cactus and succulent mix in it , so it does hold a little more moisture than a 5-1-1. So I will try watering daily. An emitter is not possible at this time. The tree is in an area with no water line. It's the best place for it as far as day light goes. It is getting some new growth at the bottom which I'm excited about! I want to keep it in a bush form. And yes , fruit.... :-) I can't wait!! I did not get any last year! Thanks again! Hugs! Jojo

it always helps to tell us where you ar.. big city name.. but generally yes.. right now is the time ... my usual suggestion is 6 to 8 weeks before the heat of summer starts to build in july or so ... you dont mention size when planted or any other relevant info ... but generally.. just dig them back out.. maybe 6 inches wider than the gob planted ... presuming you can move them based on size and weight ... it would be best to dig the new hole first to general size.. dig out the plant.. hoik it over there ... throw it in the hole ..... settle it in at proper depth.. run the house on it .. THEN backfill ... hose at half refill level .. then finish refilling ... and you probably wont have to water again until the heat of summer starts pulling water from deep in the soil ....once a month trickle water to water at root depth ... spraying the surface will be useless ... its will be stressed.. not hungry.. never fert a transplant .. except for the hard work.. this is no big deal ...its why they sell all these plants in spring ... because its time to move and plant them ... see link for this.. and planting the new stock .. ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub

Jeff, I’m in Texas, too, and agree with gardengal. Transplant shock. This summer has been so brutal for us, I have the hardiest of plants struggling like they never have before. I’m having to water much more than normal, for even my most established plants (such as my Vitex … have never had to water them once during a normal summer). I would not spray anything possibly harmful on my plants in this scorching heat and sun, except as a last resort with nothing left to lose. These may always struggle in your soil. I’m in D/FW, on the border of acidic and alkaline. From https://www.wildflower.org/expert/show.php?id=7469 ”You will note that the preferred soils are deep, loamy, well-drained soils. Most of the soils in Central Texas are alkaline clay. The soils east of us have more sand and are more acidic. The biggest problem could easily be the drainage or the lack thereof, which might have been helped by mixing the soil in which the cherry laurel was planted with some compost. The issue of chlorosis mentioned in the Growing Conditions above can also be blamed on drainage. Please see this previous Mr. Smarty Plants answer on the problems caused by our soils. We suspect that these native plants are getting more attention than they need. Watering too much can have invited the fungus, as well as compacting the soil so that the nutrients in the soil were not available to the rootlets. Mulching the root area will help protect from heat and cold, and the mulch will decompose to add more compost to the soil. When you water, push the hose down in the soil and let it dribble slowly until water comes to the surface. Don't water by sprinkler-the water on the bark and leaves can invite disease. We may not have the ideal soils for these plants, so if they don't pull out, we suggest researching replacements in our Native Plant Database, checking to make sure they are native to this area and tolerant of our soils.” . It might be worth looking at replacements.